Crimpage

These settings also go for a non turbo? Sorry, didnt see this question asked already...

I agree, I can't believe how many people pour money into a car then don't secure it properly. I'm into car audio, and the extra feature I installed with my alarm was 2 screamers. Basically they are the little white alarms you see on the ceiling in buildings that can put out a 120db screech. Most alarms these days have extra 12v rails use can use for options. If you have a worthy car stereo, I would recommend a screamer (you normally only need one... ). Crimpage.

Great. All checks out for me! Thanks r0ma!

Hi All, Could I please get someone to FAST check this VIN for me. Cheers. VIN: 6U90000ER34027703 Crimpage.

Hi All, I have an R32 which came from the factory with an RB25DE... Just wondering if that means the rest of the drivetrain etc would be what was release with the R33's... ? Reason: I'm thinking about doing an engine swap with an RB25DET or RB25DET Neo and wondering if I will need to replace drivetrain or whatever... ?? Any clues would be great. Thanks, Crimpage.

My R32 uses the R33 pads... My 32 came factory with RB25DE tho so thats probably why...

Anexiole: Why talk to my audio shop ?

Xizor: The mongoose alarm will use the factory central locking system to give you keyless entry...

If it was RCA's shorting, it would probably make a scratching noise where as "engine noise" is a whirring sort of sound that you will notice is in time with the car's RPM. Things to check for: 1. Power cables too close to RCA's 2. Check that you have earthed the amp's properly. make sure to scratch away the paint underneath any amp mounting points. Apparently vaseline is good to help with earth conduction and also help prevent it rusting where you have removed the paint. 3. failing all that, try getting a noise suppressor for the altenator. Crimpage.

Yeah dont get the NA. I have a R32 with an RB35DE (factory) and I want a turbo now... I'm in the same boat, that now I'm looking to upgrade to a R34, I want a turbo, but really only have a budget for an NA... So I will be waiting a few months I guess...

My mates VS Commodore is jinxed... Its had just about everything fixed or replaced. He had huge fuel problems with it getting about 300K from a full tank... spent probably $1500 trying to get that fixed and it went up a little bit, but not before the engine shagged itself at about 150,000K. So got the VT Ecotec put in there and extractors, exhaust and suspension done all at the same time... Had had probably 4 problems with exhaust comming loose and bolts coming out of it, had power steering problems... The works... Not a bag to all holdens but I know this one is deffinately jinxed!

The 18mm socket is the easiest... I had the same thing happen to me just before christmas, and i needed to be able to get my wheels off cause I was going on a 1000KM round trip drive... However because I was at work, I got my GF to take it to a wheels shop and for $35 (cost of a new set of locknuts) the guy got them off and put the new ones on... Took 10 minutes - Crimpage

Could be a short that is causing your amp to go into protect mode. Once upon a time... I used to have a set of 6x9's that used to make a short screech then stop for a bit, then come back on and do it again... turned out to be a problem with the coils in the speakers that were causing it. See if you can turn the stereo on, and jiggle the wires, as there should be some indicator of protect mode on your amp that you should be able to see.

A couple of things I have picked up along the way... The general way to install tweeters is to put the in the far corners of the dash, where the windscreen meets... the reason for this is it raises the sound stage and makes it sound like they are playing just in front of you... which most sounds places will tell you that "this is the way the music is intented to be recreated". With that, I have found that doing that will make the treble sound kinda scratchy and sharp... sometimes good and sometimes bad... but this can be helped by turning the treble down a notch or maybe two. - Crimpage

hahaha. common mistake.... Hat car tho.

Alright, seeing as I am in the market for another Skyline, I have been looking up on all this as well... I'll tell you how it goes... 1. REVS Check When someone takes out a loan for the car, they have the option to get a "secured" loan, which means, if they can't pay the repayments on it, then they give permission for the bank to take and sell the car to get their money back. So, if they owe money on the car still and sell it to you. Then stop paying their repayments, the bank is well within their rights to come and take your nice new car, and sell it. Leaving you with nothing more than a bank loan... not good. Requires 2 identifiers. VIN & Rego = easiest. 2. Nissan FAST Software This can tell you all the specs about the car they way it left the factory. Engine type, Paint colour, interior, options etc... If you notice that it left the factory being gunmetal grey, and its now white... watch out... Basically, use this to make sure everything matches the way it is now, to the way it left the factory. Now, someone might just not like gunmetal, but it might have also been in a pran and been resprayed, or been resprayed in aus / japan as a "rebirth". These are the two best things to check... I wouldn't buy a skyline without doing it. Otherwise, there is a great writeup on here about things to check when buying a new skyline... But I can't remember who did it, or where it is :| but wont take long to find / have someone post a link to it - Crimpage

I'm a network admin at a finance company... Only been here 3 months so the pay isnt the greatest... yet! B) Just savin money driving a R32 NA (got an RB25DE tho ), but gonna get a 33 GTS-T and put about 4k of mods on it straight away... Dave.

The addon will allow you to control the boost and everything regarding it like A/F ratios etc all from the one thing. Instead of specifying the boost per RPM on the AVC-R then matching it on the PowerFC... I would probably run it that way to keep shit easier... but essentially, they are both doing the same thing, just using 2 different systems to do it. There may be other things the PFC can do with regards to boost control that the AVC-R cant...

I'm sure it will have a multitude of gadgets... Skylines weren't made as a race car, they were made as a tourer... Its like comparing a GSXR bike to a holden goldwing... The goldwing has a reverse gear and SPEAKERS!!!... Anywho, they will probably deck it out to make nice long "tours" in the car more comfortable, and make you feel like you havent left the house... So look out for the dishwasher and ironing board...

Straight to an auto elec... could be a million things... Could be an earth, could be a multitude of fuses... Sorry I can't give you any specific help.

When grounding your amps, make sure the ground wire actually touches metal... So sand off any paint in that little section around the bolt you are grounding it with... Also, my skyline did not come with ... something i cant think of the name now... a little box thing that bolts to the altenator and helps to stop altenator whine... If someone can think of the name, please post it... But I had to pull one of a VK Commodore which fixed up a similar problem for me... - Crimpage.

Blaupunkt are pretty good. They will rival most other brands out there at the moment. I would especially take it if they are a sponser and that stuff is cheap / free... One thing tho... I wouldn't use a 400W amp on a 1200W sub... You are always best to have more power than needed when powering a sub. Otherwise you will find that the amp will either go into protect mode (when up loud) or the amp will start to distort before the sub does and will try to make the sub reproduce its lovely distored sounds and cause damage to the sub. - Crimpage

Turn the music down... no just kidding... Yeah sound deadening works a little bit, but its normally connections that will cause the problems... the number plate, sections where a body kit touches other pannels... all those sorts of this... You can get a foam which is kinda like shaving cream with a nozzle like on WD40 and other degreasers to get into sections like that, and it goes stiff and can reduce some rattles... But I would only do this if you dont ever plan on removing any of those sections later... - Crimpage

I think some head units will try to recreate some of the bass lost in radio transmissions, which is why some headunits make the radio bassier than others... My alpine is a lot bassier on the radio than a cd, but so much so that it sounds like crap. I also know, that all the Brisbane radio stations are shit too... especially the new morning crew on all B105, Triple M and Nova... All of them like to share with you every morning how ignorant they are and how cool it is to be a dumbshit...

There will only be just enough power going to it to just run the clock. There is no way it will use enough power to drain your battery. Most head units will keep a small amount of power going to it so you can eject the cd while the car is off...