Al

Big thanks to Mav for letting me ride shotgun. Awesome cruise, wish my car was there . Congrates to everyone on a great turn out, considering all the variables that worked against this event (date change, shite weather, massive accident on the Monash, etc) the turn out was great. Big thanks to Wayne for plotting the cruise and organising it all! See you all next time

Do not compare Just Jap China quality to ARC, Blitz or Greddy. Sure if you are after a cheap cooler, go Just Jap, i did (just core, no piping). But if you are considering quality items stay with quality. ARC or Blitz in my opinion. All depends how much "second hand" the ARC is.

I would choose the ARC. The turn flow will connect to your std ic pipes in the engine bay, which means you don't drill any huge holes through the car, which is a headache to clear if you get defected. ARC make awesome coolers and are very efficient.

Looks tough Tai You still keeping the 32R gunmetal or have you been tinkering with the car lately?

Another option is a HKS GTRS. I found this to be the best "all rounder" on an rb25. Nice and responsive, yet capable of making 250-280rwkw, depending on other supportive mods. Or do what i did: Build a strong rb30 bottom end, bolt on the 25 head, add cams, manifold, plenum, etc and attach the smallest recommended turbo; a GT30R. Full boost (currently 15psi) by 2800rpm and will make 300+rwkw. My setup is still in run-in tune, so time will tell how aggressive it gets with 5psi more boost, more timing, better tune and adjusting the cam gears. Not sure why people swap to smaller capacity engines, sure it's twin cam but cubes count for a lot too. The difference between my current rb30 setup and my previous rb25 setup is HUGE and the engine is still in run-in tune.

Hey Brisby, Do you have the same graph using rpm on the x-axis instead of speed?

Done! Good find Bec Come on people vote!

Sorry for the late reply Chris, never received notification of your reply in this thread. In my experience the clear coat, added on top of the colour powder coat, has more of an orange peel finish.

That's a VIC thing, don't think the other states have an idea what you're on about, hell i didn't till you cleared it up.........slightly But welcome anyway Become an SAU VIC member, just like all the other WRX members that have differed to our club, so that i could kick your ass at DECA

A gain of a pound or two is acceptable 7psi (std) + 2psi = 9psi His boost is creeping well past his desired 11psi so that's at least a 5psi increase, something else is causing it. From his accounts it keeps creeping with rpm and even has blown his ic hosing off his ic pipes, that doesn't happen at 12psi

You dump pipe could certainly be the cause. A poorly designed split dump pipe may be interfering with the internal gate, not allowing it to open fully, thus making the boost creep. To check unhinge the boost actuator off the gate arm. and open/close the gate through it's full 90deg motion, make sure it doesn't interfere with anything and is very loose and smooth to move. Another problem is: If the split pipe is too small or doesn't merge cleanly with the exhaust pipe, you'll also get boost creep. I heard too many problems with split pipes (but i heard just as many without faults) and can not justify the gain for the trouble, i have always stuck with a "bell-mouth" dump and have never has an issue.

Why is the std loom removed? Is the Autronic sm4 a "plug-in" ecu? Honestly, i wouldn't have an idea on the technical side of ecu's/wiring/etc, but if the ecu is not a plug-in type i doubt that will work , as equipment often need to be calibrated to gages for them to work accurately.

Wise words there Brisby; couldn't agree more I have attached a comparison between my 25 and 30 set-up. The 30 has a bigger turbo (530hp compared to 380hp) so on the same engine, bottom end torque would be less; but look at the attached graph and note how much torque is gained at 90km/h, in 4th gear. Double the 25 set-up! and this is in run in tune. But i have to admit this is VERY tractable and does not tend to kick the arse end out unexpectedly/violently (in a straight line anyway). Keep the foot 3/4 buried and the wheels start squealing at about 5000rpm, in second gear; But you have better, wider tyres.

From the sound of things you like having a little too much fun in your car. So instead of re-conditioning you std diff why not take the opportunity to upgrade to a mechanical LSD, something like a 1.5way Kaaz or Nismo. This is just the center, you'll still need to change the drive gears. Or you could find a 2nd hand diff assembly that already has a mechanical LSD diff fitted.

But clamp load only effects pedal feel slightly, the pivot point is really the main factor. But there has also been great developments in making heavy duty clutches have a lighter pedal feel, yet have a larger clamp load. PS: A lighter flywheel actually makes it harder to take off. After my Excedy twin i purchased an Xtreme single H/D and a light weight flywheel, another mate also bought the same clutch after driving mine, but kept the std flywheel; his was easier to drive. My Xtreme H/D held 275rwkw without slip; after 1.5yrs use (weekend car), 1 drag day (6,300rpm launches on drag slicks), a few motorkhanas, dyno days and club cruises it only wore 0.4mm from new (7.8mm). I have only recently upgraded to a Nismo twin plate as i have just built a well spec'ed rb30det and plan to do alot more motorsport. The Nismo Super Coppermix is an awesome clutch, the most comfortable one i have driven to date and is the most strongest (HP rating) one i have owned.

GREAT POINT!! Spot on. Not sure how i forgot that. I had a twin plate Exedy clutch, that had a very light pedal feel but was way too bitey and overkill for my stockish set-up. After a year or so i got fed up with all the stalling and sold it to a mate that was making more power, at the time. When installed in my car, my mechanic fitted a smaller "pivot ring" to match the clutch. When i sold the clutch to my mate, i did not know this or had the pivot ring and he just fitted the std size ring, this made the clutch pedal at least 2.5 heavier. Luckily for me a friend drove my car with the same clutch and then drove his and commented how damn heavy the clutch felt in his car. A smaller pivot ring pushes the pressure plate fingers closer towards the middle, closer to the edge of the fingers.

100% wrong mate.A heavy duty clutch can mean various things - more aggressive clutch material - high clamp load - etc But due to new technologies, H/D clutches no longer mean heavy clutch pedal. If fact you have to specially order a clutch if you want that heavy clutch pedal feeling, from most good brands anyway. Is the clutch more "bitey" than the std clutch you had? Are you able to "ride" it as much?

I could assure you mine does not stick out 2" from the head, just the thickness of that fitting. Had no issues fitting and removing the engine, with that fitting, but mine is an R33 GTST

Disagree! Bronze or a gunmetal finish

Not sure what you term as big, but this is how mine has been done.

I've had no problems with my standard tacho, using an aftermarket ecu (wolf 3D). Are you sure something else isn't farked up? Have you tried your cluster or ecu on another car?

boostin: Definitely at the front, but move it up a little so the plate sits just below the upper edge. Mikka: Clean looking car mate

Congrates AJ! Great to hear all involved are doing fine, all the best!

Not 100% sure if these are XD9's, but you get an idea how they look. Car pictured is also a midnight purple GTR, but hard to see due to an overcast day. Looks tough as in person. I also love the 57pro's; either way you go it wont be a bad decision

Oh man you're the coolest! pfffft.....................