r32-25t

Silver shouldn't be to hard to find, I personally love the white but for some reason I'm loving white cars at the moment

Also had time for a while I'm in there job And the new stud and the old bolt next to each other

i don't have any photos of the vin but will take a photo of it tomorrow and send it in a pm

This list is awesome, your commitment to your work is very appreciated by all, also there are 5 vins cause Bnr32-224507 also has no records found

And all the old springs out on the table

Then out comes the lifter Out comes the retainer And the new and old spring side by side

And then removed the cam caps and cams All still factory

A couple days after picking the car up I took the wife for a drive and when I gave it a boot full the revs came up to 5-6,000 then power started to disappear and it got to 7,000 and just sat there. Basically it had the classic signs of valve float of corse that now meant more work for me but lucky for me I had a set of upgraded valve springs sitting around that didn't work in a previous build due to the seats being cut in that head. Of corse first things first the timing belt and covers all had to come off

this is what really needs to happen or give businesses incentives to move west. There are places like parramatta and maquarie park but everyone seems to be staying in the cbd at the moment

Nismo twin plate is that best clutch in the market, drive like a factory clutch and has been proven to hold 475kw at the wheels

Could have sworn he has already been warned of this

-9 runs out at 320-330 on 98

A 2530 and a -5 are very close to each other in terms of response and power that can be achieved, going from 2530s to -5s is more of a sidewides step. The only bigger bolt on is the -10/gtrs but it well documented that are terrible turbos and really don't work on anything under a 3L Your other option is do the same as everyone else and go with a modern big single, which allows you to have great response and great power

To see 350 out of -7s you're going to need an exhaust that's bigger then the one you currently have, run e85 and lean on the boost. You probably also need a crank trigger system so that you tuner can lean on the timing a lot more Also 350 is going to be your limit with -7s even with e85

Looks amazing, I am going to have to get in contact with Eugene

One of the best you can do to these cars is change all the heater hoses, other wise you know your going to get stuck in the most inconvenient place imaginable

have you driven both for a good length of time? Have you worked on both?

yep thats the last of the 2L

theyre fine on the track, no where near the oil control problems of the rb26, but like any car fit a bigger sump and baffle for the extra piece of mind.The under steer issue can be fixed one of 2 ways, either upgrade the rear sway bar and leave the front one but to me that a compromise as you are taking away rear grip to compensate for the front not having enough. I believe the better way to do it is to fit a front lsd, which gives the front more grip and doesn't take any away from the rear

The 05 is considered the holy grail of the sti (apart from the 22b) it has the closed deck 2L, the 6spd, adjustable center diff and the bigger wheel bearings If spending 35-40 I'd either grab a 2012/2013 spec r or if you shop well a 2015 sti (current shape)

Go the sti/wrx, cheap on parts and easy to work on, the sti six speed won't break with anything under 400kw and the wrx 5spd is fine under 250kw provided it's shown some mechanical sympathy The other advantage is pretty much every Subaru model has interchangeable parts, so any good part another model has that yours doesn't, can easily be bolted into your car

The Gtr versions only fit on rb26s

Ask in the "vins you want fasted" thread as there are people in there that do it all the time

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Is the club going to decide who's cars it's going to allow in its stand or anyone that enters will be in the club stand?