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Everything posted by soviet_merlin
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All my Polish car culture insight comes from watching Nightride. So I half expect this to get 1UZ swapped eventually?! Are you going to drive it in winter? I'm always curious how ATTESA would hold up in the snow. There isn't that much opportunity to try it in Australia.
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Hah, fair enough! But if you learn with this one you can drive any other OEM manual. No modern luxury features like auto rev-matching or hillstart assist to give you a false sense of confidence. And a heavy car with not that much torque so it stalls easily.
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Actually, I'd say all three are the automatic option. Just the different trim levels. The manual would be RSFS, no?
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What Duncan said sounds right. Also, it looks like they only have the driver's mat. Not the rest. Because looking at the diagram: KG4911 is just the mat for the driver. KG4900 is the full set if I'm not mistaken and discontinued. But, it looks like they may still have the full set for the manual S2. Might be worth checking for the other models as well as they seem slightly different. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/nissan-japan/stagea/wgnc34/6649-rb25det/misc/G49 Man, I'm tempted.
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I'd be very surprised if you can buy new OEM mats. But if you can, I want some too! Do you have links to the variations you found? Also, where are you located? I found that Nengun is happy to list items to purchase but when you do buy them you'll get an email that it's actually discontinued. As far as I know the variations in floor mats are different colour schemes as well as automatic and manual having a slightly different shape. The automatic ones fit into a manual car without issues, but I think you'd have trouble fitting the other way around. I have photos that show the shape difference if you care. FWIW I bought sets of used floor mats in decent condition at yahoo auctions.
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Ethanol Content Sensor - Always at 11%?
soviet_merlin replied to TurboTapin's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
Oh, you are right. But, in Australia E10 is based on 91RON fuel and ends up being 94RON. Hence it being the cheaper option for economy cars. The more performance oriented cars go for the 98RON fuel that has no ethanol mixed in. The only step up we have left then at some petrol stations is E85. -
Ethanol Content Sensor - Always at 11%?
soviet_merlin replied to TurboTapin's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
Hmmm, interesting. Makes me wonder whether there is bias as well. It's the cheapest fuel, so it is used for all kinds of ill-maintained shitboxes which are bound to have issues regardless. Nicer cars tend to require higher octane rated fuel and can't use it anyway. FWIW, the official NSW E10 facts page is decent. -
Out of curiosity, how do officials determine what the OEM ride height and suspension specs are? Do they have a book of truth? I'd think that would be quite obscure knowledge for random JDM cars.
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Ethanol Content Sensor - Always at 11%?
soviet_merlin replied to TurboTapin's topic in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)
Here E10 is the cheapest fuel. And general advice is to not use it unless you hate your car. From what I remember it clogs up stuff in the fuel system or injectors? With US/Canada being E10 across the board, does that mean that all fuel there is terrible? -
Nice one, I'd argue that the white S1 RS260 is certainly the best looking of the Stageas. And yes, fully agree on the forum situation. It's a bit of a shame, but at least SAU is a good place to be. I found the facebook groups to give me FOMO because people were trying to one-up each other and show off in some way. Feels much more natural here. There are people with seriously nice builds, but I can appreciate it rather than it making me question my life choices. Might be that people are more open with sharing how much work/money/suffering it takes to actually get there.
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Holy shit, I'm glad you brought up the battery issue and I'm glad I asked about measuring it. Old battery was at a healthy 12.82V in the morning with the car turned off. Removed the fuel pump fuse, clamped the multimeter on at min/max/average and cranked for ~3 seconds. It dropped down to 8.30V. So yeah, not surprising it struggled that much. Picked up a fresh battery from supercheap and it's ridiculous. Haven't done a cold start yet, but man, even with a warm start the difference is night and day. I can't believe I lived with this for so long. Just blamed it on it being an old modified car. Went with Century because convenient. If they are shit it'll be a future me problem. But just in case I set up a reminder for 30 months - 8 weeks to check on the battery state and get a warranty replacement if necessary.
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Thanks! Supercheap has a sale on this weekend so might be a good opportunity to get a new one. I do have a decent multimeter so I'll give it a try either way. Hah, you got me! I do not. All I know is that the battery holds charge and sits at an okay level before I start the car. Doing the full charge and rejuvenation cycle on a trickle-charger seems to not really make a difference to the cold start behaviour. I'll try and measure it during cranking and see what it does. It's likely terrible; it certainly feels terrible. I'll be happy if it is really just the battery and I don't have to dick around with the alternator or starter motor.
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Hmmm, what do you mean by getting weaker? And where did you get that test done? I've been wondering about my battery because the cold starts crank super slowly. The voltage is fine. Not sure if cranking amps can be checked at home. Battery is 4+ years old.
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Any difference in induction noise?
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Dumb rich kid tries modding for the first time
soviet_merlin replied to Hexi's topic in Introduce yourself
If I got a dollar for every flipped commuter missile I've driven past I'd have two dollars Some people get into wild adventures on the road and I doubt it's gender or ethnicity specific. I'm just glad I don't usually drive during peak times. -
Oof, I will forevermore have those shredded gears in mind whenever someone talks about showing mechanical sympathy towards their car. Thanks for the photos, fascinating stuff!
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The problem as I see it is that it would be easy to go from shitbox to a BMW, but hard to go back if you don't like it. Because all the shitboxes have had 25 years of messing around, and you'd lose all the work put into the previous one. Whenever I think about this, I want to buy a car to see if I actually like it. And not sell the shitbox until I make up my mind. But I don't have the money, so staying with the shitbox it is 🤷♂️
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Did you see Jez's posts recently? https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/377489-the-evolution-of-night-fury/page/33/#findComment-8002017
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Mistakes were made, my R34 Story
soviet_merlin replied to Kinkstaah's topic in Members Cars, Project Overhauls & Restorations
Think of it as understated excellence. Please post some photos when around Tasmania. Should be plenty of space there. Did you change bodyshops? I'm pretty sure it hasn't been half a year since you dropped it off -
SAU NSW - Old Pac Cruise to Newcastle All Japan Day 2025
soviet_merlin replied to Keeper's topic in Events
Sounds like a good one! Part of me goes "Oof, now we have to get up so early" but then also "This is the best time to drive when there is no traffic!". So, yeah, bought my ticket and am looking forward to it! -
R32 Nostalgia
soviet_merlin replied to funkymonkey's topic in Members Cars, Project Overhauls & Restorations
Huh, a racing spec Primera? Brings back memories from Toca Race Driver. Love pretty much all those touring cars. Though I thought they were FWD so maybe not. -
Stick a Nissan sticker on the haltech?
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R32 Nostalgia
soviet_merlin replied to funkymonkey's topic in Members Cars, Project Overhauls & Restorations
For some reason the photos aren't loading...?! -
Ooo, sounds handy! Is the blueprint available somewhere online?