Sydneykid

Following numerous requests I have arranged a Group Buy on GCG Ball Bearing high flow turbos for RB25’s (non Neo) as found in R33GTST (will also fit Stagea S1’s). The kit comes with all the necessary gaskets and seals to fit the high flow turbo in place of your standard turbo. No extra parts to buy or make, just bolt it on. The price is $1750 including freight, this is a $300+ saving on the normal price. The process is that you deposit the $1750 into the following account at the time of order; Account Name Jamex Australia Bank StGeorge Bank BSB 332-086 Account No 551029694 PM me the transfer receipt number and we are underway. This is the same company that organised the highly successful Group Buy on the Whiteline and Bilstein suspension. Jamex will arrange for GCG to build the high flow, which takes 2-3 working days. When the turbo is ready I will PM you and you can then send your standard turbo to Jamex. Once they receive it they will send your high flow to you overnight via Toll Priority. I will PM you the con note number as soon as Jamex issues it that way you can track the delivery on the Toll web site. This means your car will be off the road for 2-3 days max. Ideal if you want to pull your turbo off on Sunday and put the new one on the next Saturday. We only have a limited number of RB25DET turbos to get high flowed at any one time. So make sure that you PM your receipt number immediately to avoid any delays. If you can’t afford to be without your car, you can pay a $500 security deposit at the time of order. The GCG Ball Bearing high flow turbo will be sent to you straight away. This means you can remove the old turbo and replace it on the same day. When Jamex receives your standard turbo, the $500 deposit will be refunded to your account. Please note that this Group Buy is NOT for RB20DET or RB25DET Neo turbos. These cars will be covered in separate Group Buys. cheers

This a seriously good kit, I have seen exactly this setup make 1100 bhp and yet idle and drive almost like a standard car. Good price too. If I didn’t already have one, I would buy this kit. cheers

I am interesed but I can't find the part on that web site. Surely it isn't; "Nissan R32/R33/R34 Drag Front Pipe Titanium $1710.00" For that price it sounds like a twin turbo dump/engine and cat elimination pipe. Not a single turbo plus wastegate pipe. cheers

What is the problem? Fuel pressure gauge will tell you if it's injectors or pump/regulator problem. Blocking the fuel return from the regulator will tell you if its pump or regulator Regulator problems tend to be there all the time at all rpms's and power outputs Pump problems get worse (lean out) as the rpm increaes For injector sizing problems, simply look at the duration. cheers

All good points as usual Chris. I can't speak for R33's or R34, but once you remove the 4wd stuff, a GTST weighs the same as a GTR. I have yet to find one extra piece of strengthening that is GTR unique. My R32GTST has the same roll cage as the race team R32GTR's and I have tried to measure any chassis stiffness difference. For the same applied twisting torque I get the same deflection. The roll cage makes a HUUUUGE difference if you are doing any regular circuit work. Don't dwell on it, it's a well proven benefit, you will see it the first time you corner weight it with the roll cage fitted. Any tiny change shows up in weight shift. cheers

That's the least of the problems, the real issue is the R33 shocks are much longer than R32. The strut tops in the R33 are up under the rear parcell shelf. Not in the boot like an R32. cheers

Shoot man, just take the springs out, they aren't doing anything at that height that's for sure. Probably isn't the springs holding it up anyway, it's on the bump stops. Better take them out too. In fact, hang the expense, take the shocks out all together and stick some blocks of wood in there, probably ride better anyway. Certainly wouldn't handle any worse. At that height it's probably loosing around 15 rwkw from excessive drive shaft angles. The tyres will last a few weeks at best, chassis cracks are just around the corner (nice pun hey?). The bump steer must be astronomical, not to mention the lack of traction for acceleration and braking. Hope you don't want to drive it very fast. cheers PS; Low is slow

If you had done a search you would have found this question answered many times. Once more for those too who can’t do a search; 1. GTR rear shocks won’t fit GTST’s, GTR rear shocks have forks at the bottom, GTST shocks have eyes at the bottom. As Chris said you could buy and fit GTR rear uprights, but that would cost more then shocks. So while it’s technically possible, it’s a pretty stupid waste of money unless you intend to replace the whole rear subframe with a GTR one for strength reasons. 2. Generally speaking aftermarket GTR rear springs (designed for 4wd) are too hard for GTST’s, they result in poor traction in a 2wd. 3. GTR front springs will fit a GTST but generally speaking aftermarket GTR front springs (designed to carry 200 kgs of extra 4wd weight) are too hard for GTST’s. They result in understeer and poor ride in GTST’s. 4. GTR front shocks will fit a GTST, but they are valved for the higher spring rates, particularly bump valving to slow down the heavier weight under braking etc. So not really suitable for use in a GTST. Cheers PS; the search button is your best SAU friend, learn how to use it

A Whiteline KCA332 camber kit will give polyurethane bushes with off set crush tunes for adjusting the camber. Cost around $A272 (that's about 80 pounds). cheers

I don’t have a problem with my R32GTST with RB31DET, sump clears OK. Did you lower the engine in yours to clear the plenum? Two suggestions; 1. You have the car jacked up with the wheels dangling, try fitting the bar with the wheels at normal height ie; with axle stands under the front lower control arms. 2. I can supply spacers if you wish, they fit between the D bracket/bush and the chassis rail. All you will need to do is measure it and tell me how much spacing it needs. If all else fails, I can have a another bar made with a deeper offset and trade the other bar in, as long as it isn’t scratched up too bad of course. All the fittings are the same of course, so it’s only the bar itself that needs swapping.. Let me know what you want to do via PM. cheers

The pictures don't work at the moment due to the gallery upgrade, Prank is working on that. The caster kit enables the caster to be adjusted. Caster is the change in camber when you turn the steering wheel. Positive caster is where the outside wheel (in the turn) goes negative camber and the inside wheel goes positive camber. Skylines NEVER have enough caster, that's why they wander at speed, are reluctant to turn in and have poor steering feel. Hence the need for adjustable caster (radius rod) bushes. The front camber kit enables adjustement of the static camber. Camber is used to keep the maimum contact pathc of the tyre to the road surface. So you need negative camber on the outside wheel (in the turn) when the chassis rolls. You don't need negative camber on the inside wheel though. This why caster is better than camber, camber is always there even when you don't need it. Caster is only there when you do need it ie; when you turn the steering wheel. cheers

The pipework goes though the inner guard in the basically the same position as the standard GTR pipework cheers

GTR's being 4wd are very differeent to GTST's and GTT's being 2wd. Two things seem to be common, firstly GTR's don't suffer from excessive power oversteer at the same power level anywhere near as much as GTST/GTT's do. Secondly GTR's understeer because of their extreme front weight bias. Keeping that in mind, the Japanese suspension designers use higher comparative rear spring rates in GTRs. Remember they don't have the history of upgrading stabiliser bars, so they try and fix the understeer with spring rates. Plus they can't increase the front spring rate too much as it will reintroduce the understeer problem. As to be expected that is the problem in this case, with the rear spring rate at 5kg/mm (280 lbs / inch). That is way too high for decent traction for a 2WD. As an attempt to get over the harsh ride problem that such high rear spring rates introduce, they run rather soft bump damping in the rear shocks (77 kgf). The front spring rate at 4 kg/mm (225 lbs per inch) is more like what you would run in the rear of a 2wd. As an attempt to control the roll problem that such low (compared to the rear) front spring rates introduce, they run rather high caparitive rebound damping in the front shocks (267 kgf). This couples the stabiliser bar (side to side) and helps with the roll. In summary, front spring too soft and rear spring too hard for a 2wd. The spring configuration is different front to rear, so you can't simply swap the springs, plus the shock valving wouldn't match anyway. Hope that was of some help cheers

Hi Neil, 390 lbs / inch or 7kg/mm cheers

Rear shock lower mounts are different (the fork style same as R33GTR, R34GTR and R34GTT) otherwise everything else is the same. cheers

He bought springs, shocks, caster kit and a bump stop/dust cover kit for his R33GTST. He is saving up to buy the stabiliser bars cheers

Details are here; http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/in...showtopic=85467 Have a read of the guys comments as well. cheers

There are some great things in the Improved Production regs. I like; 1. Control tyres, otherwise you spend $thousands at every race meeting, new qualifying tyres, new race tyres, wet weather tyres. At Bathurst we used to spend $20K for 2 cars over the weekend on tyres alone. 2. Standard body work, it looks like what it is, it's instantly recogniseable. I was looking at a sports sedan Calibra the other day, took me a long time to work out exactly what it was. 3. No spherical bearings, the wear rate is huge. On the sports sedan we used to change ALL of the shericals twice per year. That was $5K that I wouldn't have to spend on polyurethane bushes that last many seasons. 4. Standard engine configuration and original manufacturer. If it comes with a Nissan I6 then you can use any Nissan I6 you want. 5. Very limited aerodynamics. After 1/2 a season with the F3, I can tell you it dominates everything, all the settings revolve around the aero. 6. Standard chassis, no cutting out stuff, removing the floor, cutting up the inner guards to fit bigger tyres. It's expensive and compicates a whole pile of other stuff like roll cage location, fuel tank isolation, fire barriers etc etc. to be continued............

Be careful, the brass fittings hanging off the side of the block vibrate and can crack, particularly if they have heavy sensors screwed into them increasing their weight. If you piggy back them it would just make it worse. When they crack oil goes everywhere, it’s very messy. To stop the vibration, I use a short piece of braided hose screwed into the block and then mount the brass adaptor solidly so it doesn’t vibrate and the weight of the sensors is taken up by the bracket, not the fitting itself. cheers

I have seen a power increase from thermo wrapping exhaust pipes, more than once I can also most certainly measure the external heat difference in hundreds of degrees between a wrapped and an unwrapped exhaust pipe. This test shows that ceramic coating an exhaust makes no difference Hence wrapping the exhaust pipes is infinitely better than ceramic coating them? Have I got it right? cheers

Sorry but no they they won't fit R33GTST They will only fit R33GTR, R34GTT and R34GTR and Stagea 260RS That’s how you adjust the height, wind up the lower spring seat. Preload out of the car is irrelevant, it has no effect on the spring rate. The springs are always “preloaded” when they take up the static weight of the car anyway. Wheel diameter is equally irrelevant, you would have used lower profile tyres so that the total diameter (wheel and tyre) are the same. Otherwise you will have speedo error. cheers

Not with a cage in there Sandown is basically 2 drag strips joined by 2 wiggles, horsepower per kg rules For example the IP lap record is help by Tony, VH Commondoor ~1250 kgs with with 550'ish bhp Even Ray, EB GT can't get it done, 650'ish bhp but 1600 kgs Now I reckon the R32GTS would give it a shake, 1200 kgs and 700'ish bhp The lighest legal IP R32GTR I have seen was 1350 kgs, that's with everything legal to be replaced being replaced with the lightest stuff, chrome molly cage, titanium and carbon fibre. I reckon I could get ~150 kgs out of it ignoring the regs, but still looking like an R32GTR. Original chassis but using plastic windows, all the bolt on panels in carbon fibre, alloy suspension arms and rear subframe, non working lights etc Then we slip the RB31DET in there, 750 bhp, with a 6 speed sequential Hollinger (as used in the Monaro for the 24 hour), ~1200 kgs, some slicks on it, full manual ATTESA and it should do a 1.09 or there abouts. But when I think about it, that's only 2 seconds faster than the V8Supercar, maybe a 1.08 is more like it. Cheap, too should have change out of $100K. For Geoff's benefit, Rod Dale and Gary Walden are running a series next year in NSW for basically Targa class cars, late models, turbos, 4wd, no restrictors etc. They have started promoting it, there's a story in Auto Fiction and Motorsport Spews. I will post it up over the weekend if I get a chance. That's why I had lunch with the IP guys yesterday, I sure put the fear into them. cheers

Without degenerating into a heavyweight discussion of IP rules…….what the car is log booked as determines what it is. For example you can buy a Falcon “taxi” and get it log booked as a “GT”, then run all the “GT” bits. But you can’t then run “taxi” bits later on, once a “GT” always a “GT”. This was realised some time ago when the natural source of race cars (statutory write offs) had to have the chassis numbers removed. So the requirement for a “GT” chassis number went out the window. Engines are free (same configuration and same number of cylinders notwithstanding) so engine numbers are useless in determining if it’s a “GT”. There are many cars racing that have more than one log book, of course. I won’t get into the A9X bonnet discussion, there seems to be total lack of homologation support paperwork for exactly what an “A9X” bonnet was. That’s better than the RX7’s of course, where CMAS has no Touring Car homologation papers for them at all. It seems to have been a “whatever Moffat wants” homologation process. Which still causes no end of grief 30 years later. Onto a lot more interesting (and less brain ache) subjects. We looked at running an R33GTR instead of the R32GTR and found a few problems. 1. Nissan never homologated the R33GTR (or R34GTR for that matter), I guess they were still a bit sour on the FIA after dominating with the R32GTR worldwide and having the rules changed on them. 2. In Production (and even Improved Production) racing you can’t really remove the excess weight, a lighter race car is a faster race car 3. I could find no difference in the suspensions geometry and I looked hard. 4. The R32GTR N1 has the same brakes (Brembos) as the R33 GTR. We don’t run ABS, so any advances in that area are negated 5. Without getting too deep into the ATTESA workings, we actually found the R32GTR system to be superior on the track (ie; less understeer) with Production car horsepower. And In Improved Production spec, we can change the ATTESA so it doesn’t matter. So it was the R32GTR for us, of course if we could afford/ be allowed to run an R34GTR Z Tune that might change the decision. cheers

From memory; Improved Production RX7 = low 1.21's Improved Production Civic = low 1.25's (lap record U2L) V8 SuperCar Commondoor = low 1.11's Haven't run the F3 there, Sandown isn't on the Australian Championship Does 1.27's at Philip Island if that's any help That's around 7 seconds faster than the Commondoor So I reckon around 1.06's at Sandown Would never run the Improved Production GTR there, the restrictors would kill it. cheers