soviet_merlin

Nice one, I'd argue that the white S1 RS260 is certainly the best looking of the Stageas. And yes, fully agree on the forum situation. It's a bit of a shame, but at least SAU is a good place to be. I found the facebook groups to give me FOMO because people were trying to one-up each other and show off in some way. Feels much more natural here. There are people with seriously nice builds, but I can appreciate it rather than it making me question my life choices. Might be that people are more open with sharing how much work/money/suffering it takes to actually get there.

Holy shit, I'm glad you brought up the battery issue and I'm glad I asked about measuring it. Old battery was at a healthy 12.82V in the morning with the car turned off. Removed the fuel pump fuse, clamped the multimeter on at min/max/average and cranked for ~3 seconds. It dropped down to 8.30V. So yeah, not surprising it struggled that much. Picked up a fresh battery from supercheap and it's ridiculous. Haven't done a cold start yet, but man, even with a warm start the difference is night and day. I can't believe I lived with this for so long. Just blamed it on it being an old modified car. Went with Century because convenient. If they are shit it'll be a future me problem. But just in case I set up a reminder for 30 months - 8 weeks to check on the battery state and get a warranty replacement if necessary.

Thanks! Supercheap has a sale on this weekend so might be a good opportunity to get a new one. I do have a decent multimeter so I'll give it a try either way. Hah, you got me! I do not. All I know is that the battery holds charge and sits at an okay level before I start the car. Doing the full charge and rejuvenation cycle on a trickle-charger seems to not really make a difference to the cold start behaviour. I'll try and measure it during cranking and see what it does. It's likely terrible; it certainly feels terrible. I'll be happy if it is really just the battery and I don't have to dick around with the alternator or starter motor.

Hmmm, what do you mean by getting weaker? And where did you get that test done? I've been wondering about my battery because the cold starts crank super slowly. The voltage is fine. Not sure if cranking amps can be checked at home. Battery is 4+ years old.

Any difference in induction noise?

If I got a dollar for every flipped commuter missile I've driven past I'd have two dollars Some people get into wild adventures on the road and I doubt it's gender or ethnicity specific. I'm just glad I don't usually drive during peak times.

Oof, I will forevermore have those shredded gears in mind whenever someone talks about showing mechanical sympathy towards their car. Thanks for the photos, fascinating stuff!

The problem as I see it is that it would be easy to go from shitbox to a BMW, but hard to go back if you don't like it. Because all the shitboxes have had 25 years of messing around, and you'd lose all the work put into the previous one. Whenever I think about this, I want to buy a car to see if I actually like it. And not sell the shitbox until I make up my mind. But I don't have the money, so staying with the shitbox it is 🤷‍♂️

Did you see Jez's posts recently? https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/377489-the-evolution-of-night-fury/page/33/#findComment-8002017

Think of it as understated excellence. Please post some photos when around Tasmania. Should be plenty of space there. Did you change bodyshops? I'm pretty sure it hasn't been half a year since you dropped it off

Man, I'm kind of amazed that the price of the turbo has not changed in 7 years. Everything else is inflating beyond reason, but not this? Good on Tao / hypergear I guess? Anyways, good luck with the sale!

Sounds like a good one! Part of me goes "Oof, now we have to get up so early" but then also "This is the best time to drive when there is no traffic!". So, yeah, bought my ticket and am looking forward to it!

Huh, a racing spec Primera? Brings back memories from Toca Race Driver. Love pretty much all those touring cars. Though I thought they were FWD so maybe not.

Stick a Nissan sticker on the haltech?

For some reason the photos aren't loading...?!

Ooo, sounds handy! Is the blueprint available somewhere online?

I think both of you missed the actual point of the thread and question asked by Kapr: The video is just an example and not his channel.

Oof, 90l fuel capacity sounds amazing!

Oof, I don't think you should add it up like that! It sounds much better at $21 per issue. I don't see any problem there if you enjoy the process and the result. I really like the magazine side of it with all the little tidbits and facts. Also, if anything, these forums are all about spending unreasonable amounts of money on hobbys. I wouldn't call it a self-help group because people generally suggest to spend more

You put the driver's seat on the wrong side! Incredible detail on all of this. It looks like you could learn a lot about the car just from assembling the kit.

Love this so much! Please post a photo when you have a bike on the trailer. I was a little bit worried about having a tow bar on the Skyline, but having it hidden behind the number plate is genius

So, why the penalties and how does the Kia fit into this? Was it bought with the intention of taking it on track? I'd say the cooling holding up by itself already sounds like a huge win.

Man, different parts but the same numbers is terrible @dbm7! And it doesn't help that most online shops don't list the part numbers at all. They just give a list of compatible models...

One year is a bit concerning. Did you try contacting GSP? It says 5 year warranty on the box if I remember correctly. I'm also running their driveshafts on my S2 Stagea. You could check the part numbers on Amayama for your year. Here's the link for my 1998 which gives the 39100-23U60 part number. Well, that and 39100-23U70. https://www.amayama.com/en/genuine-catalogs/epc/nissan-japan/stagea/wgnc34/6649-rb25det/trans/391 What does it say for yours?

I'm with Kinkstaah on this one. Do it once, do it right. So much better for your mental health. The sneaky thing about the fuel pump wiring is that it will work perfectly fine for the longest time. Until that one moment when it decides to shit the bed. And it's not worth the paranoia from not trusting the car anymore. At least other mechanical issues announce themselves by developing some noise or other warning. If you have the funds, I'd suggest to go with a good kit like Frenchys and get the work done by a trustworthy shop. No regrets there. The only downside to the Frenchys kit on the Stagea/R32 GTR is that their fuel level sender is not on point. But looks like the R33 kit maintains the factory sender so should not be an issue. This is what the botched setup on my Stagea looked like before it stopped working. It had melted its way quite a distance down. Glad it didn't burn down the car. Some links I came across when I looked for solutions: Radium sells a DIY wiring kit that looks promising. I didn't buy it though, I let my workshop decide on wiring. https://www.prospeedracing.com.au/products/radium-diy-fuel-pump-hard-wiring-kit-17-0031 https://www.radiumauto.com/DIY-Fuel-Pump-Wiring-Kit-P368.aspx You can also get cheap replacements for the locking ring depending on how mangled it looks: https://www.kudosmotorsports.com/Nissan-17343-79900-Fuel-Tank-Outlet-Locking-Ring-for-Nissan-S14-S15-BNR32-R33-R34-AWC34 There are tools for unscrewing it as well so you don't have to abuse it with a screwdriver and mallet. The Frenchys one is expensive but I'm sure there are cheaper ones.