Guilt-Toy

Yes Trent is right! The issue with E85 is the cost of the replacement tank lining. I was told it costs 40 GRAND per tank upgrade so as you can imagine who is going to spent that kinda cash on a upgrade that will not return the money for at least 5 - 10 years ? It is also a legal requirement to have this upgrade to be able to stock E85. Wait till holden brings out E85 flex. Things will change very fast. My RB30DET ran out of injectors with Nismo 740cc at around 345 - 350 rwkw (mainline dyno) There is plenty of info on my E85 thread about this stuff.... worth the read.

it was sold for $900.

maybe not.... I will PM you some instructions to try gL3nJaMiN88

I know this thread is years old but Better to bring it back from the dead then to create another thread. Anyone have any more experience with the stock valve springs on rb25det with bigger cams? I am using the Kelford 264's with 9.5mm lift. I run RB30DET and keep the revs below 7100rpm and have not had any dramas with 2 bar and over 374kw at wheels but i do realise the bigger cams will be much harsher on the springs and could cause some issues. Should i just replace the springs at the same time or just give the cams a go with stock springs?

Take your oil line off and take photos of the feed going into the turbocharger. I want to see the banjo and the bolt that goes through it. Also make sure the size of the holes are visable in the pics.

I had a issue with mine after a rebuild. I found that I accidently put on the wrong engine fan. The one i put on was from a R31 skyline and it was a different design to the RB25 one and it caused heating up to about 98 deg on normal running. Also make sure you have bleed the cooling system correctly. ask if you are unsure how to do this. It is also good to do it when the front of the car is jacked up as high as you can go. if your running thermo fans make sure they are turning the correct way also

have not heard anything yet.

and they are a bitch to pull out without the correct tool.

if you guys are noticing more knock then try and remember the type of fuel you put in your car last. I always found that Caltex made my car knock like crazy and optimax / v-power was not much better but it was better. When i switched back to BP Ultimate 98 or Mobil Synergy 8000 it would go back to normal. give this a try

take the turbino off and replace the gaskets and check condition of turbo - then put it back together. dont worry about the grinding noise untill you check condition of turbo.. ticking noise is the exhaust leak

http://www.tweakit.net/shop/product_info.p...1ven206ei62jk95 $850 for a set of rb30 rods

you should use ACL race series bearings. a set of arp rod bolts and chuck it together with the stock nissan pistons with new standard rings. they are much better then the acl pistons you have mentioned. balance it as well, rb30's dont like to rev at the best of times so a quick cheap balance will do some good. as long as you keep detonation away from the engine then it will be fine for over 300rwkw

hahhahaa! your tune is fine. they don't call him Godzilla for nothing I used to let go of the throttle a little when its about to hit limiter, wheels are spinning anyway so its only going to make the limiter bash a little less savage and after you practice this for a while you will get better and better and the engine light will stop flashing all together.

knocking when the engine is smashing the rev limiter is completly normal. every car is different - knock sensors are in different condition and engine makes different noises to other engines. with my car it would knock badly on the rev limiter when i had the power fc. other engines don't. i would not worry about it. That goes for you too Dr Doof. if its knock when your hitting the limiter then forget it if it knocks before the rev limiter cuts in then you should worry. think about it.. all hell is happening in the cyl's when the rev limiter is working... what do you expect it to do? sing a lilaby ? and also the engines are more prone to knock when its at MBT. so with your turbo that would be around 3500rpm. Call Marc and he will explain it to you

timing issues with twin cam 3 litres are a pain in the ass. keep trying. it took me months and months to fix my engine over a year ago... I ended up doing the timing many times and found the engine made the best power with the cam gears set to 0, you can try to put 2 x cam gears on and setting everything to 0 and test to start this. after this then try and move them around for more power. First try and get it in stock position. To give you an idea, i gained a extra 50 - 60kw at the wheels after fixing this cam timing issue, was a major head f**k but i was very happy when i finally managed to fix it. From memory mine was allways out on both the inlet and exhaust side. it was only very minimal and did not look like it was far off but it did make a major difference in power!

engine is screwed

oldie but goodie.. 2002 this was from..... and croydon were tuning the power fc with the hand controller.. very very old school video indeed

AFM can make lots more power then this. Running a 044 pump with 70psi base pressure?

how about posting that info here?

don't let John @ UAS see this thread.. he will get angry

have you reset the power fc to stock settings? if you are unsure how, look at pauls power fc faq

i would give you mine but it was released with a auto!

cbeck your intercooler pipes for leaks. check all hoses are connect correctly. if it means to remove them all and put them back one by one then so be it.

my engine lines up to the second mark on the harmonic balancer as tdc, has been like this for years

why did you choose this ecu ? thats such a yankie thing to do