Sydneykid

Toluene is cheap, 10 litres per tankfull and away you go. cheers

Having too big an exhaust is NOT a problem on a turbo charged engine. As far as power goes anyway, although it might be a noise problem of course. Titanium tends to be noisier than stainless steel, it doesn't absorb the sound as much, the titanium seems to echo more. We use titanium exhausts on the race cars for their light weight, a 4" titanium system is less than 1/4 the weight of a 4" stainless system. But they are expensive and very difficult to repair it they get damaged. Personally on a road car I would stick to steel. Cheers

What are you going to do about the gear ratios? cheers

What's your power target? That tells you what size exhaust you will need. My rule of thumb; Up to 250 rwkw = 3" 250 rwkw to 300 rwkw = 3.25" 300 rwkw to 400 rwk = 3.5" Over 400 rwkw = 4" cheers

You rang 1. Why the HELL would you use an RB25 cylinder head? :lol: The RB26 head WILL cost less when you include ALL the necessary parts. Think about inlet manifold, plenum, exhaust manifold, camshafts, solid lifters, valve springs etc etc. Aftermarket RB26 parts are far more common, more choices, cost less new and are plentiful used. 2. I have never ever seen an RB30 with oil squirters standard, and I have disassembled over 30 of them myself, Commondoor, turbo and N/A, series 1 and series 2, Skyline, Patrol and Nissan forklift. Maybe I have just been unlucky 3. Standard RB30 crank is OK, I have seen 925 bhp on the engine dyno. But there are lots of tricks to get it to live at the necessary rpm. Tricks I am sure the RAAF doesn't know :lol: 4. If you are not going to circuit race this engine regularly then why the HELL would you use an N1 water pump? They are designed to avoid cavitation at sustained high rpm, on the road they are useless. A standard R33 GTR water pump is the go with a 50 mm PWR radiator. 5. I sure as HELL wouldn't be using a wide flange drive N1 oil pump on an narrow flange RB30 crank without an adaptor collar (ProEngines have them). 6. Forget about using the standard RB25 box, it MIGHT hold the torque. But the ratios are all wrong for that sort of engine, it WILL drop off boost on gearchanges without a close ratio gearset. 7. Almost NOTHING in the drive train will handle the torque, everything wil have to be upgraded. That includes the tailshaft, universals, diff, drive shafts, uprights, rear cradle etc. 8. I have been looking at the T04Z for circuit work for some time. But the average power over the rpm range we need looks like being less than the ITS66 we currently use, so it would be slower. Until I get a compressor map for a T04Z I don't think I will be risking it. 9. I most definitely wouldn't be using an R33 chassis for this, the R32 chassis is much lighter and leaves more of the budget to be spent on the go faster and/or round corners stuff. 10. At that sort of power and rpm don't forget to factor in a full engine service (rings, bearings etc) around once per year. 11. Based on my experience, whatever the engine costs, double it for the rest of the modifications required to handle that sort of power. cheers PS: Last year we built 5 engines similar to what you are describing, the bill for each was $18K plus turbo, injectors and exhaust manifold.

Generally speaking the Jap tuning shops have a bit to much ignition advance, which suites their 100 ron. This used to be a much greater problem when we only had 95 ron, but it's not so bad with 98 ron. I would STRONGLY suggest you get it on a dyno and see what it is making, how much knock it has and what the A/F ratios actually are. It will be the best $50 you will spend. Then you can make an educated decision on how much there is to be gained from fitting the Power FC. cheers PS; I have seen some really good chipped ECU's from Japanese tuning shops and I have seen some real shockers. The name means nothing.

If it's a high flowed RB20DET turbo it will run out of airflow at around 260 rwkw If it's a high flowed RB25DET turbo it will run out of airflow at around 270 rwkw If it's a high flowed RB25DET Neo turbo it will run out of airflow at around 280 rwkw That's not your main problem, the RB30ET pistons with an RB25 head will have very, very low compression ratio (in the 7's). That's why we use the RB30E. cheers

It's dusty in Australia cheers

Suggestions follow; 1. A properlybalanced RB30 has absolutely no problems to 7,500 rpm 2. The RB25DET water pump 3. Nope, we use external oil coolers, lowers the heat loading on the radiator 4. Use an R33GTR oil pump with a wide flange drive collar (ProEngines have them) fitted to the RB30 crank cheers Ps; don't forget to limit the oil flow to the cylinder head (restrictor) and improve the return to the sump.

I am wary of RB25’s with more than 300 rwkw, been there done that didn’t enjoy it at all. The recently departed R34GTT had 265 rwkw using a GCG ball bearing high flow on the standard manifold. The usual stuff, R33GTR intercooler, alloy intercooler pipework, Power FC with boost control kit, Tomei Poncams, Pipercross filter in the standard airbox, Z32 AFM, full suspension kit, Michelins for the street, Yokohamas for the track and MT’s for the drags. It was nice, drive it everyday, city traffic, drag strip or circuit rain, hail or shine (well maybe not hail). It did an 11.9 at 120 mph in that trim, very reliable, gave us no grief whatsoever, I could always count on it to beat anything I came up against around town. I was pushed into upgrading to a GT30 on a high rise HKS manifold, external wastegate, POD etc. It made 315 rwkw after much stuffing around, bits didn’t fit, cracked, bolts/nuts came loose, couldn’t drive it for weeks at a time etc. After many, many attempts finally got it to an 11.7 at 128 mph. It was a bitch to launch, too much wheelspin or bog down, lost boost on gear changes. It was crap in traffic, couldn’t drive it fast on the street, too peaky, lag, lag then wheelspin, lost many drags up to the speed limit and it the wet it was not at all pleasant. After a few months I decided this wasn’t for me. So I put the standard manifold and high flow back on, sold the GT30 and bits, reloaded the 265 rwkw maps and since then I have driven it around most days. Much nicer car to live with and, I reckon, ultimately faster on the street. Now my big power engines are 3.1 litres and the project R33GTST, with its 2.5 litre, won’t be going over 270 rwkw. I hope that has been of some use. Cheers

Chuck 'em cheers

Sorry, for the dalay I missed seeing this post for a few days. I have replied to the PM, but for the other readers. The fronts are 185 lbs per inch and the rears 220 lbs per inch, which looks a little strange. Maybe check the dimension again just to be sure. Cheers

Sorry, I took the first weekend off from the PC since Xmas. I get around 30 PM's per day and I answer every single one. My mailbox is full, I will respond as soon as I can. cheers

Remove the bulb cheers

Currently running 10 psi controlled by the IEBC with the DFA tuned (~11 to 1 A/ F ratio) which was as good as we could get it with the standard exhaust. The R34GTT intercooler is fitted but the Magic cat is still in the garage with the 3.25” exhaust. Plus the SITC is fitted, but untuned, it is waiting on the exhaust. Now that the project R33GTST is serviced, registered, suspended, PFC’d and running hard and fast, I might be able to get back to the Stagea. There is also a GCG ball bearing high flow and a split dump/engine pipe to go on. BTW, It was pretty useless running more than 7-8 psi without the DFA, the standard ECU R&R mapping made it slower than when it ran 6 psi. Cheers

Hi Jason, I took a weekend off the PC and worked on the project R33GTST, fitted the Power FC and Boost Control Kit and did a bit of tuning etc. Needless to say the PM filled up with 30 or so messagea per day. To which I have now responded, so there should be some space. cheers PS, there are still a few sets of Bilsteins available

Hi Duncan, Mr B has decided to take some time to do further development on the Improved Production GTR. So it won't be racing for a while. Dave is driving his own car in Under 2 Litre IP races. Cheers

S1 Sydney NSW 2234

:lol: :lol: :lol: Managing race teams is great, you get to spend OPM (Other People's Money). When I have enough money to buy a Motec ECU, CDI and Dash for my own car, I will send you what I have left. I still stick by it, for 99.9% of Skylines owners the Power FC is the "best option". When you compare the ALL UP cost, the Motec option is 5 or 6 times the cost of a PFC and Datalogit. As usual, it comes down to budget. When you add that to the cost of a Skyline that has all the necessary parts to NEED and USE that sort of ECU, it only leaves 0.1% of the Skyline owners. need + budget = very small number of people This is not to be confused with; want + budget = much larger number of people. Let's face it, it you really have the WANT and the budget, you willl get the Motec/Autromic working just fine. But if you sacrifice other things in order to afford the Motec/Autromic, then the car will most likely be slower. The Motec/Autronic ECU data logging (as distinct from the data loggers themselves) only record engine data. This means you miss out on large number of other very important (non engine related) data streams. For example I use the front wheel speed sensor (used for ABS) to compare to the ECU speedo readings (effectively connected to the rear wheels). This tells me very accurately the amount of wheelspin versus forward movement. I also have a travel sensor on the rear suspension that tells me the amount of squat. I could also use a steering angle sensor to show any steering input corrections (was the run straight, if not by how much). A clutch travel sensor to compare clutch modulation with wheelspin and forward movement. Perhaps to show the speed of the gearchange if you use the clutch. Or 2 rear suspension travel sensors to show the differential squat due to torque loadings. Datalogit seems to do a pretty good job for Power FC's. Plus I use a few of the extra inputs (not engine related) to add to the basic engine data. AiM units with the combined dash and data logging end up being relatively inexpensive when you include the savings from not needing to buy a range of gauges. Pi System have the new Delta Lite data logger which is a low cost entry level 8 channel unit. Having the data is all very well, but you have to know how to use it, how to implement the improvements that the data suggests. cheers

Needed auto waggon or ute to tow the race car and fit stuff in for races. Foulcan or Commondoor waggons/utes used previously. Utes proved unsuitable, too easy to steal stuff from. Wanted something better, different and not a truck like 4wd. Had to cost similar to Foulcan or Commondoor waggons used previously. When needed, to also carry 4 adults comfortably, my kids grew. The old Foulcan waggon, used before the Stagea, hardly got driven, pretty much only on race weekends. The Stagea gets driven almost every day, that tells me I made the right choice. cheers

That's pretty damn good effort Roy, there is one bit I would add; Increasing the front caliper piston diameter means more fluid needs to be moved to get the clamping pressure. In a tandem master cylinder you have to be carefull that the additional fluid movement can be accommodated without affecting the rear piston movement. An example, at a suspesnion set up clinic I drove a Supra (sorry) that had an 8 piston front calliper upgrade and standard rear callipers. It didn't stop as well as a standard one and after spending $6K, the owner was somewhat peed off. We have a pressure guage that can be screwed into the brake bleeding holes on the callipers. It tells you the pressure that the pistons actually see. I found that the front hydrualic pressure was substantially less than standard, hence insufficient pad clamping pressure. What was happening was the front piston in the tandem master cylinder was effectively running out of travel, limited by the rear piston travel. The suggested fix (not by me) was to upgrade the rear to 4 spot callipers. This fixed the hydraulic flow biasing problem but resulted in a very long pedal that was hard to modulate. Result, after spending $8K the car still stopped no better than a standard one and had this long pedal that did not instill driver trust. But the brakes sure looked impressive. cheers PS, the trick is not to ignore the fluid flow requirements in the quest for hydraulic ratios.

Diffs don't usually clunk when they wear out, they wine and howl. Sounds more like a joint to me, drive shaft, cv or tailshaft uni. I would be doing the "rotate and look for slack" test. cheers

Stall, time is your friend. Stall as much as you can, for as long as you can. Under no circumstances do you want to go to court while you are still disqualified. The record I have seen is 2 years, it was hard work but it was done. If you do get a summons, wait until about a week before the court date and then request an adjournment at the local court house. The idea is to stall until you get you licence back, the golden rule is don't get busted for anything else when you do get your licence back. Then get you boss to write a note saying that you HAD to work. Get a copy of the bus and train timetable showing that you couldn't get to work without driving. Obtain a copy of the act removing the "drive for work rule". Submit it all as evidence, say you have learnt your lesson, you have been a good boy since you got your licence back etc etc. That's why you stall, so you get a clean driving period. Then cop whatever the magistrate hands out on the chin. Whatever you do don't EVER drive without a licence again, you will go to jail. cheers

Nope, R32GTST is different, the intercooler outlet comes off the front, instead of the rear. cheers

The ATTESSA system in the Stagea S! is like the R33GTR, NOT like the R32GTR. This means it has residual hyrdraulic pressure, so pulling the fuse does nothing. Do a search, Brad explains what happened to his Stagea when someone tried the R32GTR trick. The 4wd switch is good for snow and ice and wet grass. Do a search, it was a much discussed subject when we early adoptors got our Stageas 18 months or so back. cheers