driftmeister

Hi Can i change my name from need4speed to driftmeister Been using this in my other forum logins..many thanks & cheers!

Hi Jmac Im using the same size tyre as ur for my front but my rear is 265/35/18 with 34GTR original rims on my GTT. wondering whether the rear will be too narrow (Easily spin the wheel) if i gone with the same size like u to compare with my existing tyre combination. The reason is i intend to purchase a grippier tyre but the 265/35/18 is way off my budget. Now contemplating whether i should use a narrower size with better grip tyre or go for cheaper but wide. In terms of balance and handling for FR, which would u reckon to be a better choice? Thanks for ur help in advance...cheers!

Many thanks for the feedback. Wanted to bite the bullet & get the 615 out of curiousity. Went to the shop to get it replace, to my amusement they're all sold out. Not sure when the next shipment coming cause Falken is holding the stock in my country. Not sure what the reason is about but may end up with T1R in the end. Have to wait for few day/weeks atm. Keep u guys posted on my final purchase. Cheers!

Thanks guys for the advice and very true i could save quite a lot of money. I just notice the treadwear for Neova is 180 and the RT 615 is 200. Surprisingly the Neova is lower. Toyo T1R is 280. Is that a big difference between the separation of 80? What is the average life of Ultra High Performance tyre in km's if used as a daily driven & no track days at all? I'm trying to understand whether the choice of tyre is to be purchase should be more for enjoyment of spirited driving of 20,000km (more smiles on your face) or distance usage of 40,000km (probably half the smile)? Let just say the price factor for the higher performance tyre is 25% more. Which would you choose? Many thanks in advance and sorry if im too long windered. Cheers!

I don't quite understand about heat cycle of tyre meant. Can anyone explain this? My car is a daily driver, lotsa stop & go traffic and see very little long journey trip. But i do highway runs & twist back roads every weekends . Anyone reckon the RT 615 or Neova AD07 would be more suitable?

Hi Dafuca Thankx for the advice. Im modding gradually to PFC, boost controller and FMIC very soon. So i probably reckon it's best to have the rear grippier. SO far im happy with the T1R = quiet, grippy & very assuring in the wet. I have sat in other cars using ADO7 & RE-01R, i must admit that they have no problem with launching and leap frog off the line. If given a choice, which would you go for RT 615 or AD07?

Hi everyone, Been using Toyo T1R for the front (235/40/18) for 3-4 months, so far the handling is great, quiet and still has a lot of tread depth left. But my rear is needs changing cause i bought 2nd hand DNA GP 265/35/18 & been using for 5 months or so. Has anyone experience the FALKEN RT 615 before? Thats gonna be my next purchase for the rear but wish to downsize to 235/40 or 245/40 due to the price factor. Are they very noisy? Heard tread life is 200. There is many good reviews on this tyre. My other option would be a ADVAN NEOVA AD07. Which do you all reckon be a better buy? btw the 265/35/18 for Toyo T1R is the same price as the 235/40/18 for FALKEN. I need another basic advice whether i should put the grippier tyre in front or rear? I don't track the car at all but do like to drag race from traffic lights & highway sprints.

Hi Guys, Just wondering how does Justjap cooler compare to the original R34 GTR? I know i have to do the piping anyhow, how much HP can the GTR ones take? Appreciate everyones feedback...Cheers!

Hi SK I really appreciate your great feedback on this thread. Sorry to bring slightly out of topic, wonder does R34 GTR Vspec original shock & spring fit well on ER34 GTT 2 door? I wish to get it more sporty for spirited driving than stock setup without sacrificing comfort. Got a good price for it from buddy. The spec are : Stock R34 V-spec suspension: Spring rate: F 4.0 kgf/mm. R 5.0 kgf/mm. Shock compression rate: F 110 kgf. R 77 kgf. Shock decompression rate: F 267 kgf. R 125 kgf. Appreciate ur advice. Cheers!

Hi guys I am interested to get the C's but heard short shift is not good for the gearbox for long term usage. Let me know if that's true or false. Driving a R34 GTT and the gearchange throw is pretty long. Thank you in advance for your advice.

It's been a month half since i fixed my misfiring problem and car still drives like a dream with no hiccup. One thing my friends notice while following behind is that my exhaust spits fire while upshift and sometime when i downshift (heel & toe). Looks great and sure scare quite a number of people to stay way behind! hehehe Now i want to install Electronic Bosst controller, wonder upping the boost may bring back the misfiring problems espescially in 3rd or 4th? Since i am currently enjoying the pedal to the metal feeling right now. What is a safe boost for R34GTT before the misfiring happens? I was told to install FCD (Fuel Cut Defencer). Would this help to avoid any misfiring? Appreciate everyone's advice.

My mechanic had something like the handheld Nissan Consult, but different type that can check other car makes too. Another way is to use the timing light but i have never tried that before myself. I heard NEO engines need to unplug a socket for throttle sensor (i think) before doing the timing but my mech just advance without unplug anything. The reading was showing 11 deg on the Consult which is way too low & advance to around 15 deg +. Felt great after that....

I too wanted to get Splitfires but if i order from my local supplier it will cost me RM$ 3500 (malaysia currency) per set, equavalent to around $1000 AUS dollar. Not worth it. Sell at $60-80 eah also will make ur mates happy, the smile on their face after fixing the problem is PRICELESS! Check ur timing yet? idling will be better if set correctly, just the 4-5k rpm will misfire. Better than jerky traffic lights idling.

Been almost a week & a half, all smooth & power still there. No misfiring at all. Pls check you timing, may help a bit since retard basically give a low sparks so the injectors lean out the spark plugs. Mine is current arount 15 to 20 degree advance. Engine felt light and effortless to drive now. Splitfires would be great but the managed to get 2nd hand replacement for 1 pc only around $50 . Well worth it considerng i've been suffering this for almost 5 months!!. Booya hope you get ur replacement soon but if you have a friend who you can loan 1 coil pack to just check which is faulty then u know u can keep the good ones for future or probably sell to some mates of yours.

This time finally solved. After 3-4 hours checking, changing back to my HKS plug, adjsted timing (mine was almost max retard), then the idling became better / more stable but still misfire during 4-5k rpm. disconnected my car alarm cause there are wires join to the RPM for the immobiliser. Remove all coil pack then exchange one by one. Finally found it to be Coil Pack problem and guess what...its coil 3 too. My mechanic seem to have a spare so now all is smooth & rev happy to redline. I hear that 34GTR coil pack are the same. is that true cause the part no for splitfire are diferent for GTT & GTR. Anyone know whether GTR ori coil pack is also the same? Jaffri

My problem came back and idling suffer quite badly. So i upgraded the battery to a higher capacity. But still the same also. Looks like i have to get the Splitfire Coil Pack. Will try to regap the plug first and see how it goes.

My voltage now stays at 13.8-13-9 with a/c ON and audio OFF. Will drop to 13.6-13.7 with audio ON. That's when the misfiring start again on idle. Planing to change the battery to a bigger capacity (60 or 70). Check Alternator charging & seem ok + healthy. U guys reckon its the battery size?

Hi Booya It was me mentioning about the battery change. Anyway i am going to upgrade the battery to a bigger type (NS 60 intead of 40) than the originals. I only hv few misfire for the past one week & that happens whe the audio player is on. Many people advice me not to regap plugs, I should be getting those that has already pre-gap from factory. Anyone can help meon this cause i want to refit my HKS Iridiums S35i again.

Think it is Motul 300V synthetic 15w-50. Engine feels lite & no sense of strain. Idling is PURRRfect for a 6 cyclinder car.

Im using Motul 300V synthetic 10w-50. Comes in 4 litre pack...u need 2 with balance for next service.

Hi Booya Your Optima batt seem to be the premium type so it may not be the problem, mine was NS40, maybe too small & probably will get the NS60. But it's good to just try driving awhile without using unnecessary electrical accessories to test whether ur batt / alternator is not the problem. Today is almost a week and the misfiring has gone almost completely. Slight misfire (higher RPM only) happen yesterday nite, probably the cool weather. Tonight i tried turning the player with just the rear standard speakers (applifier disconneted with fuse out). So far is ok & the car pull strongly. Regards Boost, don't u have the center 3 meter gauges? Boost os on the closest right to you. Normally stardard boost is around 0.6-0.7 bar. If you have boost controller, it should show on the screen, which type did you get?

Trust & HKS cooler placement is the same which is in front of the radiators, i prefer the Trust for it's looks (Blue) and hose clamps are quality ones. which coilovers did you buy? I have 3 options to choose & still haven't decided:- 1) Nismo S-Tunes 2) Bilstein shocks with Eibach springs 3) Bilstein BTS kit So far this are acceptable damper/spring rates for real world roads conditions. Regards my misfiring, I was advice to upgrade the battery to S60 or S70 size to provide more stable power when i use my audio amp. Currently using S40 size (smallest & compact). Hope this cures the problem for good until i get my Splitfires. Cheers Bro!

Mine is a manual and PFC looks like a good buy as a standalone ECU. Most importantly is the tune. I was offered HKS FCon Vpro, quite expensive, cost is inclusived with Japanese guy (Auto Select) flown in to tune on the road. Advantage is the A/F can be set & whatever boost u run, it will be stay exactly as set. Gonna get the Splitfires as standby unit, EBC and Intercoolers before i up the boost. Try getting the oil coolers, it's one of the best investment so far for me. No matter how hard you run the engine, it will still be on the first clik on the Oil Temp meter (80-90C).

I tried removing the Fuse for the audio amp then switching on my player with just the rear original speaker. The player power is connect to the original wiring. The engine miss came back again, but stop when i switch off the player. A/C & lights was on at the same time. My voltage is at 13.8 - 14 volt through out the test and i check the charging of the alternator which was fine. U reckon the audio guys who fix my car screw u something? My mods so far is Blitz airfilter, Blitz 3" downpipe, HKS Drager 3" Exhaust, Pivot Volt stabilizer, Trust Oil Cooler. I am very keen to use the Ultimate but the price is quite close to a PowerFC. Any good things to say about the Ultimate and was it easy to tune by urself? Hv u dyno yet? I was told to change the ECU first instead of Turbo upgrade since i can maximise the usage of the boost up from the ori turbo atm & still be on the safe limit.

Thanks for the part no. info. I am gonna run my car for awhile to enjoy the drive again since i managed to fix the misfiring atm. Intend to buy a boost controller, any recommendation. I'm looking at the Blitz Id (latest) or HKS, but the HKS is kinda pricey and wonder is it any better to pay so much. Good to know another GTT owner as we will suffer the same problems everynow and then. What other mods have you done to the car so far?