Sydneykid

Picked up the rear pads today, boy are they ever small. I will post up a picture tonight cheers

Since I am one of the "anyone", is this a good place to discuss this subject? Let's assume it is, and see what happens. Did you get any other advantage other than more front brake bias, which a $50 proportioning valve would have accomplished? Or even cheaper, machining off some of the rear pad to reduce its surface area? Or using a lower CoF rear pad? cheers

You are not the only one. Ours was 16.5 l/100k combined conditions before I leaned it out with the DFA. Even after that I can get it to 15l/100k if I hustle it along, that's not thrashing, more like driving briskly. If I really pushed it, 20l/100k would be easy. Unlike most cars it doesn't get much better on the freeway. For comparison, the R34GTT gets 10's on the freeway and 14's around town, so it improves 4l/100k. The Stagea improves only 2 to 2.5 l/100k and that's being careful. The aero dynamics of the waggon at work, plus it's an auto and 4wd. I am hoping that the exhaust upgrade will make a difference, that and the cat upgrade should remove the cork that it currently has stopping it from breathing. I am going to throw a new lambda sensor in there as well, just to be sure I have picked up everything I can. So YOU ARE NOT ALONE cheers

I reckon it's because you can buy a very upgraded R32GTR for that much. Even standard'ish R33GTR's are not much more than a standard'ish R34GTT. That's the REAL problem. cheers

Sounds to me like you have a vacuum hose problem. The carbon canister removes the petrol smell. There is a line that goes back to the tank from the carbon canister. There is another line that goes from the carbon canister to the inlet, this sucks any fumes (after the carbon canister has cleaned them) into the engine and they get burnt. If that line is split or not connected, you will get pressure built up, as the fuel in the tank gets hotter. The cap then lets this pressure escape. Hence fumes around the cap This could also be the problem with no boost, if you have a vacuum line off after the turbo, the boost will escape. I find spilt vacuum hoses on Skylines all the time, that would be the first place I started looking. cheers

Yep, zero for both cheers

An SAFC is simply an AFM voltage bender, it changes the voltage that the ECU sees from the AFM. When you bend the AFM voltages a lot, the ignition timing is also affected. So you may end up with too far advanced ignition in order to get the A/F ratios right. As I have said many times before, piggy back (benders) are a compromise. You might have to run it a bit rich so the ignition timing is not too far advanced. On some cars this compromise is huge in max power, average power and response, on others it's not so bad. Every engine is different, but one things is for sure, the further you upgrade from standard, the bigger the compromise. cheers

My gguess would be HICAS, it is not your friend, do a search. cheers

I wouldn't be using a plain bearing turbo on a car that sees the circuit, OK on a drag car though. cheers

Depends if it is an R33GTST or R33GTR. The 3 X RB25's we have used Poncams in work best at zero degrees. In my experience, GTR's always benefit from adjusting the camshaft timing, regardless of the brand of camshaft used. cheers

Hey. Dunc, are you using Yokohama A032R's or A048R's? cheers

Suggestions follow; 1. I wouldn't recommend anything bigger than 2530's on a circuit GTR 2.6 litre. And I am not alone, almost all the fast Jap workshop GTR's use 2530's on the circuit. 2. Most likely pads overheating, good quality rotors work fine up to 1400 degrees. 3. Backing plates have to go, both front and rear. They are only usefull on road cars that see a lot of broken surfaces, they help stop small rocks and stones getting caught between the rotor and the calliper. Plus help retain a bit of heat when driving on the freeeway or in the rain. Removing them makes a huge difference in reducing the trapped heat, do it NOW. 4. Stabiliser bars are the FIRST suspension mod I do on any car, then alignment (camber & caster) then shocks, springs are last on my list. Quite often I don't do springs at all on road cars, just makes the ride rough and doesn't help the handling one bit. Stabiliser bar upgrades are the single best bang for buck upgrade you can do. cheers

Stabiliser bars are the FIRST mod I do cheers

My sugestions; Heasmans, Sydenham (Doug Heasman) East Coast, Kirrawee StGeorge Steering, Punchbowl (John Lefler) cheers

Noise???? Based on the 2 degrees advance we apply to GTR's and RB20's, it doesn't make the idle "lumpy", if that's the question. They just sit there and idle, same as they did before. Emmissions, that's a bit tougher to answer as it depends on how the engine is tuned before the inlet camshaft timing is advanced. Just fitting an exhaust and turning up t he boost to 10 psi makes an RB25DET fail the ADR standards. I suspect if you advanced the inlet camshaft timing 2 degrees on a totally stock engine it would make bugger all difference to the emissions, with NOx being the only question. cheers

If there were simply 6 X 120 degree pins, then how would the ECU know when the engine is at TDC on #1? That's what the 0 degree pin does, identify #1. So no, the 120 degree signal would not be enough. I also understand that the 0 degree signal is used for the tacho. It is my understanding that the 2 X 120 degree signals are for error detection. One is a straight input to the ECU, so it knows when each one of the 6 cylinders is at TDC. The other 120 degree signal is combined with the 0 degree signal to identify #1 and synchronise the other 5 cylinders. So the injectors squirt and the spark plugs fire at the right time for each cylinder. If the straight 120 degree signal doesn't align with the #1, #2, #3, #4, #5, #6 TDC signals then you get a synchronisation error. Hope that helps cheers

What capacity is the engine? If it is still 2.6 litres then you have a lag problem, that's why the Evos can keep up. What turbos do you have? We have found 700 bhp is too much for a 2.6 litre, the throttle response drops off dramatically over 600 bhp. So you can't drive it around the corners wiht any throttle control. When you say "brake fade" is that fluid or pads? Have you removed the tin backing plates? They hold the heat in too much. What wheels? We have found that they make a big difference. Brake ducting? Have you tried some temperature sensitive paint on the edge of the rotors and the back of the pads? That will tell you what you are dealing with. Personally I would be spending my money on increasing the cornering speeds, not improving the brakes. cheers

DFA made 2 litres per 100k's difference. Paid for itself several times over. cheers

Our Series 1 Auto was 170 kw. That ended up at 105 4wkw on our race team dyno. Turned the boost up to 10 psi and leaned it out a bit (still too rich at 11 to 1), no mechanical mods (standard exhaust still with compliance cat) and it went up to 135 4wkw. Which is around the same as the Series 2. So I wouldn't be worried about power, there is plenty to be had. It has been my experience that auto's are always better for towing than manuals, the clutches on manuals cop heaps when towing heavy loads or pulling boats out of water. The Stagea auto is a big sucker and quite durable. cheers

Same, 5 litres, including oil filter cheers

I would replace the standard ECU with a Power FC cheers

AFM's are the best load source by far, MAP sensors are not even close. Because you can have the same pressure at different loads, only an AFM can tell you the CORRECT load. My advice (as always) is to use the best load sensor, and that's an AFM. As for the problem of running wires for the extra AFM, you don't have to. Simply parrallel up the outputs of the 2 X AFM's and feed that via the standard wiring harness. The ECU sees the movements in the voltages of the 2 X AFM's as a single change, so you tune as you would if it had only one AFM. cheers

Response to your questions follow; 1. Yes 2. Any R32/33/34 GTR callipers would fit, even Brembos 3. I never use cross drilled rotors, they always crack. (Yes, even Porsche ones) 4. No problem, once I have time to install them. Slight delay, no pads as yet. cheers

Without lambda readings that is not a good idea. If it has partial throttle leaness that will mean burnt exhaust valves over a short time frame. The machine shop guys have had a GTR cylinder head back twice for new exhaust valves because the tuner didn't tune for partial throttle running. And that's all the engine was getting while it was being run in. Tuning for full throttle only is very naive, it just makes the engine feel doughy and lacking in response. It is amazing how much nicer a car is to drive when all of it load points are properly tuned. cheers

Easily, the pipework is no higher than standard. cheers