AlexCim

Get the powerFC and take it to - Racepace in Bayswater - ICE in cheltanham or Revzone in nunawading. When I sort myself out with a 260RS, ill be taking it to Racepace personally.

Look at the symbol upside down. You are weak, should have been coming tonight. Selling for a 260rs or the like.

mine was just like, carr drriivveE....hit massive boost, then it just feels like something snaps, power dies, picks up again. over..and over...and over

I dont know if I am down for buying one any more, seeing as I want to sell up anyway. Will be down for a square with the unicorn engraved on it though. Let me know what that costs

what wheels are on the back? got a full set? are they all the same? what do you want for them? got better pictures?

ECU to me too When my coilpacks started f**king up, it was a massive stuttering under power which got worse the hotter the packs got.

No It will not still fit. I will let beastian explain why. Basically, the makers just changed designs which doesnt really suit highflows.

You need R33 GTR fronts and R33 GTST rears. Doubt you will find that combo. Go for the group buy, very well tailored to the car for AUSTRALIAN conditions. Coilovers are good... in japan....where they dont have big long shitty roads. PM Burns if you really want coilovers, he has a set of Tein WagonSpec's or something that he replaced with bilstein/whiteline.

Stock AFM and injectors will be good for the magic 200awkw. All the differnce in AFM's is resolution as highlighted above. I would personally just replace it with a stock one. Have you just thought about cleaning your afm? Just get some contact cleaner and spray the filament...

Spray it black, then it will be stealth. Looks a little dodgy like that is all...

RWKW...naa mate, I make AWKW . Yeh, RB25 in a Stagea. Made 160awkw with the coilpacks breaking up above 5000rpm. Peak power is still climbing at like, 7000 rpm too. GCG is the turbo, a highflowed standard turbo. www.gcg.com.au R&R is rich and retard, the ecu retards ign timing and richens up the mixture. Feels like a bit fat bang, then it slowly builds up again and off you go. Its pretty annoying... BTW, that was on a hub dyno... the best kind of dyno

yeh, hahah Just spoke with him, he has pricing, going to send it to me. Unit almost ready to fit, so is all good. In the end, he is a one man show, so i can understand him being really busy etc. Trust me, I want this spoiler as much as you all do...

BLACK, polished dish!

I dont know if just brembos up front OK I can understand brembos all around though. As darrin said, ask a comp shop

You are going to have complaince problems with the suspension and the brakes. Apart from that, there really aint no power mods there. 200awkw is easy to acheive (easier said than done though) Jaycar DFA Jaycar EBC Apexi SITC GCG highflow Full exhaust with good cat R34 GTT sidemount cooler That is all. Might wanna get a shit kit for the auto though.

Tried to call freddy a few times in the last few hours, cant get through. 0401 216 460 is his number if anyone wants to call direct, but ill give him another shot tonight.. ...taking his sweet ass time ey...

LOL, I am a n00b. I wanted to say the Autometer read the correct 4-5psi. Blitz - I was an importer/reseller of automotive gauges about 2-3 years ago when I was starting out. I imported from several companies products, one of which included Autogauge gauges and accessories. The problem that I found with the gauges in China was the calibrations they did. Often they didnt sit on zero (differences in air pressures from mountains in China where manufactured comapred to sea side melbourne maybe??) and they did over read boost. Thats just my general personal experiance. In the end, I think in a market like gauges where precision and accuracy plays a big role, as long as you are comparing two plain gauges (aka, not defi or some cool feature having one) a bigger price will more often than not result in a better product. Having said all that, if you just use the one boost gauge for all your testing (like using only a single dyno) and are well below the limit of the engine internals boost wise, I dont see a reason for a more accurate gauge being needed, as long as you always only compare with yourself (I am sure that kinda makes sense) PS - I paid $100 for my autometer boost gauge from Autobarn. More than happy and I know its pretty spot on

If you had a 260RS, id be keen for a swap + cash, but I am selling my RS4 to buy a 260RS.....sorry champ

Thats kinda nice coz you can see the fuel pressure.... kinda you wont need an FPR for 11psi+pod mate I run 16psi (GCG) on stock ecu, pod, full split exhaust/highflow cat/catback and GTR FMIC. The only thing you need to look for is R&R which i occasionally hit and fuel isnt that great

Mine had a damaged core and snapped driveshaft....came out OK on the highflow

hahahah, sorry champ, but the chinese gauges arnt that great. First day i got my car, i stuck in a chinese gauge like swoosh/type r etc and it read 6-7psi. I knew the car would be making 4-5 psi stock so i was like, wtf. Went and spent 100 bucks on an autometer and it read... 6-7psi. Just my personal experiance.

daily driver, 400km a week or so had the just around a year now, ~25,000km and rising

Well, for future reference, Ill use new washers and then just anneal them.

Watch what you say, STREET winding roads, I lead many cruises here in Melbourne for a very good reason. If you are ever down in Melbourne in the next 6 months, give me a buzz and I show you why. As far as COMPETITION winding roads, a 260rs would be the go, but a manual S would do it just as good. Even stock suspension, it was OK. SK's kit just made it a wonder. THOUGH, by no means it is a car on rails. Id much prefer a GTR or a RX7 FD.... stupid 125kw/tonne rule here for P drivers

mine will be for sale when i get the front repaired (truck tapped me, but its a bitch to get parts) car will be basically stock, just lowered a bit and some R34 GTT wheels. Ill be asking around the 15K mark for a well looked after S1. Trust me, you get what you pay for.