Rolls

I just bought an R34 motor instead, R32 is a lighter car so will go faster. I kind of wish I had an R34 interior though, nice car!

Can hear my mates BB turbo quite loudly if he revs it and immediately shuts the car down.

It is true though. I just confused the time period duty cycle was talking to, the behaviour of the injector is the same. After 85% ish it doesn't get time to close properly and is essentially completely open.

and Im pretty sure cops and regency troll this thread and forum. I mean if your job was a cop and you had a chip on your shoulder about 'hoons', wouldn't this be the first place you'd check?

Next time look up the relevant ADRs or call up whoever in your state does your defect inspections and ask them. They aren't illegal. The only way it would be illegal is it if you modified structural components of the car or mounted it on the front of your bumper so it could cause injury.

Over 80% the fuel injector is basically static anyway so you don't continue to get a linear increase in fuel delivery over 80-90%. You ultimately don't want to be running much higher than 60-70% duty cycle.

They are both average, the XR6 would be a nicer car to drive imo as it has far more torque. Comparing average to average, the answer is buy a non average car lol.

I learnt something last night. I was always under the impression the duty cycle refered to the duty during the pulse width and the injector was PWMd during this time. Turns out it is just simply pulsed on and the duty cycle refers to the % on out of any given time window. I feel stupid, assumed it was more complex than it really is.

My mate had one of the cleanest mintest R32s I've ever seen, brand new perfect paint job, very stock looking, rb25 turbo, 9.5" rims, return flow intercooler, immaculate interior, everything about the car was mint. He listed it for $10k for well over 6 months and had something like 2 tyre kickers. As much as I hate to say it, probably only $8k as most people aren't after an immaculate mint example, they just want an R32.

edited ignore what I said.

haha all good.

I committed no fraud! It was completely legal! The car was backed into and had the panel, radiator support and headlight smashed in, the insurance company came out and and assesed it and said it was a financial write off and would pay me out $2.2k for it, I then bought the wreck back for $300, spent $80 on a new bumper and headlight and continued to drive it legally as it was still roadworthy, it just has some panel damage and the radiator support is still bent. They don't mark cars that old as 'written off' so there was completely legal to leave it still registered.

I guess if you could get the injectors to pulse more often or you modified the pulsewidth it could be possible, that or using an aftermarket fuel regulator.

What is 'close loop' injections? As in different type of batch fire or something that means the injectors pulse more often?

Painting the IC black looks better imo as well, not a fan of shiny bling car parts.

Hence why it "has to be more than 30cm from nearest opening. " eg 30cm behind the last window.

Doesn't even have to start and move, just need the old papers lol. In fact you can quite easily register a non existent car if you wanted, providing it had been registered in the past 3 years I think. I had my 1993 barina 'written off' due to an accident, I got a new panel and headlight and continued driving it, didn't even need to renew the registration as it was up to me to cancel it an inform them it had been 'written off'. Got the payout and then reinsured it with the same company. SA is great for some things, but if you get defected here, they completely f**k you over.

If you live in SA we don't have RWC lol!

230kw is about the max you would get out of a stock 25 setup.

Nope, your car already has an intercooler, it is just a bigger one, why would it be illegal?

Nothing illegal about a FMIC, no issue what so ever.

If you aren't running a front mount then running 14psi is a waste of time, especially if you haven't had the car tuned. You will just be running very rich and retarded making barely any extra power and using a lot more fuel. With the stock tune the car is extremely safe due to how rich it runs (down to 10:1 and lower) it also runs absolutely bugger all timing so highly unlikely to break anything from the extra boost. The only thing that may break is the turbo due to the ceramic wheel, however you will only break it if you are holding 14psi close to redline and then holding it there for extended periods of time (high speed runs, track days etc). I personally would get a FMIC, a tune and enjoy the extra torque that running ~12 psi gives you, I have a hard time believing tha tit is actually running 14psi with no bleed valve. The stock gauge isn't very accurate and it also suffers from parallax error if you are reading it off the dash. Get a proper boost gauge if you want to know how much boost it is really running. The only thing that could cause it to run 14psi without a bleed valve is an old frayed or split wastegate line. This is the hose that runs from the nipple on the compressor housing to the wastegate actuator, if it is split it wil be acting like a bleed valve, this could be a disaster as if it comes off completely you will run 'infinite' boost popping your turbo and possibly your motor. So things to do: Check the wastegate line is not split or old. If in doubt replace it, costs $1 for a piece of vacuum hose. If nothing changes get a boost gauge, or go to a performance workshop and get them to hook one up on the dyno, verifying how much boost you are actually running, eg 14psi spike then 10psi at redline, or 14psi the whole way etc. If it is the later you need to fix it. Get a FMIC Get the car tuned via a nistune daughterboard or an aftermarket ECU so that the extra boost actually makes more torque.

Buy one already done, then spend a few k getting it up to your standard, that way it is the way you want it and it didn't cost a bucket. If you buy one and mod it yourself it is such a money pit. The other option is to buy a defected car or a GTR with a blown motor and do the engine swap yourself, this way you save massively on the buy price however you have to be capable of doing the work yourself.

If you aren't running a bleed valve you can't make your boost lower, you can only make it higher. You would need to change your wastegate actuator to run lower boost. Get a boost gauge on there, if it is only running 12psi then there is no issue, if it is spiking to 14 then dropping back to 12 it isn't that bad. If you are running 14 all the time then you should do something about it.

Neil will defect you no matter what you do.