Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

muchly asked question no doubt but i cant find much on it. ive been told my gtr is still a while away from being completed, so ive decided to do a gradual build up. the car has everything but turbo/s. i was jus gonna stick some 2530s on it, which my sale of them fell thru!! but now decided i wanna go the big single with alot of power. what im looking for is around 600-650hp at wheels. as per usual, minimal lag is wanted. my engine is fully built, but im yet to get the exact specifications of my cams etc as the guy who built it is away till after new year. it used to run twin gt28's n made 340kw at wheels, but i didnt get turbos with the car. the car is running a motec m800 ecu, which will be tuned by either CRD or CV Performance. CV played part in tuning my brothers torana, which featured in this months street machine aka MR MAD. any help is muchly appreciated.

thnak you, novak.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/99622-which-big-single-r32-gtr/
Share on other sites

Housings , the Garrett marketed edition uses garden variety TO4 P trim turbine housings in a variety of single/twin entry T3 or T4 flange patterns . I think there is a choise of TO4S compressor housings or an "R" ? housing still researching that one .

The HKS edition uses a unique turbine housing in twin entry T4 flange pattern , it is not a true split pulse housing because the divider only goes in a short way .

The compressor cover is a huge thing with a 70mm outlet rather than the usual TO4S housings 60mm outlet . It has a fancy drilled port shroud fitting on the front as well .

There are some people in Perth using them who say that the compressor wheel (TO4R) is not prone to surge and non port shrouded covers work well .

Just to throw some variety into the mix Full Race in the US offer the same compressor with the GT35 turbine (GT3567R) which is a recent development and looks good so far . This turbine is a little smaller than a TO4 P trim and possibly lighter for approx the same exhaust gas flow rate . For the propeller heads the GT35 turbine is a 68mm 84 trim , TO4 P trim is a 74.2mm 76 trim .

I also found mention of a GT4067R which is the GT40 turbine with the TO4R compressor . For some reason the Americans call a compressor by its inlet diameter ie TO4R is 84.2 x 66.7 so it gets called 67 ?

Cheers A .

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Bummer...yeah i "need" something to "ease" up the work and for my driving it would be enough.    Iam counting the tune "without" turbo. I do not mean "cheap" like something from Temu around 200 USD, "Cheap" is something around 1000 USD? 
    • Starter motors used to use the weight of metal (magnets) to provide torque. Now they use (more) current instead. This. It's completely normal.
    • So thing that had me stumped, but I think is OK....is that when it was up in the air, in neutral I had it running to bleed to coolant while I put the wheels back on. I noticed the rears were turning (slowly) which I'd never seen before 20250928_163512.mp4     Because there had been an issue with clutch slip due to pedal adjustment on the dyno, I assumed there was still and issue so spent some quality time upside down under the dash adjusting the pedal....but no matter what I did the wheels still turned in neutral. Even disconnected the master cylinder to pedal rod and same. In despair, I even removed the clutch slave so there was no chance of any preload causing it.....still happened. So either: 1. Something is not right in the bellhousing, or 2. Its a thing sometimes with cold, thick gearbox oil Internet says it might be 2, I hope so!
    • OK, few more things sorted and it is ready for a shakedown on 10-Oct, with one weird thing. Changed the run in oil and filter for the good stuff. 8l came out, about 8.5 went in with filter so that looks all good. Changed the starter (again), this time for a brand new one, works good. Interesting that the Taaaarks one is shorter than factory but spins harder, I guess electronics have moved on a little in the last 30 years. Will be nice to have a bit of extra space under there. Put the timing cover back on, and noted where the cam gears were set as a record.  Will need to double check the timing but it is pretty close. Also put the coil pack cover and intake snorkel back on. Exhaust Inlet Changed the water out for coolant, bled up nicely. Removed the rear brake pads (well worn factory sumitomo ones!), gave the hardware a good clean and reassembled. I've put bendix XP on the back again because the price is excellent at $150 a set and they worked well on the V37. Front pads have plenty so no issue there
×
×
  • Create New...