Rolls

I always thought you'd be seeing those temps on full load. How can you get EGT's up around 700+ on cruise? I get that leaner = hotter, but surely you are burning maybe 5% of the overall fuel you are burning at WOT, where does all the heat come from?

Isn't it more like driving in 1st gear, or say 4th gear? Or say driving up a really steep hill?

It is your setup that has issues.

280kw is the max I would aim for on 98 with a 2.5L to retain some sort of response, I personally think his 250-260kw turbos would be much more fun around town and would feel a lot faster. Only if you are tracking the car regularly would I aim much over this, or run it on E85 and make 280kw with the 260kw turbos.

If it is a street car go the smaller one, trying to hit 4k at wot in traffic to get on boost just makes you look like a dickhead.

They aren't brand new and hence have mild tears and cracks in them, hence they are are not compliant.

Everyone who goes through with non brand new bushes and boots gets done for them. Every single person.

My cold start values were f**ked on my nistune, meant zero ignition advance, I could build ~1psi in idle at 2500rpm with about half throttle. Would get massive compressor surge and 5psi+ trying to cruise at 60kph with a 250kw highflow.

It was a fairly entertaining video at least.

Do an oil analysis, make sure the oil is at least 3000kms old, it will tell you if you have blowby, bearing wear etc, this will be a great way to tell if it is on its last legs.

If the solenoid isn't clicking, then it obviously isn't moving and hence it isn't working. Isn't that fairly obvious lol?

I honestly don't think that's an issue, sounds like your TCS won't work but most people would pull the fuse anyway, in fact check the TCS fuse, I bet someone has already pulled it to do burnouts as it sounds like some loser was the previous owner with the gay atmo BOV and everything else being broken. Drive it now and see what your economy is like, and tell us how do you drive it, do you drive it with a few boosts now and then, or do you drive it like you are on a racetrack, as if it is the later it would explain the 200kms to a tank. Also does it blow much black smoke? Get someone to drive behind you and take off hard in 1st and second.

Yep disconnect for say 30 minutes and put a weight on the brake pedal for a minute, pressing it for 10 seconds is all you really need but it doesn't hurt. So after a reset and plugging consult in you only get error code 17 now? What does error code 17 say or indicate has failed? You can plug your boost controller back in once you have diagnosed and fixed all your problems, it might not but it will possibly make diagnosing the issues more difficult and you want to fix the car don't you?

With the VCT it is wired permanently to +12v and it switches the ground, at least that is how I thought it worked.

Remove it until your problems are all sorted, running more boost could make it harder to diagnose. Have you removed the BOV yet? Also run consult now and tell me what all the error codes are after you have fixed the issues you noted.

The issue with setups like that is it is nothing nothing, wheelspin! So you never really get a good shove in the set unless you have awesome tyres.

Very laggy, but looks like a hell of a lot of fun!

There was a really nice piece of kit someone was using on here, individual cylinder EGT probes, basically comes with a special gasket that they are part of. Wasn't cheap though, something like $1500 for it and the data logging hardware/software it came with.

Maxing your afm out, does that make it hard to tune?

Ah yep, makes sense.

What do you mean mid 120s?

What exhaust are you running? Could you drop it to see what the difference is?

which basically defeats the purpose of it.

What rpm was used?

All I've ever seen is detonation, bearing or oil pump related failures. Never see a rod on its own let go with something else failing first.