SKYMAGGOT

Anyone notice much grip difference between 235 & 265 with same sort of compound? Also running 235 front 265 rear compared to 235 or 265 all round?

I far from know anything but maybe you sort it with injector sizes & it may be a case of you'll probably spray as much as possible in the mid range and end up with proportionately less in the top end whichever way it's controlled?

I haven't got much info at this point, I spoke to a tuner that uses the AEM kit who said he usually gets the most gains in the mid range, which would go along with this theory based on psi, say it's starts spraying at 5psi then full at 12, at higher revs & as boost climbs you'd probably need to pull less/add more fuel than in the mid range

Yeah I don't know too much at this point but something like GTSBoy is saying, just spray as much as the spark can handle

Not sure about the controller, haven't been able to find much about it, will do a bit more research over the weekend. A lot of people seem to be using the AEM...

I see it for sale a few places, https://www.trademe.co.nz/a/motors/car-parts-accessories/performance/fuel-systems/listing/3829493793?bof=tEYhDDS4 https://www.nitrousexpress.com/Snow-Performance-Stg-4-Boost-Cooler-Platinum-Water-Injection-Kit.asp

From what I can gather WMI seems pretty reliable, make sure the injector doesn't get clogged & of course make sure it doesn't run out lol

Combustion engineer in the room...

Yeah for sure, can blow the motor pretty easily, I'll have a look at Aquamist

Cheers man, I'll have a look at those threads, the stage 4 Snow kit looks pretty good, the AEM is progressive also, I'll check if the tuner has any preference. Looks like the Snow uses rpm & psi where the AEM just psi, I doubt we'll ever get e85 so worth getting a decent one for sure.

Yeah been thinking that, what kit you reckon? AEM 30-3300 or Snow, maybe stage 4?

OK, yep lol

We don't really have e85, can get a 200l for about $900f you can pick it up, but then can't store a 200 easily with insurance etc, I don't really notice anything with spool, just feels a bit flat with less timing but I've only run 1/3 & 50/50 with e100

Yeah it does, just feels a bit flat with less timing, we have 100+ which is 101.5 but the tune is for 98 so could probably pick up a bit with that

Dunno what's up here? lol

This is pretty much me, the whole setup is outdated & needs a do over but thought the cams might make it a bit less depressing in the meantime haha

Yeah it's a bit of a band aid until I can sort out a new setup which will be a few months

Every part of your setup is better than mine, I'm doing a new setup on the side but will be early next year sometime before can finish it off, I'm just trying to band aid until then as it feels crap without the E mix

Ok, have you run them before? Might be better to get new if they're worn which is unusual? GT3582r usually means roller bearing-I don't think there's a Garrett version that's JB so could be something else? A lot of people in NZ seem to have the TA3410 JB Garrett. You just running 98?

Anyone have any experience between the poncam 256 8.5 & the Kelford 246-A 262 9.3? For a basic street setup 25 around 350kw with gtx3076. (back to pump gas now as ethanol is getting too expensive @ about $5.50/l & a hassle for mixing). Doesn't seem to be a lot of results around for the Kelford? I don't know a lot about cams with regards to overlap & ramp angles etc but seems like the Kelford is probably better or maybe not much difference?

Thanks, pretty close between the s2 & neo, better to spend on the bottom end & just springs in the head for most probably.

With all the rb25 testing can you please give an idea of what you think are rough limits of the stock r33 type head & the neo head, assuming they're in good condition? Roughly what the stock springs & cams will do, thanks

Sounds good, how's the 335 been for reliability?

Yeah it'll flatten out to somewhere around where people can afford or are willing to pay that price, 50k isn't bad. Any regrets? What did you replace it with?

Any recent comments on values & guesses at future values? With the theft, cost of insurance & parts etc it's getting pretty tempting to move on. In NZ a half decent manual turbo rwd car usually sells between 30-40k, they can range up to 70 80k but not really selling at those prices.