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Water Cooled (chiller) Setup

T-Rex

By T-Rex,
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T-Rex Enthusiast

T-Rex

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Hey Guys,

I have been playing around for a few weeks with my first water cooling setup. I had no clue what I was doing when I ordered all the parts but everything turned out pretty good! I like to do things a bit differently so I went with an aquarium chiller in place of a radiator. These are not for the faint hearted, there is a decent sized fan to keep the compressor and condenser coil cooled. The overall sound level is less than a single GPU's fans at full speed though. Its also bigger than my Bitfenix Prodigy case.. Just!

Ok so the basics of my setup are as follows;

EK Supremacy EVO Elite cooling an i7 4790K

EK FC780 cooling a single Gigabyte 780Ti Windforce OC

XSPC D5 Photon 270 reservoir/pump combo

TECO TK500 Aquarium chiller

You can use a much cheaper chiller than the one I opted for, but I figured a quality one will last longer and handle the "different" usage of trying to cool an overclocked gaming PC!

In terms of overclocks I'm pretty happy with the results. My CPU is a poor overclocker and I couldn't get a stable clock above 4400MHz using a Corsair H100i but I managed a stable 4800MHz clock using the aquarium chiller. This took 1.45V core voltage and temperatures were higher than I wanted, 70-80 degrees under sustained full load. But 1.45V with the H100i hit 100 degrees in literally 1 second and crashed the PC! I tried higher than 4800MHz clock but it crashed and I think it was because the maximum multiplier is 48. After that you have to adjust frequency? Not too sure. I have settled on a 4600MHz overclock at 1.35V to keep the temperature lower.

On to the GPU, Gigabyte factory overclocked the 780Ti to 1020MHz. I have pushed that to 1160MHz and I see a permanent boost clock of 1315MHz due to running so cool! That's almost 100MHz more than I saw on air while I was regularly reaching 80-85 degrees where the boost clock would drop.

I normally run the coolant temps at around 25-30 degrees but can go as low as 10-15 degrees while gaming but there is no benefit with my overclocks.

I will get some pictures up as soon as I can, they won't be pretty as it's still in test setup but should give you some idea of what's been done. I do plan on running SLI graphics and I think that will be the limit of my small chiller, I calculate its capacity at roughly 450-500W.

Throw some questions at me or call me stupid, whatever you desire. I had very little information on doing this so maybe someone on there could benefit if they ever wanted to try this out.

Power consumption is about 100W. The unit uses 220W but only runs for 25 minutes of the hour. More than a normal radiator and fan setup but not enough to be worried about.

cheers,

Shaun

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Cowboy1600 Grand Master

Cowboy1600

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On a side note, my Corsair (h80i I think) leaked while the cheap Coolermaster 120V is still going strong.

So disappointed in Corsair.

I've got a H100 and it's powering along. Had it for probably 15 months or so.

I didn't bother measuring pre and post temps but gut feeling is it runs probably 10-15 lower than on air and a lot mroe stable, ie. no big spikes when pushing it really hard.

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T-Rex Enthusiast

T-Rex

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I found with CPU cooling that unless you de-cap it you will never get the low temps you can achieve at the GPU. I have not de-capped a CPU before and I don't think its really worth it as some CPU's just wont overclock well even if temps are good! Years ago I had a CPU at minus 30 degrees under idle and under full load was at 10 degrees. Luckily that CPU was a good overclocker (i7 920 stock 2.66GHz, 4.8GHz overclocked and stable) I then used a i7 930 which is 2.8GHz stock but couldn't get a stable overclock above 4.5GHz.

As for the H100i, I had no issues with it. I know they had an issue with them leaking when they were in sub zero temps in the airplanes that were delivering them.

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