AlexCim

Well, my car has heaps of weight over the front wheels and i tend to understeer then oversteer if on the edge. However, the rear does not produce that wear pattern at all, its just pretty even wear.

Some background. Tyres: Hankook K104's running pressures around 38psi dry and 44psi wet. Suspension: Full SK whiteline/bilstein kit Alignmen: SK's reccomended, -2mm toe on the front, 1 degree negative front, 0.5 degrees negative rear, 0mm toe rear Driving condtions: 2 full drives of the great ocean road, 25% of 300km at hard style driving. 3x winding road driving sessions 50-60km distance EACH @ fast style driving. Regular city driving This is a front passenger wheel. The "forward" direction of the tyre is towards the right of the picture My rears just show a tiny bit of camber wear. I am not looking to "fix" this issue, just curious why it happends (I rotated my tyres today anyway. Here are photos of my wear pattern

After today i think i need a wing, body kit and 19's!

baby seats, god hope i dont see one of those for a while. 66yostagea - yes, some standard stageas come with mudflaps but i think a lot of people ditch them as i dont think you can have mudflaps and sideskirts. Probably best off to talk to Zac at slidewize imports and ask him if there is anything on yahoo.

i dont think Cyrus has spent anything on his car modifying it. So i presume his answer will be "it came with the car"

the only issue i find with sleeping in a car is that it gets cold, DAMN cold, specially in autumn/winter times however, i do agree about the rear seats. Its great being young and having a wagon....and i guess the gf is also needed in the equation

Taken from http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...dpost&p=1821526 So I can spend $43K on a 260RS.............easy $35K on the RS itself (I have seen 2 recently plus jakes) $1.5K suspension (shocks, bars alignment...standard springs are OK) $1.6K on a N1 steel wheel upgrade for the turbos $1K on a GT Power FC $1.5K on the exhaust, split dumps, hi flow cat $1K on brake pads and rotors $150 Nismo adjustable fuel presure regulator $400 Bosch 044 $800 Clutch $400 Adj camshaft pulleys Total $43,350 It will make around 290 rwkw, running higher fuel pressure via the AFPR will stretch the standard injectors that far. It will have good throttle response (6 versus 1 throtttle body) and fast boost build (N1 spec turbos are not that large). It will achieve more power at lower boost ( than the RB25) due to its less restrictive (standard) cylinder head. Solid cam followers (not hydraulic) so it will rev better. Slightly more agressive (RB26 versus RB25) cam timing and higher lift. The RB26 obviously also has better rods, crank, water pump, oil pump, head bolts etc etc There is enough work in fitting the parts (suspension, brakes, turbos, exhaust, Power FC, AFPR, clutch, fuel pump) and tuning (engine and suspension) to make me feel that I have invested my own personality into making it MINE. And if its not fast enough (unlikely with 290 rwkw) it is only a turbo (to 2530's) and injector (to 600 cc's) upgrade to get to 350 rwkw. The N1 spec turbos, AFPR and the standard injectors are easily sold to give a net cost of $2500 for the extra 60 rwkw.

Welcome to my life, 8 months ago! They're damn great little things arnt they...its all the little things that make it a good car to me.

If i was to buy an aftermarket one it would be a 100% plumb back. I am going to give it a go cleaning it with some carby cleaner see if that gets me back the noise i used to hear.

oh yeh good point, the car does only flutters when its low boost.

jake32 is his username, PM him

where are you located? Melbourne by any chance?

Where abouts in SE melbourne? I am in blackburn, you close?

I almost had my parents on the edge of buying me a 200rwkw S14a 200sx as a first car, unforatunatly, it was sold before i got back to em. Things progressed and in the end, i bought myself a stagea. Once i told my parents i wanted to manual convert, they said "f**k, we should have just taken our friends advice and bought you a WRX" Meh... im happy with my car

speak to autospeedbits.com.au

Stamp duty has to be paid if bought overseas or locally. Rego is a fixed annual fee here in Vic, stampy duty is a once off payment for the car when rego is transfered or first taken out by a person on a particaluar car. Not sure how it is in other states.

stasis - jake (cant remember username) on this forums has a 260RS and imports the like. He said prices are around that price now to import. cefiro - no one on these forums has big power apart from cruiseliner, but he is an exception. Most of us here have basic mods and a mild tune, but AFAIK no one here has over 200awkw with an RB25. Soon (6 months time) SK, Tangles and myself should all have around 200awkw. I will be going for about 220awkw if possible, but id give up WOT power for average power for streetability/winding road. We have all been distracted by important things when you own a stagea, like brakes and suspension (must remove that boatness) I dont forsee any issues for a manual car apart from a good clutch to deal with the weight. The auto would be good to have a shift kit and a/t cooler at those level. However, ill be getting a full rebuild to suit me.

Headlight globes as follows Lights - H4 Hi/Low Foggies - H3C Parkers - W5W Base T10 12V 5W

Yep, i know. I've driven around with both cases, stuck open and stuck closed. I much prefer stuck open but it was a lag monster.

Good luck getting 300awkw out of an RB25 for 6 grand mate. 6 grand would buy you PFC - 1000 Clutch - 1000 FMIC - 1000 Injectors - 800 Cams - 800 Exhaust - 1000 FRP/other little stuff - 400 Then you still need Turbo kit (cant use a high flow, need a Garret/HKS kit) - 2300 Fuel pump - 200-400 Air filter or pod - 70-150 EBC - 100-400 AFM of some kind - 300 Tune - 500 Possibly a rebuild (ive only heard of stock internals holding 270rwkw - 2500+ And dont forget we are talking about stageas here So you'll need the suspension done, at least swaybars so 500-2500 And brakes, something done with the brakes (DBA rotors and endless pads) - 700+450 If the budget dont strech to 260rs, id personally buy a S1 auto and sink the difference into the S1. An auto can be a pretty good driving car, there is nothing wrong with it just coz its auto (I too am a manual lover, dont get me wrong, i drive mums manual astra everytime i get a chance)...or as above, save for a little and get a 260rs PS. This is from an email i asked andy about his car "all up so far ive spent just under $23,000 and i won the car at auction for 660,000 yen (or 760,000 yen FOB) which is very cheap. i have been monitoring the auction prices and it seems that stagea prices are definately going up, although thats not to say that there arent any bargains out there. if you want to go ahead with it and your willing to wait until one at the right price comes along im sure you wont have any worries." Sorry that ive only confused you more...

just dont want to damage my turbine due to a BOV that isnt suitable. I want plumb-back BOVing, not flutter. I mean, i like flutter, but i want to be safe than sorry.

just the front seats, what do you want for the pair + estimate of shipping to Melbourne

are you going to clean it before selling? I may be interested, do you travel down blackburn way often? (pray you go to monash uni )

yes, but the FOB price is what you paid for the car, its unfair for them to include transport costs as "car cost" What if i had a private ship and i was in japan for a holiday and i brought a car with me, then the shipping "was free" rah rah rah I would argue with me for 1 hour to save $500+, rather then just pay the full ammount from the start.

how much cash you got to play with? If i were you, id save my pennies and go the 260rs or just get an auto rb25 these are rough prices for cars rb25 auto - 13k-14k (rough) or 15-16k (mint) on road rb25 manual (according to EAG14T/ian) - 23k-25k on road rb26 manual - 35k on road Think of it this way RB25+10k = stock RB26 RB26+5k = ~300awkw