GTS-t VSPEC

Interested in the Pod Filter, will you ship to Perth ?

+1, that's what I have in my track car We shimmed it up, so it's tighter

Thanks Rhys, I'm hoping to get SAUWA involved in helping Pit Crew for the car once I get it finished, so we can have a car representing the club

Yeah, the cops noticed it didn't have much interior, and a half cage, but didn't believe me about the coffee either

Looks like there was still some improvement in time from a better launch, great run though

WEIGHT REDUCTION DOORS AND BOOT WIRING Spent some of the weekend ripping out the remaining wiring from the drivers and passenger doors, and whilst I was doing that the alarm system came out too. The only thing left to do is determine whether I want to cut the door up to remove the side intrustion bar. Wish I had a plasma cutter Started putting alot of the excess wiring from the boot. With both the A-LSD and HICAS already removed, there was still a heap of wiring which had just been cable-tied up, so with a bit of trepidation about what I might accidentally cut, I started tracing back from all the plugs which weren't connected. The job is surprisingly easy, but take alot of time just unravelling all the electrical tape, before you can even detemine what can be removed. The best bit is the car still starts, so I obviously haven't cut anything too important PICTURES Passenger Door Wiring Drivers Door Wiring Alarm Wiring

If you want to strip out your car, then do as I'm doing Rip out all the interior and remove the glass from the windows

Just got my fire extinguishers re-tagged, just need to install into the Zed and we're all ready

I've been to the pits a reasonable number of times (7), and I know how much time and effort can be required to get even mildly modded cars past. Still only my personal opinion, but wouldn't want James to end up with a car he can't license,

Now that I've seen the car, I totally agree with Driftt, don't buy it, unless you're happy to spend months trying to get it engineered, which will probably require you removing all the bits that make it different.

WEIGHT REDUCTION - DOORS So one of the best places to remove some excess weight is from the driver and passenger side doors. Having already removed the speakers a few years ago, there are still plenty of bits and pieces are still in there left to remove, from solenoids for the alarm system (to open and close the doors remotely), to the winder motor, glass, and a heap of metal work for the window to slide up/down against. Getting the glass out isn't that hard, but did need me to reconnect the battery, and use the winder to lift the window up a bit so I coule more easily access the bolts holding it in place. The only thing I haven't figure out is how to get access to the door reinforcement bar. Normally I wouldn't encourage anyone to remove this, but the cage I'm putting in will have side protection, so removing this would help offset the weight in the cage. The Street Car Rules state: I read this as, I could gut the interior of the door, including the reinforcement bar, aslong as I retain the original door trim ? Anyone else read this differently ? PICTURES Door with trim removed Stripped Door Glass Removed Window Motor

Yeah, but it was inevitable driving around with a half-cage, very loud exhaust, and stripped interior. Besides it finally gives me the chance to do something with it Ross did the cam covers about 5 years back, nice and bright

I'll give you $100 if you can remove that cage in 10minutes by yourself

THE PUSH One of the main reasons for finally biting the bullet was the car recieved its 8th Yellow Sticker (thanks Brad), and rather than spending alot of time and money converting it back to stock I decided to bite the bullet and get serious about racing it properly. THE PLAN The plan is to get the car ready to run in Street Car Class, which a WA Variant of Sports Sedan 3D Rules. Street Car Rules CAMS 3D Sport Sedan Rules The rules provide a minimum race weight vs. tyre width, which means if I run 9"rims (which I currently have), then the Minimum Race Weight is 1350kg, which includes driver and fuel at the completion of the race. WEIGHT REDUCTION I'm aiming to significantly reduce the weight of the car, such that I can get as close to minimum racing weight as possible. If I manage to get the weight below that, then I can re-add balast in all the places that I want to try and improve the overall weight distribution. I've currently stripped out the half-cage, seats, roof lining and interior trim. Hoping to strip back alot of the excess wiring from HICAS, A-LSD, ABS, Stereo etc, and then get some dry ice onto the sound deadening to further remove weight. I'll also be stripping out all interior of the driver/passenger windows, and hoping to replace the majority of glass with Lexan. The rules also allow for replacement bonnet, fenders and boot. I already have cf bonnet, and fibre glass guards, so may purchase a cf boot to further replace weight. Currently removing the battery tray (about 2kg), with the intention of moving the battery to somewhere closer to the passenger seat location. ROLL CAGE A full weld in roll cage to meet the CAMS requirement for 3D Sports Sedans will be installed once the majority of the weight has been stripped out. Will post details as it goes in. PICTURES Current state of car, stripped interior Original Battery Location Battery Tray Removed (2kg's)

Some people may think it's way too late to start a build-up thread about my car, as it's probably had the majority of work done to it that most people would aim for. However the next stage in the evolution of this car is to prep it for competitive circuit racing. HISTORY I bought the car in 1998, and other than the Nardi steering wheel and a set of mags it was bog stock. The only nice discovery was that it came with the factory optioned Active-LSD. The car went through a series of mild modifications, which ended up netting about 300rwhp with the stock turbo, but having had to push pretty hard to get there the stock turbo blew and was replaced with a GT30 with high-mount manifold and external wastegate. We pushed this new setup to 400rwhp before the inevitable ring-lands on the RB25 pistons blew, and resulted in my first rebuild. The first rebuild was fairly basic, with GTR Rods and Weiseco pistons. We pushed this setup to 450rwhp on the GT30 until we managed to bend the GTR Rods. It was at this stage the car was off the road for close to 2 years, as we went through a full rebuild process, which resulted in the list below. The car was fitted with a T04Z turbo, and netted 600rwhp, until after a couple years the decision was to downgrade the power in preference of response, and so a GT3076R turbo was swapped for the T04Z. THE CAR Gunmetal grey R33 GTS-t S1 1994 Engine RB25DET block (stroked to 2650cc) R34 GTR crank Pauter forged rods HKS forged pistons HKS 1.6mm metal headgasket Nismo bearings N1 water pump HKS oil pump ARP main studs ARP rod bolts ARP head studs ARP cam studs RB25DET head (ported and polished) Tomei valve springs APEX'i GT Cams (270deg 8.9mm lift) Greddy adjustable cam pully APEX'i triple-plate clutch Hi-Energy Sump (7litre) ATI Harmonic Balancer RB25DET Gearbox (have OS Gearset not yet installed) R32 GTR Rear Diff (shimmed) Fuel System - E85 Sucrogen Race Fuel Walbro Lift Pump 2 x Bosch 044 fuel pump 4 litre ART surge tank HKS fuel rail SARD 850cc injectors HKS adjustable fuel regulator Gator Fuel Filter Fuel Cooler with Thermo Fan (Summit Racing) Turbo System and Cooling Greddy intake plenum Infiniti throttle body 100mm intercooler custom exhaust manifold (ceramic coated) Garrett GT3076R turbo TurboSmart 45mm ProGate (18psi spring) Trust airfilter GREX Oil Cooler 90mm exhaust PWR 45mm radiator SAMCO radiator hoses Greddy Header Tank radiator air guide Electrics APEX'i PFC D'Jetro(with hand controller) SplitFire Coils APEX'i RSM Blitz Spec R Boost Controller Braile Battery (3kgs) Battery Isolation System Suspension TEIN Monoflex adjustable coilovers Whiteline swaybars (front and rear) Adjustable rear control arms HICAS Lockbar IKEYA Formual Tie Rods JIC Traction Rods Brakes AP Racing 6-Pot (Front) AP Racing 355mm Slotted rotors (Front) PMu H18 Brake Pads (Front) AP Racing Solid Brake lines (Front) Brake Air Guides (Front) Earls Braided Brake Lines (Rear) R33 GTS-t Brake Setup (Rear) Body and Interior custom weld-in rollcage (Brad Stacey Fabrication) JUN front bar custom boot lid fibreglass front fenders CF bonnet bonnet pins Rays TE37 rims (17x9) Ganador wing mirrors Nismo clear indicators Bride Zeta III race seat (carbon fibre) Bride Zeta III race seat (fibre glass) (Passenger seat only) Nardi Steering Wheel Momo Gear Knob Momo pedals PICTURES At the drags Engine Bay Dutton Rally 2008 (Wanneroo Raceway)

Light weight, and more torque.

Just get Tab to pay for it, she can be your "Sugar Mommy"

I saw a guy hit that tree twice, in back to back runs

I know, sucks to be them

Not all, it's a mix of stuff, some at SpeedDome, AHG, MotorPlex etc. Tend to be small courses setup, nothing over 3rd gear.

The 350Z

Hi Guys/gals, Just letting you know about this event, for those interested in Tarmac Rally's. Me and the Mrs (Nizmo) and Brad(RDIRTY3) and his Mrs are entering, so come and join us. Let me know if you have any questions and I'll try and answer them http://www.classicrally.com.au/shannons_1_day_classic.htm Cheers Paul

I just wish someone would sponsor me tyres, as they seem to be the biggest ongoing cost

Don't get paid to race, but Sponsors donate parts, time etc, and some help cover the costs of event entry. It's better than nothing

Pity. Can't wait to see your new car.