Predator1

Remove turbo. Problem solved

Dont forget to use 2 1.8mm head gaskets.. and paint them red, as the red provides more sealing and raises the CR, which is what you want if you want to run 2.8bar poost. Also, weld the input shaft straight to the crank, and run flyspray as coolant.

I see, okay, so I think the best option then is to directly run a -12 fuel line and inject it straight in the turbine housing. We usually do that on very high powered Skylines... better known as an afterburner.

The only real way to fix it is to do a Nitto 3.2 conversion and a 9180 with a 1.45 exhaust housing. Dont forget to get a Hypertune FMIC. That way it should be able to spool real easy.

I'm 100% in.

Not trying to cause flames, but my 2c, save up and go for a sequential(Samsonas or Albins). This is what I'm doing. Sure it costs, but peace of mind in the long run.

Hey mate, this is brilliant! I am in the market for 1 piece shaft. silly question- how do we specify what gearbox etc?

Any pics?

Interesting.. I know the older style Albins needed tunnel mods, but I also heard that the new ones don't need any tunnel mods?

Hi, Does anyone here run an Albins sequential box in their R32 GTR? If so, did you have to modify the tunnel at all? Hard to find people running these transmissions. Also, any feedback in general about the Albins will be good.

What kit did you order? I got the 378mm front and 355mm rears

I'm not sure, It was apparently the top of the link from memory. Either way, not bagging the pads here. Just sharing my experience on the stock brakes. I was running brand new fluid too, bled(inc ABS). The fronts are CAR97 and rears are CAR98. What wheels are you running?

Cheers for the help guys. I ordered the 378mm fronts and 355mm rears. I have a forged 3.2 coming to life soon in my 32R so dont want to be relying on the stock shitutomo's. For comparions sake, I put new oem rotors(4), braided brake lines, new lines and QFM pads, and encountered lots of brake fade in a small circuit.. Lost brakes pulling up from a mere 210k.. Lets hope I dont have to upgrade the BMC.

Seeing that you're going from a high to lower offset wheel, I would suspect they would rub a bit more. What's your ride heigt and camber?

Mind if I ask what your setup is like? RB26? How often do you topup your tank? Failsafe's?

+22, I think thats a more common offset for R32 GTR's?

What rims and brakes do you have?

I was thinking 9.5+? I currently run Nitto 265/35/18's, so ideally I'd like them to be a comfy fit. Maybe 10 ideally. I should mention my cars rideheight's 355mm both front and back(Dont like overly lowered). Are you running 6 deg's of castor?

Hi guys, I'm pricing up a Alcon 6 piston 378mm kit. They wont fit my current wheels, and my plan is to get 18 inch TE37's. Question I have is: * What's a good offset for a 18 inch TE37 on an R32 GTR? * Will the brakes fit? I guess that depends on the offset! *What's the biggest brakes you can run on a set of 18 inch TE37's? What offset? * Is there anyone that runs TE37's on their's? I have a template that I was given if anyone would be kind enough to print off and measure?? (Attached) Thanks. CAR97.378BL.R32.33-skyline.pdf

Not as far as I know. Re ex manifold, I'm going with 6boost, who seem to be pretty deceent.

Mate that is EXACTLY the kind of info I was after. Did you have to drill the hubs at all? How much work was it to install? Was it actually bolton? I dont care if i have to trim/bend the cover at the back, but I dont really want to drill the hubs out, which is the primary reason for not going with R34 brembo's.

Hey thanks for that man. How long have you had that kit on? Thoughts? Does it pull up well on the track? Brake fade? What pads? Do you have the same size kit that I mentioned(365mm fronts)?

Hi, I've been discussion on and off for BBK options with Brakes Direct. I've bought some pads off them in the past, and I have to say, that they are very responsive and approachable, so big thumbs up to them. Has anyone used their Forza floating rotors at all? They use Alcon calipers which is very impressive too. They offered a Front(365/32 with 6 piston CAR97 calipers) and Rear(335/28 with 4 piston CAR36 Calipers) kit for my 32R and just wondering really if you guys have any feedback on their BBK's at all? Thanks.

The general consensus is that aftermarket front diffs do have a tendency to twist the blocks more. As such, having a proper brace along with billet caps seems to keep that issue at bay. I personally prefer the billet brace from RIPS, however it is expensive - Although if you're pushing 11-1200hp then I would recommend that over the prp braces(Not that they're inferior, but mainly a personal choice as I'm running the RIPS kit). As for your original question, I'm not sure you want to try and find out how long that piece of string is do you?

This. I still remember the nut in the corner of the rear turbo. Probably took me 1/2 day to figure out how to get it off. In the end i bought a small spanner(i think 12?) and grinded the corners. Also, not a big thing, but lining up the water/oil lines was a bit of a pita as well. If you have friends it would def help. Also look at replacing all the gaskets and washers at the same time. Personally, if i was doing that again, I'd rather pay someone!!! Its a fkn pita, esp in a tiny garage on axle stand only!