DCIEVE

Nice result joey. This gives me hope the 88/75 with full race mani on the 30 will be worth the wait.

Nice! What ratio's are available?

All other things being equal helical gears are significantly stronger...

hey mate, sent you a pm re: knock sensor loom.

My experience is with designing hydrodynamic and hydrostatic bearings many orders of magnitude larger - but hydrodynamic typically run a white metal top layer that is sacrificial given the oil film is much thinner. During 'run in' any high points (greater than the film thickness) are wiped- I don't see the point in a gentle run in, oil film thickness will reduce with load so the process isn't complete till its fully loaded...

Tease!

Nice GTR! Is that your engine on the stand?

What is the bolt spacing on these? I have an earlier skyline but if the bolt spacing is close enough I'll mod it to suit

Nice! Lol at spending before the wife finds out! Keep us updated on the splitter, a lot of cars at wtac were using similar materials. I assume the brother in law gets it via sign writers or similar? Wheels look good, what are the specs and where from?

Thanks for the info. I was planning to set it up the same way but hadn't heard of the half closed during operation part - good to know! Feel free to throw up some shots of the enclosure

Not sure if I missed it but how did you hook up the accusump - did you use the electronic solenoid or just hook it up directly so it's constantly filling and discharging? You put on an amazing smoke show at wtac btw!!

Started bending up the fuel lines, only the feed line shown here while the return line coil is on it's way from the guys at garage7. Pump to filter fuel line and pressure sensor, just need to plumb the filter to the bulkhead and from there to the above 1/2" feed line. Baby steps..! Does anyone have any engine builder recommendations for the Perth area??

It must be available given there were quite a few local cars using it at the event. Anyway just a suggestion. It's an aluminium honeycombe, I won't dilute your thread with random pic's but throw alumalite splitter into google

No worries Harry, I might wander down to one of the jap wreckers in the next week or so and have a look. Thanks for the suggestion Corey - I'll give him a call.

Have you guys considered alumalite? I noticed a few cars at WTAC used the stuff for the complete flat floor/front splitter.

If I could find someone that I trust to do the work I'd consider it but unfortunately my preferred fabricator isn't interested. Given I already have a 2way mech diff, billet axles and coilovers to suit the current rear end machining billet driveshafts would be the next step. I'm reasonably sure breaking the diff mount and dragging the diff/subframe along the ground is the cause in this case...fingers crossed. Interesting!! I might grab some r32 shafts and see what's interchangeable - I'm assuming GTR? It's just the CV's that are the issue in this case - the shafts themselves are fine.

I'll post more details once they're welded in but bascially the RHS welds to the end of the inner mount on the trailing arm after chopping the std end off. Should give 15mm of adjustment and I'll weld it in 10mm higher to begin with. It's pretty similar to what the Gibson cars have done but easier to adjust - I'm not sure if the Gibson cars re-mounted the outer as well? Not at this stage. Still needs an engine and wiring but otherwise pretty close. Also just found out it needs new driveshafts which aren't particularly easy to find...

Still have the driveshafts?

Pull the WG off and take a look at the valve, make sure the diaphragm and spring are working as they should. I'm assuming you have the same ecu so the MAP pressure source is unchanged?

So would you both agree 750-800degC EGT's should be the target rather than lambda? I assume these EGT's are measured at the exh port? I only have experience measuring EGT's on pulp at this stage (10.8 afr = 870+degC EGT!)

Vacuum lines for the two WG's has been a bit of work but it's coming together reasonably well and provided a nice break from lying under the car! Almost done here, just missing one line and then I'll cover everything in firesleeve. Made a start on the intake side - completed the rail to FPR fuel line, tapped the old PCV so it can act as a vac source for the FPR (bottom middle) and also tapped the coolant bleed point for the header tank (bottom left). The new subframe to replace the butchered one had some surface rust so I've been cleaning that up before it and the trailing arms go to brad stacy. Driveshafts and diff will also get some attention. The adjustable trailing arm parts Most of the front suspension bit's and pieces are in now as well.

The bushes happened over here - reasonably sure it still had hicas/factory bushes when you had it.

Thanks Brae - yeh the subframe is a mess! After you mentioned it I gave Stewart Wilkins a call and now a camber/toe kit is on it's way - pretty much the same set-up the Gibson R31's used so hopefully it gives plenty of adjustment. Also had some more machining done - new 4340 king pins for the adjustable LCA's after the ones supplied with the kit galled (forgot to use anti-seize, but seriously - who zinc coats critical fasteners!?).

When are you going to wind it up Joey?

Someone else might be able to clarify but in the session the owner drove (Luffy was up on the pit roof watching) the car was doing 35's. Then again I was getting times via the commentators so I could be way off.