muzziak

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Selling a KLS power spirit turbo that fits directly onto the stock rb25det manifold. Has a 0.63 rear housing so it's nice and quick spooling, great upgrade. zero shaft play in turbo and has twin scroll compressor wheels, in great condition. Chasing $450ono, located Sydney

I have the walbro 460 and I can't hear it at all. Actually quieter then my old 255, both quiet though

I'm not sure about a pressure test but I know the tuner smoke tested it.

Nah a yellow one

Incase you're still looking, there's someone selling a modified Auto 34 Gtt on drift sales on Facebook

I was planning to do that sometime this week, I'll report back when it's done. Thanks for the help guys

Yeah that was the thought, didn't think there would be a 50kW difference. I did change the intercooler, went up from the 67mm to the JustJap 76mm core, but no didn't get the chance to Measure the differences. I have a Power FC so not sure about the IAT sensor ? I'm planning to fit the actuator soon and bump up the boost to 20 (apparently I don't need a tune with the new actuator) but a bit lost from there on

Well that's depressing, that's the power I was looking for, around the 280-290 mark, i don't think a neo would make 50kW difference would it ? Yeah I have, he's sent over another actuator that's rated at 23psi, waiting to put that on

Also could him saying the actuator playing up and sometimes 'sticking' restricting 20psi be valid ?

Not really to be honest, it picks up quite well around 3000-3500rpm. I have a 3" turbo back with an empty cat, so I'm stumped. The car drives well so I dont think the tunes out of whack, so recommendations would be forget cams and look at the behavior/condition of the engine itself ?

Why do any of us modify our cars ?Thanks Kiwi, I did actually, he's the one who said cams, apparently "minimum 20kW from where I am", hence why I've asked. Just getting ideas

Yeah E85 is the easiest option, unfortunately the most costly. Anyone think cams will be worth it ?

Hey guys, recently had my car (33 with a rb25det) tuned at Unigroup and reached 256kW at 18psi with the following mods; -PFC -FMIC with 76mm core -3" turbo back exhaust -hypergear ATR43-SS2 .82 rear -Z32 afm on a custom 80mm alloy intake -split fire coil packs -Denso 550cc injectors -walbro 460 fuel pump Tried tuning at 20psi but apparently the actuator wouldn't hold up and would play around, sometimes holding 20psi sometimes dropping to 16-18 towards the end so stayed with 18psi. I now have a stronger 23psi rated actuator to install, apart from putting that in and up'ing the boost, what do you recommend to get closer to the 300kW mark ? Thanks in advance

lol I liked that terry. Thanks guys, all done, turned out great !

lol always so belittling on most posts I've read Ben, relax a bit. Thanks guys, will get onto it tonight.

Was thinking of using degreaser to clean it, and get some heat proof paint, give it a spray, then let it sit in front of the heater for a while. Go for a few coats and done Would that suffice ?

Hey guys, got a aluminum intake pipe, wanted to painted it a matte black. Have read that it's a bit of a hassle to do so, has anyone done it or care to part any info like on what needs to be done ? Thanks in advance

I assumed it was coming from the pump, just wanted to grab a second opinion on how often new pumps decide to fail. Old pump was leaking, got it pressure tested and that was the issue, so it was changed. Thank you

Hey guys, have a 33 gtst with rb25det in there, all the usual bolt on mods that are needed. Got my water pump and timing belt all done about 2-3 months ago because my water pump was on its way, and since then have had no dramas. However last night on the drive on, temps went over 100 degrees and when I opened the engine bay coolant absolute EVERYWHERE. Figured that once the car warms up and the thermo opens, there isn't a leak, it's literally like a tap has opened and whatever's in the system just pours out. Checked hoses, despite being old are not cracked, it seems to be coming from the bottom of the water pump, but it's been recently changed so I have no idea. Any ideas ? Thanks in advance

Hey guys, spoke to unigroup and they offer and recommend something like a diagnostics check before a tune, where they check for air leaks, voltages, ignition timing and stuff like that for $150. What do people think, worth it or no need ?

If it got 262kW out of a 21U at 17psi, what do you think a SS2 at 18psi with usual bolt ons would achieve ?

No that isn't me unfortunately

Anyone remember when the SS2 reached 20psi ? It was a while back and couldn't find it. Currently can't decide between the SS2 or new ATR45

Oh so run in the engine rather than the turbo, makes sense