niZmO_Man

Spotted about half an hour ago, a red R34 coupe with dark wheels and SAU sticker going along Cowpasture Rd and went towards the M7 ramps. JD32R - all I know is it's JASMA approved, has two mufflers. If your exhaust has those little hotdog style resonator then it'll be loud.

Sorry for not updating earlier. In relation to this topic, replacement alternator fixed the HICAS issue (haven't had any steering kicks or the pump going spastic as of yet after a couple of weeks of driving). As for the rear end issue, it looks like it's related to wheel alignment (toe out I'm guessing, I dropped backe the rear camber arms a bit and it has settled the rear end a bit). tl;dr - HICAS is voltage sensitive.

Spotted red R35 turning into WSID yesterday evening. JD32R - it's fairly standard actually, just front pipes back exhaust, suspension. I think I had the old 3" back then, it now has 3.5" 5Zigen so it's much quieter. Loving the N1 boot lip on yours, I want one

Yes I agree, there are some nicely done cars which aren't outrageous. Still not worth it though.

Ahh so you're the person with the gunmetal GT-R with black wheels, nice car mate. I work in Chatswood, I've seen your car a few times. Also behind ABC

Managed to pull the gold knobs off and put them back on, now they turn like any other screw thingy

Greetings fellow SAU-ians, So I got my self a set of second hand Ohlins for R32 GT-R. They work great, has really good rebound feel etc etc. My only small naggling issue is that I can't adjust the dampers on them. It has a gold knob on top, which spins/clicks but it doesn't come to a stop (e.g. full soft, keep spinning anticlockwise, full hard, spin clockwise). On one damper, it wasn't clicking and I could actually adjust the softness (spun like any other screw type thing). Only problem was that it wasn't matched to the rest of them, so I set it to full hard, and now that knob is clicking as well like the rest of them So I'm wondering, am I doing something wrong? I can lift the knobs slightly and turn it, also tried pushing down a bit and turning. I guess I'm forever doomed to have non-adjustable dampers (my previous TEINs were spring seat height adjustable only). Once again, it isn't a major issue, it's just that it would be nice to have the ability to soften them up a tad because the car is driven in Sydney.

adjustable upper arms, you can get some from just jap.

IMO the KU31 just edge out the SS595 in performance. Had both on my cars. Currently running KU31 all round on the GT-R. Very good tyre with lots of grip for the road. KU31 255/35/18 @ $180 each from Tempe Dry 8/10 Wet 8/10 SS 595 215/45/17 @ $130 from Tyrepower Dry 7.5/10 Wet 7/10 Please note the sidewall difference. I run 38psi cold on all tyres. Also had a pair of KU31s 205/55/16 running on my old R32 GTS-t, they were very good. Hard going past KU31 for price vs. performance. I also heard that KU31 and KU36 use the same compound.

Got pictures? Where are you located?

As above, look at doing a TAFE course, then you'll have to find an entry level job with a low pay. After you get some experience, you can get more certs/get a better paying job and start specialising in an area (networking, hardware, operating system, applications).

Great to see so many responses, and TPTB told me they can't find people pfft r33-Scotty, PM sent.

Support Engineer (Field services, i.e. go out and fix stuff). Deal mainly with servers, but also deal with storage (disks, tapes) and other enterprise equipment. If you have a certification/qualification in an OS or device (e.g. CCNA, AIX/Solaris admin), feel free to contact me. P.S. I'm not a recruiting person, I work for this company lol. I'm trying to get locals into our technical team.

My company is currently looking to hire some people who want to get into the I.T. industry. Must be reliable, fast learner, have good work ethics, and a drivers license+car. The company deals with enterprise hardware (servers, storage, etc.), so once you get settled into this part of the industry, you can make some big $$$. Ideally you would be finishing TAFE or some sort of I.T. uni degree and want to start working. Training is provided by the company. If you have messed with computer hardware then you'll pick up the work very quickly. PM me for more info. Note: If this is against forum rules, I apologise. Feel free to delete this thread if so.

LOL! As long as you're willing to learn, not lazy, etc. because I will have to put up with you .

My company is currently looking to hire some young people who want to get into the I.T. industry. Both for Sydney and for Melbourne. Why young? Because the starting pay is pretty low, but jumps quickly as you progress in your career Must be reliable, fast learner, have good work ethics, and a drivers license+car. The company deals with enterprise hardware (servers, big storage, etc.), so once you get settled into this part of the industry, you can make some big $$$. Ideally you would be finishing TAFE or some sort of I.T. uni degree and want to start working. Training is provided by the company. If you have messed with computer hardware then you'll pick up the work very quickly. PM me for more info. Note: If this is against forum rules, I apologise. Feel free to delete this thread if so.

More problems rear end of the car is unstable now, especially at highway speeds. It essentially steers wherever it wants to now. I'm guessing the super low voltage/me unplugging the computer stuffed the rear rack up?

Well on the way back from work yesterday, alternator stopped charging completely. Managed to get the car off a busy road, and parked it in a side street (flat battery). Today, grabbed a second hand alternator, threw it in the car and away I went. So far so good, no more flashing HICAS light as of yet. I still hear a solenoid clicking away in the passenger side of the boot. I'll suss it out tomorrow. I'll clean the grounds as well.

Got an update on this issue, which popped up yesterday. Volts got real low (dipped below 12 while engine was running), HICAS system goes spastic (flashing light, can very clearly hear the pump going off every second, steering obviously kicking in sync with the pump). The voltage would go as low as 6.5V while driving (lost radio, and eventually HICAS). Went and bought a new battery, all sweet for a few minutes until the volts dropped below 12.5V. Strange thing is, sometimes the volts would go up to the usual 13.5V mark and everything will run sweet. So, the HICAS system is very sensitive to the voltage (as documented here on SAU), the strange thing is trying to locate source of the voltage drop. I hope the alternator isn't dying. I've cleaned the plugs at the terminal with contact cleaner it fixed the issue for about a minute. One of the fusible links is a little dodgy, I might try to replace the terminal. I'll also have a look at the alternator tomorrow and hopefully find some sort of resolution. *edit* Unplugging the HKS turbo timer doesn't make a difference. I'll suss out the wiring anyway in case it's not grounded properly.

Street car? QFM HPX

I don't see what's so great about pod filters, sure, they're good for saving some space (e.g. custom piping on a GT-R), but on a relatively standard car, there's no point IMO. If you don't think the stock airboxes are that great, look up Mine's R34 on youtube .

Bahahahah @ Yo-Yo's comment OP - take it into various speed/work shops and tell them what you want. People usually do the things described above to get stance, you will lose driveability, especially if you're driving around Sydney.

Spotted yesterday white R32 GT-R on mesh-style wheels, we had a good time checking each other out . I was pulling off Epping Rd at the lights with the safety camera.

Spotted a red Stagea with club stickers about half an hour ago at the Epping/Lane Cove Road junction.

Damn I should've done what you said smithy, but didn't know about it Thanks for the headsup.