Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

btw.. I made 164rwkw which is 221hp on 1 bar of boost.

Its not just about peak power its the mid range that gets you there so the RB25DET will be quicker in accelerating to the peak power.

Considering though the RB20DET does do extremly extremly well in the power department. Especially considering the RB25DET has VCT, bigger turbo, higher static comp ratio etc..

  • Replies 67
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Just to throw some spice into the conversation, my CA18DET did 214rwhp fully tuned with an SAFC etc, and my RB20DE does 120rwhp with no tuning, no oilchange running 95RON fuel :)

its not about displacement sometimes...

Snoop, are you doing the conversion yourself? If you are then i'd honestly put about $2500 aside for things such as timing belt, fuel pump, filter, oil, sparkies etc. Second of all, you will need to do something about the sump hitting on the sway bar and the clearance of the engine ie hitting the roof. Are you good with wiring? If not then put aside about 300 at least for getting someone to do the wiring and adjusting. If you already have a sr20det then stick with it. I promise you you'll be better off.

The front cover turned out to be stock aswell, I originally thought it was a VG30 item but that would mean it would be smaller than the RB25.

The turbo is still running fine after two and a half years( with a greddy cooler which I think increases its life)

I am having it rebuilt because a friend of mine was helping me pull it to bits and snapped my turbine off the shaft with a badly aimed hammer....=(

Rebuild specs b4 u ask are

compressor- T04B V trim

top 52mm

major 72mm

VG30 .7 A/R exhaust housing and turbine

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Price seems pretty good to me. Also seems a hell of a lot cheaper then buying another vehicle that only ever gets used for towing.  I'm a long way from you mate, I'm a couple of hours out of Brizzy. 
    • New [400]Z, they're available in manual and you don't have to worry about parts scarcity. 
    • Just planning to have the wiring neat and hide as much as possible.
    • The sodium acetate, mixed with citric acid, doesn't actually buffer each other. Interestingly though, if you used Sodium Acetate, and acetic acid, THAT becomes a buffer solution. Additionally, a weak acid that can attack a metal, is still a weak acid that can attack a metal. If you don't neutralise it, and wash it off, it's going to be able to keep attacking. It works the same way when battery acid dries, get that stuff somewhere, and then it gets wet, and off it goes again breaking things down. There's a reason why people prefer a weak acid, and it's because they want TIME to be able to be on their side. IE, DIY guys are happy to leave some mild steel in vinegar for 24 hours to get mill scale off. However, if you want to do it chemically in industry, you grab the muriatic acid. If you want to do it quicker at home, go for the acetic acid if you don't want muriatic around. At the end of the day, look at the above thumbnail, as it proves what I said in the earlier post, you can clean that fuel tank up all you want with the solution, but the rust that has now been removed was once the metal of the fuel tank. So how thin in spots is your fuel tank getting? If the magazine on the left, is the actual same magazine as on the right, you'll notice it even introduces more holes... Well, rust removal in general actually does that. The fuel tank isn't very thick. So, I'll state again, look to replace the tank, replace the fuel hanger, and pump, work out how the rust and shit is making it past the fuel filter, and getting into the injectors. That is the real problem. If the fuel filter were doing its job, the injectors wouldn't be blocked.
    • Despite having minimal clothing because of the hot weather right now, I did have rubber gloves and safety glasses on just in-case for most of the time. Yes, I was scrubbing with my gloves on before, but brushing with a brush removes the remaining rust. To neutralize, I was thinking distilled water and baking soda, or do you think that would be overkill?
×
×
  • Create New...