Ronin 09

Weds are cast.

This might be worth doing? Has anyone done a metal cut / fab of the GTR guards similar to this M3 Wagon? Glass = poo

yeah but ash if you're rebuilding the ones on your car you don't have to buy anything other than the rebuild kit ($25), pads ($140) and misc rebuild stuff... so it's more like $200 all in to rebuild inc fluids etc.

You forgot the JDM Time Attack spec lambswool seat covers. Guaranteed to shave 2s off your lap times.

or this - good solution

i've heard good things about Borla mufflers... never used them though http://www.borla.com/products/universal.aspx stainless though so you'd need to either get flanges to mate the stainless to ti system, or make it a slip system...?

fark, ash. what he said.

I perhaps should have been more clear; the 90mm is straight through with no loss of power; I don't have to dick around with removing or refitting any baffles or silencers between road/track. The system has two very large and well made (by hand) mufflers that simply work. It belts out ~340kw at the wheels every day. Also, as noted by dkbcleaner, i do love the sound of an RB, and when it is high in the revs it still makes a great sound - albeit quieter than a Japanese 3" exhaust. but I'm not here to justify my choice; your circumstance may be different and therefore you seek something different. Just trying to help kaneryan get to an acceptable solution for his problem. GSTBoy: your solution is technically robust and elegant, but do you really think it is logistically feasible? where would you put it? Floorpans are limited so you could only really put it where the centre muffler should be. But is that where it's needed? Can you get one made of Ti? Otherwise you need to cut the existing ti, insert a ti flange, get a stainless resonator, bolt on? Sounds complicated and expensive. Plus all the dicking around to find the resonant frequency. Robust and elegant, potentially, practical, no.

You're going to have to get something with a centre muffler, or at least a reasonable size resonnator. Dicking around with wrapping the exhaust defeats the purpose of a nice system in my view - it's a bit band-aid solution. So options come down to: 1. cut and insert a muffler in the mid section (don't know how easy or hard this may be with Ti) 2. sell yours and get another ti system with a centre muffler 3. sell yours and get a custom made one that is quieter with a centre muffler I went option 3 because it means the car is only slightly louder than stock, so it can be booted around on WOT happily without getting the look of death from other road users. My view is that the louder it is, the less you're inclined to enjoy it (at least in Vic where the popo are draconian).

yeah ok so 15kg saving on a 1500kg road car = 1%. WIN. you're probably right but the point is that chasing weight saving from a titanium exhaust on a full weight road car is a bit silly.

I have a racepace 90mm on my 32 gtr. So quiet. BUT it's mild steel and so heavy compared to these Ti systems. To the OP, what is the criteria that you are looking for? 1. lightness 2. quiet 3. sound of ti In order to help we need to know what your priorities are. I want quiet so saving 5kg isn't a biggie for me, and that can be had easily by changing over seats etc or removing the space saver...

Damo, I am guessing that you will be getting hats and caliper mounting brackets made up. Remember that you can then shift the caliper inboard a little more (as long as there is inner clearance of suspension arms etc.) if you're doing this... that may give you ample clearance?

well that's a fugly colour.

Here you go. Was that hard? Olarenshaws is good in sunshine.

Some food for thought re wheel “fit” It’s very difficult to generalise whether “Diameter x Width + offset” will “fit” a particular car. Consider this: Most cars have different geometry settings (e.g. aftermarket arms, bushes etc) which will affect camber, caster, toe etc. a change in camber settings between one car and another may cause a ‘fitting’ wheel to foul Most cars have different ride heights (running stock/aftermarket/etc coilovers) which will affect geometry and clearance to the guard when turning (front) Some people are running different brake set ups, with aftermarket mounting alloy bells, that may be different thickness than the original cast iron one piece rotors. So a thicker rotor bell will increase track slightly, which may make a ‘fitting’ wheel on one car foul another Obviously spacers make a difference Obviously different size tyres will give different clearances also There’s probably more stuff I’m not remembering. For what it’s worth, the simple question of “will these wheels fit my GTST/GTR/etc” really needs an answer of: what are the current geometry settings what brake setup are you running and are the hats thicker/thinner than the oem are you running spacers etc And lastly, I’m running 18x9.5 + 15s with 255/35/18 Michelin PS2s on my R32 GTR. They are the exact CE28 rims that “DarrenJC” has on his black 32 v-spec above. It has a/m front and rear brakes that I think are a little thicker than OEM (prob 3-4mm) so the effective track is wider. My wheels are definitely sitting further out that his image. My R34GTR wheels sat about where his CE28s sit. Front end: a/m front arms with about 2.5deg neg camber and max castor. Now lock is destroying my guard liners so will wind out caster and wing on some more static camber. Rear end: a/m arms running about 0.5deg neg camber. When static compressed the tyre has about 3mm clearance to the outer guard (which in not rolled). Will wind on a touch more camber for safety. Hope that helps.

Gun metal or a dark grey

best rims. was looking for a set of them...

Wanted, an OEM r32 GTR rear wing in Melbourne. Not too fussed about colour, but darker is better (e.g. black or gunmetal), but not necessary. Will be repainting. Looking to spend under a hundred bucks!! thanks

what the hell did you hit it with!?

the n1 skirt sits under the door on an R32GTR if that's your question? reread it mate - it doesn't make sense? there is no N1 skirt for GTS-t?

Going to go with a mega thread bump here. Chris, do you have to separate the halves of the calipers to powder? I think my front 6 pot APs were coated when the caliper was together, as the hex bolts holding the two sides together are also coated. If I wanted them recoated, what needs removing? Also, what's the deal with heat issues and powder coated calipers? cheers

Has anyone bought anything from here before? It's China alibaba express Interested in the Abflug front lower diffuser... http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Nissan-Skyline-R32-GTR-BNR32-AB-Style-Carbon-Fiber-Front-Bumper-Lip-Splitter-Fit-GTR-Only/534722786.html or is there anyone here that does just the front? All the Japanese suppliers of the (real) Abflug only do Front and Rear diffusers... cheers

don't replace them (the subframe bushes) with urethane items, unless it's for a track car. They put WAY too much NVH into the cabin and are super stiff. If they are flogged out put in OEM fluid filled ones, or use pineapples...

Thanks Ash, maybe i'll get the suspension fellas to back off the compression damping and up the rebound a touch and see how that goes first.

Crap, actually after a pair of 10" or 254mm springs, 65mm ID, 5kg/mm... so the Eibach part number is 1000.250.0275 or 1000.250.0275S