Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

hello,

ive looked around, found tutorials on how to remove the brake pads, then the calipers, but then.. whats next?

also checked in the r32 gtr service manual, couldnt find anything about the studs, only the brake pads.

my car is r32 gts4 turbo,

one i get the caliper off, is there much more to it? im guessing id have to take out the centre pin, unscrew something and perhaps the middle hub would fall off, gaining my access to the studs?

any help would be greatly appreciated

thanks thanks,

shaun.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99457-how-do-i-replace-wheel-studs/
Share on other sites

If GTS4's are like GTR's (and I think they are) there's no need to remove the front hubs to get the studs out and new one's in. Disc and caliper have to come off, of course, but if you look at the backing plate near the hub with the caliper off you will see a small semi-circular cut-out. At first it would appear there's not enough room to get the studs out, but nissan put the cut-out in place to give sufficient room to (just) allow enough room for th studs to slip out at a bit of an angle.

To get the stud out, turn the hub until the one in question is lined up with the cut-out. Then using a reasonably hefty hammer, drive the stud out toward the backing plate. Sometimes that can take quite a bit of force, but be careful not to 'mushroom' the end of stud your striking otherwise you'll make more trouble for yourself. Personally I use a piece of aluminium or brass as a drift which distorts rather than the steel of the stud. Once the stud comes free, angle it out through the cut-out decribed above.

Slip the new stud into place. Since it's difficult to 'drive' the new stud into place because you can't get to the back of it with a hammer, I 'draw' the stud into place using an old wheel nut with the end cone machined off and a spacer. Tightening the nut up with the spacer gradually pulls the stud into place. Another way is to put the wheel on and use that as the 'spacer' and gradually tighten the wheel nut until the stud is seated. If you have a steel wheel for a spare, use that as the steel wheels are a bit thinner at the stud points which gives a bit more thread to use. Whichever way you you choose, go carefully and if you feel any resistance stop and check things. I also use a bit of grease on the threads and contact faces when putting the new stud in which 'helps' things on a bit as well as a bit of insurance against thread galling.

Hope that helps.

To stop the stud mushrooming, put a wheel nut back on the stud about 2/3 of the way onto the nut. Hit the nut instead.

But you need to be careful with the bashing, yuo can damage the wheel bearings if you hit it too hard.

Rears are the same there is a small cut out to let the stud through the hub.

To put the new one in, you put the stud in until it is tight, then put a wheel nut on. As you tighten the net the stud will pull itself into the hub, keep turning until the nut is tight (110nm) and then the stud is in.

BTW this is in the GTR manual I have seen it before.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Hi all, Long time since I've posted here. Looking for some advice on what I can remove to further identify the cause of my issues.  I can move the passenger seat forward and back but the knob used to adjust the seat angle is pretty much free spinning, there's very little resistance.  Removing the side cover I can see that the chain is intact but the shaft for the adjustment spins without the gear attached to it moving.  What's my next step for disassembly here? Is this a common fault? Just being a little cautious as I didn't want to start removing bolts for a spring to fly out or something equally as stupid.  Cheers
    • Those above shitboxes, mediocre and above usually have a turbo strapped to them, hence the slightly higher octane is required.  
    • Hi all,   long time listener, first time caller   i was wondering if anyone can help me identify a transistor on the climate control unit board that decided to fry itself   I've circled it in the attached photo   any help would be appreciated
    • I mean, I got two VASS engineers to refuse to cert my own coilovers stating those very laws. Appendix B makes it pretty clear what it considers 'Variable Suspension' to be. In my lived experience they can't certify something that isn't actually in the list as something that requires certification. In the VASS engineering checklist they have to complete (LS3/NCOP11) and sign on there is nothing there. All the references inside NCOP11 state that if it's variable by the driver that height needs to maintain 100mm while the car is in motion. It states the car is lowered lowering blocks and other types of things are acceptable. Dialling out a shock is about as 'user adjustable' as changing any other suspension component lol. I wanted to have it signed off to dissuade HWP and RWC testers to state the suspension is legal to avoid having this discussion with them. The real problem is that Police and RWC/Pink/Blue slip people will say it needs engineering, and the engineers will state it doesn't need engineering. It is hugely irritating when aforementioned people get all "i know the rules mate feck off" when they don't, and the actual engineers are pleasant as all hell and do know the rules. Cars failing RWC for things that aren't listed in the RWC requirements is another thing here entirely!
    • I don't. I mean, mine's not a GTR, but it is a 32 with a lot of GTR stuff on it. But regardless, I typically buy from local suppliers. Getting stuff from Japan is seldom worth the pain. Buying from RHDJapan usually ends up in the final total of your basket being about double what you thought it would be, after all the bullshit fees and such are added on.
×
×
  • Create New...