AlexCim

I said in the previous GB that Id invest my own cash to secure this group buy, well I did and I am now stuck with 7 tranny coolers under my bed. Anyone else still interested in buying a transmission cooler? So far: humble bwilkeson pkblade skidkid x2 wagon AMS Nightcrawler MR_RS4 gr3ddy [sTAGEN] Fastrotor SWC945 (didnt get it direct through me, but I assisted him in getting the same deal/product) 66yostagea (sent last week) All happy participants.... Its definatly not something you want to live without in Australia. I hear Stagea gearboxes aint too common...

Yes, these are still available. Ive sent you a PM

Bought these 2 weeks ago, but selling them due to a change of plans with my car (being sold) The camshafts are brand new, still in the boxes and plastic. They are for the Series 2 RB25DET R33 Skylines or Stageas Part numbers for the cams are: 143050 IN 1415 256085 EX 1426 256085 They are 256 degrees duration and retain the standard 8.5mm lift. For more information on Poncams, the Tomei website http://www.tomei-p.co.jp/_2003web-catalogu...shaft_rset.html These cams are designed to be a DIRECT replacement to the standard cams, retaining the stock lifters. These cost $830 delivered new on Nengun, but you have to wait for them to arrive. I am asking $780+delivery

Was a good day all in all and i found out why the hell i was running slower then I should have been at the start of the day...... the boost was set at 7psi. During lunch slapped a bleed valve in and upped it to 15psi, instantly shaved 0.7 of a second of my ET. Best time for the day was [email protected] Improvement over the time at calder before the turbo of 14.7@92mph. However, the only gripe i have is with the guy who was controlling the tree in the 2nd half of the day. Normally once both cars stage, it should be like 2-3 seconds before they go orange then green, so being an auto I have to start stalling right away or i dont hit boost off the launch. The guy who was controlling the tree at the 2nd half of the day was being a prick and waiting like, 10 seconds some times(or random lengths (i counted)), and i am not doing to damage my GB by stalling for 15-20 seconds, the bloody oil heats up quickly. One time he even saw me stalling it up waited and came up to my passenger window and looked me in the eyes, i gave him a hurry the f**k up look too.... He even managed to make me stall(aka, turn off) the car one time when it was stalling up and he wouldnt pressure the f**king button. Yes...stalling an auto....not easy to do but he made me do it! He did the same thing to Pete on the run after the 12.86. Pete just did a massive burnout, was staged, revving, revving, revving, revving, revving.....the bastard just didnt press the button. There was NOTHING stopping him. He was even watching pete revving! Then pete stopped revving......HE PRESSED THE BUTTON. Topped that run off with a 13.06

when i drive mountain roads, i turn the o/d off to stop it going into 4th (which is 180kph+ anyway) and i find that power is not as good as without it i leave i stuck in 2nd anyway.

looks not, but it is as far as i know.

on the dyno the other day, i was getting 14.5's off boost and 12.somethings on boost. Not too shabby for a 100% stock ECU IMO

they sort it out themselves and fit you the bill. they will just use the cheapest tyres that are suitable unless you say otherwise.

I am more sure than you, so i'd bet thats sure enough. Just google 260RS stagea mate, bring up spec sheets and sift. I may just burn them at a friends house and send them to you, Ill see which i get around to. Dont have much time for anything at the moment.

Front : 245/40R17 Rear : 245/40R17

everyone will do it differently lets put it this way. You will hear more about importing from the people that go bad. Being human, you will focus on the bad. Is importing annoying? Do you mind 15,000 sitting in a foreign dock waiting for import and your importer doesnt answer your calls / puts everything off?

the only pedals that bolt staight into the stagea are GTR pedals. The clutch pedal has a shorter throw, therefore requires GTR master. Beastian is going to attempt to mod GTST pedals to fit.

if you want to keep the stock speedo accurate, use this website and find some aftermarket tyres to use with any wheels. http://www.1010tires.com/TireSizeCalculator.asp As far as buying tyres, just make sure you get same tyres front/rear. Replace all 4 at once. Rotate them maybe ever 6 months to a year, depending how you drive. Ive just rotated mine after 3 months and really needed to do. I do load up the front wheels quite a bit.

My one has a dimmer swtich, but all they did was cut the power wire then put a variable resistor in series. so i dont get extra brightness, only dimmer'ness. I started a topic on this about 6 months ago. Anyway, your best bet is to buy some brighter LEDs with a wide angle so they get a good spray. Best to wait for beastien to reply about what LED's he's bought. PS. I think Nissan made a royal mistake by not illuminating the "fan" and "mode" buttons on the climate control

aftermarkete HID kits are often crap. have a read, enjoy http://www.intellexual.net/hid.html

call the place i mentioned, he always has gaskets. it will be a big drive for you though, west west to east east.

a stock R34 GTT side mount cooler is good for 200rwkw. Make a better duct for it, will be more than suitable for your purposes.

Dromana drive in, stageas parked backwards with the boots open! Otherwise, anywhere with roads in this shape "S" are good. GOR would be good too, there is japherse in geelong and Luke in anglesea. BBQ sounds good as always. I am free whenever, give me more than 1 weeks notice and time will be made.

brave mth fker though id not try to climb everest with no legs

id put my money on none. you'll get slightly more flow, but slightly less throttle response. Also might get a slight increase in boost 0.5psi or so.

where in vic are you? Post of a pic up of your vacuum hoses

i drive around with o/d on all the time. O/D is a fourth gear only selectable in 3rd gear via a 12V solenoid switch. I too hate the light. The reason the car sounded better was because at above 60km/h where it would be in O/D, the car was still in a lowered gear and made a better song. I also use O/D when on the dyno to keep the car in 3rd gear. I also use O/D when driving 170km/h+.....mainly because I've run out of 3rd by then To be honest, Ive never taken O/D off on the road.

i'd prefer the term boat thank you

well, given no one else here has compared manual style driving vs automatics, i am sure i have no issues with posting up some G-tech 0-100 results

Eastern Turbochargers in Bayswater.