niZmO_Man

I can't speak from experience, but the best thing I did on my BMW Active Tourer (screen wise) was to buy a Linux screen off aliexpress and replace the standard unit. Perhaps you can look into those options?

I bought a BM57 in a sealed Nissan box off someone from here a few years ago, was like $500 so not that expensive.

IMO: if you really want to keep the VQ, supercharge it. Otherwise, VR38DETT/VR30DETT conversion, or sell for a better base car. Or go wild with a V8 turbo conversion, or a Hartley V12...

If you want some LMGT1s, let me know

No shit I've fixed shudder/noise by slamming on the brakes a couple of times from 60-80 km/h. If they still made noise after that, take the pads out, rub on concrete floor/file the friction surface, install and bed in. Fixed like 3x QFM pads for me. Oh and if you're tracking it, never skimp out. You may recall my R31 at Oran Park many years ago with melted pads...

Hell yeah! S12 underrated. I saw a magazine scan of a widebody long ago, can't find it. I think you should pump the guards, always looks good

V8 swap

Low battery? Maybe check capacity? I know first-hand, on BMWs if your battery drops below 80% capacity, it starts causing strange issues.

8.5 +37 = should fit rear, but I think it'll hit on front. What you want is low 30s/high 20's front, mid 30's rear. That 17" screenshot you posted looks good, I'd run it on my R32 (but that's long dead now). For tyre sizes, my rule of thumb is: 8': 235, 9": 255. But that's just my opinion. Nismo sizes: 18x8.5+35/18x9.5+38 is a good starting point.

Genuine is best. I have to replace my SIL's Audi A3 DRL module because the $20 alibaba special one has faded within a month... Sigh...

I owe you a lot, so will set aside R32 projectors for you. Once I get around to doing some retrofits lol. Posting it here so I can convince myself to stop talking shit and doing what I said I'll do. Not that you'll need them lmao.

Love it.

Welcome! I always recommend looking underneath the car, check chassis rails, jack points etc. Will save you a lot of headache. Don't get caught up in FOMO/over-enthusiasm, check the car thoroughly.

no idea, just remember a red(ish) R32 GTS-t with a clutch plate through the bonnet lol.

12+ months passed so they have no obligation to do a warranty claim. It leaked from the rear circuit. Front circuit was fine, but I tried many times to bench-bleed and in-car bleed (wasted 1L of Penrite racing brake fluid) to no avail. Threw my old BM50 or whatever the standard R32 GT-R BMC is, brakes went back to normal. So from my very limited anecdotal experience, I cannot recommend HFM, even though a lot of their products looks good. Just my experience (I have a genuine Nissan BM57 in a box waiting to be installed now).

I bench bled my HFM BM57 before installing, it leaked badly. Threw it in the bin, because I installed it 2 years after purchase.

That is horrid. Reminds me of the time that R32 send the clutch through the bonnet, then the guy tried to sell his car using those pictures.

Avoid the CVT.

Yes please. I've been contemplating selling my R32 for a 400Z, but much rather a sedan.

Big dolla build

Updated VR38 that meets emissions + 3 electric motors (one on each front wheel, one in gearbox) = massive performance. Hell even with just one electric motor on front axle + e-diff will be mega. No denying electrification, just need to keep the weight in check somehow. Cry as many do, but the new Mercedes-AMG C63 has massive performance from a 2L 4-cyl turbo + electric motors. The new NSX I reckon is a great car, just people scoffed at it, like the Lexus LFA.

Pics mate!

Fantastic info, thanks for sharing!

That is a lovely Volvo, just saying. Yes I should have got an 260RS when they were cheap. I do regret now.

^ lots of good points made above. The thing is, "aggressive" or "flush" fitment is relative depending on how much you have been influenced by social media. My starting point is always "look at the Nismo RWD specs". That is where you should start, then start measuring as GTSBoy as sort of mentioned, because every car will be slightly different. My 8.5"+35/9.5+38 will not be "flush" enough for you because you want more "pumped" look, which is why you measure. Tyre sizes and brand/models also make a difference. Some tyres are more chunky/square, some are more rounded. That means you could get away with more aggressive offsets without rubbing. But then it also depends on your ride height. Also depends on how much your car copped damage before being shipped from Japan. So it goes back to measuring your car yourself and determining what can work. Those Nismo specs are used bacause it's a safe spec for standard car (suspension. body) with chunky tyres. But then I put 265/35 wide tyres on R34 GT-R wheels, and currently run 285/30 tyres on 18x10 wheels.