Rolls

also drop the exhaust

http://www.ripsltd.com/index2.html paul diemar from red r racing is the other bloke, do a google or search on here, you will find something. Do it once do it properly imo, the amount of dodgy stories I hear is ridiculous, a lot of people end up doing it twice so you'd be better off just spending the extra the first go and having it done properly. There are lots of other workshops that would do it but being as you are in the USA these are the only two that I know regularly ship overseas. Shipping time will be a while, but I doubt it would be much longer than paying someone to build a motor for you. Need to use the R34 CAS with R34 head, but you just rewire the pins 1-4 2-3 3-2 4-1 and it works fine, same deal with the different coils, you just cut the ignitor out of the loom and it runs fine.

Yeah fix the problems first, I just thought that was your goal once it was all running properly.

Blocked exhaust/melted cat will stop it boosting.

Why only 22psi? Just keep screwing more in until it stops making power or you run into detonation issues.

Consider buying a short block already completed, you get a warranty and if you buy from a reputable builder you get a guarantee that it is done properly. No risk of someone doing a dodgy job, especially if they have never built an rb before. rips and redrracing do some fantastic motors all completed ready to go with a warranty.

Could you explain what a bleeder/swirl pod is and how it helps with cooling? Thanks edit: found this http://www.grahamgoode.com/cool.htm#swirl

head failure? what happened

Intake air temp vs ignition correction is a must for cars running on the edge.

All good, best way to learn is to ask. So does it all make sense now? rb20det, r32 rb26det and r34 rb25det ecu's are the only skyline ECUs that can be nistuned.

What are you I dont even? Nistune isn't an ecu, it is a daughterboard that is installed in an ecu. Look at the website.

I don't understand the question. But yes a nistune can be installed in a R32 rb26det ECU.

A remap is a pain in the ass to do as you have to do one chip at a time, takes the same amount of time as doing a full nistune real time map and gets much worse results. Nistune you can remap live, have map tracing, it is the same as tuning a full aftermarket ecu. Difference is night and day in the results. How long is a piece of string? What is done to your rb20? A nistune is $400, how long and how much the tune is depends on who, what, where etc.

If the only thing that was different was boost you'd be perfectly correct, the issue is the higher the boost pressure the hotter the intake gas, also the higher the EGTs and hence everything is just generally hotter. Heat is the enemy as it makes detonation easier, so you need to do fancy stuff like very efficient intercoolers, water/meth injection, exotic fuels like alcohol to be able to run this kind of boost whilst still running some margin of error from detonation. When running this close to the limit you would want to start trimming individual cylinders by using individual EGT probes etc, it starts to get expensive very fast. I doubt many (if any at all) of the guys running 35psi are just simply running an intercooler and 98 octane fuel.

What kind of rev limit are you planning on using?

haha everyone loves tuning twin/triple carbys, spend every weekend balancing them.

If it is totally blocked it could cause it to run very lean and misfire, it is fairly uncommon though.

The dude who did those videos is a f**king pro, hope he gets some paid gigs with an effort like that.

With your traction issues simon you springs are too stiff, 8 and 6 is for drifting, you could almost half that and get better performance. Use swaybars to reduce body rolls, not springs. Also the valving in most coilovers is rubbish.

If you run a stock ECU or nistune it is batch fire anyway so no. But greater the duty yeah that is generally true, how much difference will it make? Probably sfa.

what rpm do you see full boost at roy?

A good tuner will tune the cells above what is being used extremely rich and retarded, much like what nissan did from the factory, hence the R&R feature everyone sooks about, at least their engines don't blow up though.

They can withstand 400rwkw if tuned correctly. The issue is heat and detonation. At those kind of power levels all you need is it to go slightly lean, or you be running it really hot and on the edge of detonation, hard corner and surge = lean, or putting it under load that it hasn't been tuned for and the tuner didn't richen/retard those cells making the motor detonate. Basically down to tuning/fueling/cooling issue.

Interesting...

Just click the link lol....