DCIEVE

Well lets hope you're able to get some support and make wtac again this year - it's great to see a car built on a 'reasonable' budget running so quickly.

Are you and G7 thinking of selling the conversion parts in a kit? I imagine it would be pretty popular..

Roy, I had another look at the canton site again and see what you mean!! I think the simple option is going to be the most reliable - in a quick search it's easy to find people who have had the electronic valves fail. The way I see it is on the track the rpm is always up, if the oil pump momentarily sucks air the accumulator immediately starts dumping oil.. pressure drops slowly as it discharges and if the accumulator is large enough the oil pump will have started picking up oil before pressure drops too far. Failing that I have an EPC I can sell you

I have the electronic valve but based on advice from a few users on SAU and other forums I'm going with a manual valve instead. The only disadvantage of the manual valve seems to be higher wear rates on the cylinder since it is constantly charging/discharging but it's otherwise much simpler and recommended by Canton for race cars. I'll data log oil pressure and trim the % open on the valve if it's discharging too quickly - Simon-S14 talks about this in his build thread in a bit more detail. I've been wanting Panasports for years but at 5k delivered they're hard to justify over Works that are a few grand less. I've been burnt trying to buy second hand as well (once on SAU), the vast majority seem to be cracked/bent so it's just too risky. In another build thread I was informed by a helpful fellow that the A1000 might struggle on e85 at my power levels This was a bit painful after plumbing the boot to suit the aeromotive but it looks like it won't be too hard to shoe horn the new pump in.

Thanks! Not bad really considering the size.

Any chance you can weigh those wheels? Thinking of going a similar way.

When you say 'FEA tested' what exactly have you done. I'm assuming a beam model of the cage minus chassis looking at torsional stiffness? How much optimisation is done (stiffness vs. weight) - I imagine there are diminishing returns when you start adding that much bar work.

First preference was 1 piece 17's (or 18's depending on brake clearance i.e. rpf1's) given they're about as light as you can buy but they don't come wide enough, or with low enough offsets for the rear. Which leaves me looking for something 3pce and 18" with custom widths/offsets... bbs e88 are on the wish list but well outside budget so some 3 pce Works might be the way to go. As mentioned earlier, trying not to waste time on things that don't get it running or aren't going to improve reliability or performance so the kit stays

Thanks Duncan, proof will be in the driving. Hopefully soon! Cheers Andrew! Christmas was a rare opportunity to get some uninterrupted time in the garage so I was able to get a few things done. Getting some motivation back lately. Undercar hardlines complete. 1/2" feed and 3/8" return. Reassembled the rear end with the adjustable trailing arms and all new bushes etc With the rear end back in the car it was time to measure up and make a new solid diff mount. The one pictured below was quickly thrown together after the z31parts item failed leaving the car stranded with it's diff on the ground at motorvation a few years back. That mount was pretty rough so a friend helped put together a replacement. Putting it on the mill was probably overkill but it was there and we had holidays to kill Trial fit ...and painted I've also made a start on the flare fit-up - hopefully by the end of the weekend the guards will be cut. Rear Front The rear is quite a bit bigger than the front in profile Also fitted up the standard rear bumper and garnish I had painted ages ago. Tentative new home for the accusump - will need a cover in this location but shouldn't be too hard to knock up.

Coming along quickly! Out of interest did you look into the rb30 to GM bell housings from the rod shop - or are they just a dellows item? Renegate sequential shifter?

In the interests of maintaining my sanity I concede, but thanks for the tip - I'll be sure to pass it on to my grads

Given your bearing dimensions are fixed the variables affecting the bearing performance are speed, flow rate and viscosity. Viscosity can double in 10 deg increments depending where are you are in the temp/viscosity range (log scale). The industrial scale bearings I'm involved with trip on 'feed' lube temperature, given an increase in temp of 5 deg above the trip point can drop the viscosity to a point where bearings fail (lube film is dependant on viscosity, load and speed). Ideally you want to know the temp at the bearing but in reality you have to settle for going as close to the bearing as possible. Oil is tested regularly and replaced based on the rate of deterioration (in most cases contamination happens first). Now I'll ask you, how do you measure the maximum temp the oil reaches? At best you can measure the temp in the reservoir/sump or after the pump/before the filter, so using your argument - you still have no idea what the max oil temp is nor if the oil has reached a temp where it will break down. Your best of getting the oil tested to figure that part out.

Have to disagree, You want to know temp and hence viscosity at the bearings, the practical way to do this is measure the feed into the block.

Hey Brad, did you get my pm?

Looks great Simon! When does it hit the dyno?

'Outer Control' did the boots etc - very helpful bunch of guys. No luck with replacement parts so we had to rebuild used gear. Fatz helped out with a set of a car he was wrecking.\ Pressed in the subframe bushes, all ready to go back in and get the car rolling again.

Not as yet, will have to bite the bullet and go with someone soon. Visited one builder recently who pulled out a broken rb30 crank which has me thinking about nitto cranks now.. I have a few strong burnout photo's from your ownership on the HD somewhere. Not that much has changed!

Thanks Steve. And some more Subframe painted up waiting for the ally bushes to be pressed in. Adjustable (toe & camber) trailing arms All the front suspension parts have been installed so it's ready to roll once the rear end go's back in. Rebuilt rear drive-shafts - modified so they work with the non hr cusco 2-way.

Geoff, where does the 8875 fit into the above?

Email Geoff at FR, he steered me away from the FMW but it may be better suited to your setup.

Looking good! Are you sticking with the factory balancer on the new motor? ATi balancers can be had pretty cheaply these days and might be good insurance. Also pending how far you push the turbo that clutch might be a limiting factor.

It's been a while since I updated this, it's still a way off running but there has been a fair bit happening. It's also in the current issue of Zoom (181) in it's previous guise...and by previous I mean 3 years ago 3an vac line to the fpr in teflon braid Completed all the WG vacuum lines with 4an teflon brain, mostly covered in firesleeve where it runs close to the exhaust. DEi turbo beanie Collecting fittings for the oil lines - that's nomex/kevlar braid, a lot lighter than steel braid New oil cooler, plumbed in with the nomex line and more speedflow The tee which runs to the accusump and the one way valve. There is also a pressure sensor fitting on the adapter block. Bulkhead fitting (line runs to the accusump) and cf blanking plate where the heater hoses used to run. Running line to the accusump which now lives in the boot (cut to length but the fittings aren't put together here). The ball valve is in easy reach. Bulkhead fitting for the 8an fuel feed line sitting in a cf blank (filling an old hole). It's almost rolling again now as well...

Or you could just use the factory louvre or some mesh...

A friend is adapting a gforce with a hyd release bearing and tiny ex nascar tilton clutch, looks like a fair bit of work. How are you approaching the clutch/release bearing etc?

I have a bit of room to spare even with the extra deck height. Out of interest have you guys seen any precision results bettering the usual garrett options or is it still just hype? I keep looking for reasons to change but there are precious few results. The details are in the build thread but it's basically a std stroke built 30, 26 head with big'ish cams, full race 'power' manifold and all the supporting stuff.