Ben C34

Have you looked at the rb25 results thread and seen anyone make that power with stock injectors? Or ask your tuner?

5v. Wouldn't it be heaps easy to try leading then falling edge if it doesn't work?

It's m10 x 1.25. (Check for yourself though) You can use a helicoil set to repair the threads.

Running the correct amount of dust through an engine stops the bores from glazing. Fact.

Yes. If you have a problem caused by an unsuitable item it is their responsibility to rectify it. Just email them. How hard could it be?

Or put the correct amount of oil (not much) onto them. Heaps of people use them no worries.

You have a consult port that uses the consult interface. It is not obd2 . It's consult. They won't work.

You talking about the factory narrow band vs a wide band? They are are different type of sensor..... Anyway, I'm sure if I could be bother ed I could work out the time it takes for the exhaust to travel a meter inside your exhaust pipe at say 4000rpm, but I'm so sure it would be such a miniscule amount of time it wouldn't matter to anyone. Being able to put the sensor into the factory location is slightly helpful for mounting it, but ad far as accuracy and speed goes I don't think there would be any noticeable difference in wither location. The factory narrow band sensor is closer as it has to be warmed up by the exhaust. Not for accuracy.

Because it's a different type of sensor.....

I hardly think response time would change being closer, or accuracy for that matter. If that was the case the dyno o2 sensor in the tailpipe would be virtually unusable.

Ok so same injectors? That sounds pretty bad. A leak right at the head face might make an odd noise but that sounds different. I would still pressure test asap.

What do you mean changed fuel? Have you pressure tested the plenum and pipework?

So in in Rons case it would go Nistune, sell Power fc sell Adaptronic ??? Profit?

Yes. It's based on many things you have posted. For example. You specified how exactly you were going to block up your bov return. And did it weirdly anyway. Someone who knows what they are doing just does stuff. I do really hope you can get the car sorted out.

Can Ron do it? f**k no.

You can't do it without a timing belt. Water pumps are cheap as. The rb30 oil pump is fine. Shim the relief valve for free. And I tuned it on the dyno.

Same here. Stock bottom end untouched. All up less than 700 including oil etc for everything including retune. Took a whole week working on it a bit after work. Not what I would call built though, as it's untouched. But.... I know what I'm doing.... can set timing etc Can't really see the point building one when a 200 buck engine does aso well!

There is a way to ensure the exhaust scavenge system works, even though it's pointless, is to put the venturi pretty much at the end of the exhaust, the last 300 mm or so where there can't be back pressure.

It's pretty hard to tell who is retarded around here, and based on what you wrote in your first post I would have thought what I wrote was helpful. Good luck with it.

Tell them it's fully sick. RB engine. Everyone knows rb. Even if they don't it sounds cool. You want cop attention or teenager attention? I think it's the same thing.

Ok. I am picking Page 50 engine dead.

Man you are such a wet blanket sometimes. Can't you see Ron is having fun while learning by taking random guesses and messing with stuff randomly. A wideband would just cost money and then instantly pay itself off once you factor in the time saved being wasted and worrying about stuff. Ron is having fun. He loves it. Don't ruin it with useful tools that will speed up the fault finding.

If you really want crankcase vacuum get a vacuum pump.

I think its silly. Also vac relief is pointless. No way will it draw too much vacuum. Is your car registered or track only?

Yes there is. Altering cam timing alters power delivery. No matter what cams