Beeble

Hmmm. HKS quote 522kw for the twin GTRS setup at ~1.8bar I take it that's at the flywheel? (since the SR20 figure is 294kw at 1.2bar) Why such a difference in boost pressure for their graphs??

I've got an airbox in Kew if you like... Good luck

^thanks Made 230-240rwkw at 15psi with the GT-RS. The tuner said he could have squeezed 250 out of it if i wanted the numbers on the dyno sheet... but i'm really just interested in a quick street car with lots of punch out of corners. Turbo honestly is very close to stock lag-wise. Most impressed for what i wanted it for.

^do a search for " 2835* " and you will get at least two threads with pages of info on that turbo ; the installs with pics and any problems and issues along the way. From approx oct/nov/dec last year

I got that Nengun deal a while back. Very happy with it. It's currently $4250 delivered, plus tax/duty of course I think the 260-270rwkw with stock motor and GT-RS is more the exception than the rule though, and you'd need cams to get that power figure. I'd say 240-250 is more likely from what i've read and seen. They CAN put out up to 300rwkw - but if you are expecting to get 260 out of one you should prepare to possibly be a little disappointed. For 270ish i'd go the 2835ProS; it seems to be reliably making this sort of power. If you want HKS badge, that is. And to be fair with the GCG Hiflows - a lot of people only get 230-240rwkw with those aswell. Sure some are getting 260, but i wouldn't say it's a guaranteed figure. Maybe they have cams aswell? IMO the GCG Hiflow and the GTRS are pretty similar in response and peak power. i did a LOT of reading and enquiring around this topic not so long ago. The GTRS possibly has more in it at higher boost (18-19psi) but i only run mine at 15psi, which seems to be what most of the hiflow guys run at, for what it's worth. The 2835ProS is a slight step up again; bit more lag, bit more top end. Hope that helps a little.

near 40 degree days, hard driving, peak hour driving, temp has never budged from what it was before the blades were trimmed.

^that setup is fine. You can also use the vacuum/pressure feed going to the BOV so it doesn't run over the top of the engine. When you get an aftermarket turbo() it will probably have a nipple fitting on the compressor housing that you can use.

The GT-RS kit, for what it's worth, was a pretty easy thing to install. Turbo bolts up to the existing manifold and exhaust no probs. New oil and water lines need to be used (come with the kit) and are also pretty easy, with the exception of the water line at the back of the engine block which is a b*tch to get to. It's a solid day's work, but will net you 230-260rwkw on an RB25. Worth considering for what you say your goals are. I imagine they would be pretty responsive on an RB20, as plenty of the SR20 guys use them aswell. The GCG Hiflows (RB25) all seem to be getting similar power figures.

^ 261rwkw with a GT-RS. that looks like 17-18psi on the chart then it drops off a bit, is that about right? I made 230-240 at 15psi with pretty much the same setup. anyone know if internals are safe at 18psi? if so, might ramp mine up a bit nice one.

*cough* search *cough* *cough* drivetrain section *cough* And you might want to start by saying what sort of power you are needing this clutch to hold. Any strip work? or just hard street driving?

almost a Vs thread Without an aftermarket ECU or air converter eg SAFC he might even be lucky to get that 180rwkw. Weird order to do the mods IMO - i would have thought cams would be at the very bottom of the shopping list. And yes, at Calder you will have his car for breakfast.

^ Ah yes, forgot to add that a trusty angle grinder was required for the reo bar And you'll need a hole saw too. There's plenty of exciting new homes for your horns when you're putting everything back together. For what it's worth, when i picked up my cooler i was told that Autobarn installs them for about $100 or $150, (i can't remember exactly how much but it seemed pretty reasonable). But i'm one of those ppl that prefers to do everything himself.

Did this not long ago. I trimmed the blades before fitting it up, and in retrospect probably didn't need to. The pipe going across just behind the radiator sits up pretty high - i would try to fit without trimming, i reckon you'd come darn close. Otherwise, if you need to cut them - i just did it with wire cutters. it's only the back of the blades that needs attention, anyhow, and just a little snip at 45 degrees should do it. with the "nipple" - just plumb into either the vacuum line out of the front of the manifold (to the fuel reg) or the one that goes to the BOV. Oh and btw you won't need to cut the front fan plastic shroud, either (for the aircon fan). Whole job took about 5-6 hours, and i'm no whiz with the tools

All items are from series 2 R33 GTST All prices including postage anywhere in Australia! Make an offer!! Item: Stock AFM + plug Item Condition: Very good. Mesh intact. Working with no issues. Reason for Selling: upgraded to Z32 AFM Price: $100 delivered Item: R33 GTST ECU Item Condition: Very good. No known issues. Reason for Selling: PowerFC Price: $100 delivered Item: R33 GTST Injectors (6) Price: $100 delivered Item: Stock Side Mount Intercooler + pipes Item Condition: very good Price: $50 Location: Melbourne (Kew) Contact Details: PM or email me [email protected]

Have ECU and injectors. $200 the lot, $100 each. PM if interested.

Since I'm in the hospital trade i'll give you a tip Get the cheapest medical insurance you can that will save you save on your tax (medicare rebate) from a hospital point of view. DEFINATELY get ambulance cover, either as part of your insurance or seperately through the ambulance service. An ambulance trip will cost you $$$ like youwouldn't believe. HOSPITAL COVER - you really don't need it if you're young. Face it; if you get very ill, you will be looked after at a public hospital with the best care available. So what if you don't get a private room and silver service? I figure, if you're <50 and need to be in hospital, it's going to be for a pretty good reason, and you probably won't care about the lack of carpet on the floor. i.e. - do NOT waste your money on private hospital cover. Waste it on your car! When you're older and can afford your Audi A8/BMW 7 series, and you've got two well-groomed poodles on the back seat and your hip starts playing up after 9 holes of golf, then yes, it might be time to look for private hospital cover ANCILLARY COVER - up to you. If you have glasses/contacts, use a physio/chiro regularly, need some dental work done... well worth even going the next step up from "basic" cover, as you get more back in rebates. There are a few websites that are very good at comparing policies, and will spit out a few options for you after taking a few details: www.iselect.com.au and www.medicalpoint.com.au/healthinsurance.asp

R33 GTST series II HKS GT-RS at 15psi PowerFC Nismo 740 injectors Supra MkIV fuel pump Pod and full 3" exhaust 229rwkw, and boy was it warm today Full boost at around 3000 Ben had it up to 240kw, then softened it up a bit. Drives smooth as silk. Very happy And the figure seems about right - next step up is probably the 2835 pro S which seems to be pulling 260-280rwkw for most

http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Speedwa...sbc_manual.html ^ good guide to the Blitz SBC boost controller. Not sure which model you have but from what you are saying it sounds like this one. Also explains warning function and scramble boost. On a GTST i had Gain = 16 and Ratios were 15, 20, 30, 40 Ratio = 30 worked out to about 10psi Run the Gain too high and you overboost when it's coming on. Just crank it up little by little, when your Gain setting gets too high your boost will spike over what you want and then come down. Turn Gain back down a little until boost rises up to your desired boost level but doesn't spike over. Easy! To set it up i found it easy to set Gain low (say 5) and then get your Ratio settings right first (to get your desired peak boost level), then set Gain to make boost come on as quickly as possible without overboosting. (you really need a passenger to keep an eye on your boost gauge while you keep your eyes on the road)

"Shell Optimax Extreme is a new super-high octane fuel with a minimum octane rating of 100, the highest currently available at any Australian service station. Shell Optimax Extreme is formulated with 5% ethanol." *cough* I think you'll find it is E5, if you care to read the article closely. They used pump Optimax Extreme in this particular test, not Boost98 or E10. Correct me if i'm wrong.... edit: \/ \/ btw Kimbod i'm not advocating the use of this stuff, just reporting on what i found. I'll be sticking to "normal" 98RON and getting my car tuned as such. I don't recall ever saying "lighter = more power". I have a basic undertanding of the priciples of combustion mleh. And yes, i agree with what you're saying.

http://www.racefuels.com.au/dynoDetail.asp?ID=59 Interesting read. (Sorry if it has been linked already somewhere) Tests on an Integra Type R 1.8L showed : Ultimate 98 - 135rwkw Optimax - 133rwkw Optimax Extreme - 139rwkw Elf race fuel - 140rwkw "Assuming that a fuel has reasonable octane ratings (say min 98 RON) then the lighter the fuel (density) the greater the performance. Ethanol is quite a dense petroleum product and is unlikely to greatly improve performance, in fact in all our testing in adding 5% and 10% ethanol to all the fuels tested we saw no performance increase, if anything it acted as a detonation masking agent"

Thanks Ash. That's reassuring to know. My car is getting Racepaced in a few days, so i'm not terribly worried. Excited, though - yes! looking forward to seeing what my humble GTRS is capable of...

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...c=95914&hl=2835 ^^ you should probably have a read of that thread, too. A quick (but related) question - i too have 740cc injectors about to go in, they are waaay overkill for my setup i know. i mainly got them as i know i'll get a larger turbo one day soonish. what are the adverse effects? some shops are telling me the idle and low-load economy will be suffering. and a few others say it's not a big issue. hrmmm........

http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...howtopic=101027 free plug; didn't buy it from these guys, but i'm a happy camper

Tube and fin was also supposed to have better flow-through to your radiator. I'm sure i read that somewhere. And yes, what ^he said - better flow through the intercooler core, but less cooling ability compared to bar & plate. I did a lot of reading on this a while back. And i also got tube & fin