AlexCim

when the window doesnt move at all from the controls either side, i found the switch was just unplugged on the passenger side. Plug it in and you will see.

rear doors - http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...dpost&p=2120795 Front doors - Pull off the top arm cover, undo screw. There is a screw where the door skin touches the dash and i think thats it. Run fingers around skin, off it comes, Unplug all the shit, there you go.

I wouldnt know, the stagea came to me with a headunit already in it (yes, oddly enough the exact headunit that i had ready to go into it ) When i re-did the wires (they were horribly done), that black/yellow wire was connected to something. After i did the wires, i left it disconnected and then reception went crap. I asked the guy i bought my gear from and he said that in the glass antennas need a signal amplifier power wire. With my powers of deductive reasoning and the fact that there is no other bare wire at the back of the console area, I predict (and being connected to the anntenna wire by tape/foam) that the black/yellow is the signal amp. Put it this way Gary, who really cares why(not how) it works, as long as it actually works.

Oh, by the way, there is no antenna signal amplifier. The way these antennas work that are in the glass is that they need a small ammount of current to run through them and it produces an electromagnetic field which does some bullshit that makes it work better. (The guy that sold me my speakers/amp said that to me) So you need to connect that antenna wire to a power source, where REM is fine as its a 0.1A connection.

You are quite lucky that i have a big hole in my dash. Here is a photo of the power antenna wire. As i said, the wire for it is taped to the antenna wire (which in my case bends downwards). The two wires are then covered in some foam stuff and go up and to the left...or the right, i cant really tell. That black/yellow wire is what you attach to the antenna. If that wire is not attached (like mine), you will get terrible reception (in dips in the road/under bridges etc, reception will cut out. When you do attach it, it really REALLY makes listening to the radio a lot better. I am just lazy to fix it for now.

id be interested in this, depending on cost and availability AFTER the group buy

they are "easy" but "long" to produce my hand just wouldnt stop vibrating! Thats what a $12 jigsaw does to you

we are all so helpful to eachtother on this forum, its a true place for knowledge exchange

hahah!

well, i dont want kids id much rather little rubber kids, that i can burns and destroy as i please.

Firstly, my speakers the magnets easily didnt fit in the stock areas, i had to cut the back out of both the front and rear spacers. 2nd, due to the fronts being moulded into the plastic, after cutting out the stock speaker with a dremel, i found my speakers were just a little over sized (I could get 2 of the four screws in, not all 4.) I tried so hard to use the stock holders, but they just wouldnt hold. Also, the front plastic seemed pretty brittle, but hey. So, i had to use massive spacers to fit my speakers in without hitting the door. The stock spacers are ~36mm front and 32mm rear.

f**k, 600cca! Thats double the size of my battery!

ahah this thread has 2,059 views and 138 replies!

at least the RACV truck would have been free no?

tRUkbOY - there is no standard amplifier Ian - To do the speakers, you need to remove the door skins. From memory, the only screws holding the rear skin on are under the top part of the hand holder part. Start from the bottom of the skin and unclip it from the metal door. Finger strength will be more than enough. Move along until all the clips are undone, then lift it UP off the frame. Be sure to unplug the window switch and away you go. The rear speakers are screwed into the spacers they use, so you will be able to basically directly replace the speakers. The front speakers are moulded into the plastic spacer. I used two 16mm spacers glued/screwed together as spacers for my speakers. The paper is just there to give a better seal between the two layers of MDF. The heads of the screws holding both plates together are in between all the screws for the speaker and the heads are sunk into the wood.

Ok, no-one hold your breaths as I will need to organize this very smoothly so I am either not stuck with two cars for too long, or without a car for a long time. Ill keep everyone posted what ill be removing as I go along. Thank you all ian - its not for cruising around that i am selling the stagea, I am selling it because at those times in my life that i wish it was just a little lighter, a little more manual or a little nimbler, it just isnt. I can gaurentee that I take the stagea well beyond the specifications of what nissan ever intended for it, and even what most people would consider a wagon should do. For this reason, i beleive a manual/sports car will better suit my needs at this time. I shall be back though, when I need a wagon again (lets just hope its not kids on the way any time soon, im only 19!! (as of in 2 days time)

BCPR7ES's are what SK reccomeded. I run a street tune of 11psi on an untuned engine thou. I just realized a few more symptoms the other night. For some reason i had massive boost spiking, so I am going to cut the EBC out of the equation and go to actuator spring pressure for a while (which is what the EBC is set to anyway).

the deadener in the airbox is a lot bigger/thicker than that. That looks like lining for the bonnet lining. Add a rear wing to that kit and it will be MINT. Looks damn good already thou

Nup, I am still going to do the rear wings. My dedication to stagea's is beyond ownership

I will be wanting a standard stagea automatic from someone when they remove it. I will swap it into my car before it gets sold. So keep me in mind

...and now i am even considering selling my stagea....

Ive found almost EVERY stagea has something unique about it. I havnt really found any stagea thats the same as mine, or vice versa

Sorry Ian, but one of the main points to changing cars would be to go to something that is Manual. If your car was manual, id definatly consider it. Qikstagea, pictures of the FMIC install at in "The Intercooler Thread" which i started. Here is a link - http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...topic=92828&hl= As you can see, I took the most care in making the pipes avoid cutting any holes. Also, id be wanting to sell the whole thing as a front bar re-o swap over as there are mounts welded onto the re-o and its slightly trimmed. I guess most things off my car will be able to be sold as it appears, so this helps me in my decision makings. Will keep everyone posted.

Thanks for the interest, Ill have a look see over the next few months and see if I can find anything. In that case, Id sell the stuff from the car. Ive also got some PONCAMS that are on their way to me right now, also might consider selling some SSS pads and DBA slotted discs (unless i put them on and sell em with the car)

I can buy it all again and install it in the GTT. Id keep it, but the speakers in the Stagea are SO specific its crazy. I mean, the spacers are a triangle shape with little rods poking out of them etc, they are quite unique. Plus.... i cut into the A pillars to mount the tweeters, so id love to trade with someone who wanted a killer stereo.