T04GTR

ok, what is the recomended piston to bore clearance for these pistons. bearing in mind that a "good" un damaged stock bore will have around 3-4thou clearance. honing gives you another 1-2 thou on top. so you could have up to 6thou clearance or more. in regard to the oil squirter issue. thats more a suplier fault. as the recess clearly wasnt milled into them. i know some american and european parts arnt a true fit. i tend to stick to the sulpiers who "specalise" in theses engines. if i was going to build up a chev i wouldnt go to tomei and ask them to make me some pistons lol, id go je or a american product. etc etc the reason they rattle is because of the high silicon content. BUT this often isnt the best way to go. that is why american pistons are rattely,and these obviously. jap pistons are superior in there design and metalergy and often have the same silicon content but requir only half the clearance. and dont rattle typical clearances for say. a JE piston is around 4 thou. for a trust/grex/os piston are 1.9thou wich is a factory clearance. and why they are twice as expencive. mahle pistons afre very good. they were good enough for the 1450hp turbo 1.5 liter bmw f1 engines all pistons are barel shaped when cold. just make sure yor clearances are ok. otherwise it will breathe to much. mesured at 90degrees fron the gudion pin hope that is of some help

hmm, not boosting? they are pretty big turbos. id expect some lag. they should kik in by say 5k if not then there may be a problem with either the wastgate actuators (not put on) or a problem with the turbos them selves. does it run airflow meters? or a map sensor ecu. im sure its something simple. it usaly is

for normal street tyres, whether it be 80 dollar re treads or 1000dollar p-zeros you shold inflate the tyres to what the manufacturer recomends. for track tyres 30 to 32 is the norm. all presures shold be done when the tyre is hot

only early rb25 boxes. the nylon ball on the bottom of the 25box will have to have a small one for it to fit. the length is also abit diferant, but it will work if the balls the same size.

1way is only good for front wheel drives. as it only locks up in 1 direction. perfect for gtr's in the front. for the street a 1 way is really what alot of people want but dont realise it. whats the point of locking up the rears on deceleration? 1.5way is more suited for people who can drive. its a circut racing style diff. it offers good lockup on aceleration but also offers a slight lockup on decel/bracking to stop one rear locking up under braking. it oes a good job of it to 2way (depending on the brand) is a drift diff esentally. gives crazy lockup in both directions. quite scary in the rain and i woulnt recomend it if you have a girlfriend, (ones that arnt into cars that is lol) coz they will think your car is broken, with all the clunking and banging with any of theses using a "friction modifier addative" is needed to smoth out the clunking. either the holden one or the nismo one works well hope that helps

i personaly prefer nismo. they are oldschool but WORK and dont let the whole of woolworths carpark know you have a aftermarket diff. ive driven cars with kaas,cusco 2ways and they are crazy harsh. i could sware the driveshafts were gonna come through the floor. just way to harsh and for circut racing it would be way to taily. great for drift but just no fun on the street,well after a few hours anyway lol

very smoth reliable tune. good coldstart and not overly rich under boost. well not clouds of fuel smoke out the back. in penrith but. he tunes our race car. and is very good at pfc and haltec, autronic,dribbletech,motec

HITMAN ftw

haha yeah, i was going threw my overflowing email

jungle juice. with such a short stroke motor theres not enough time for the flame to go out befor the valves open. they idle at like 3k anyway also on overrun and low load conditions the flames are because of an enriched tune to cool the exhaust valves down.

how hot is this motor

but... if you were seriouse you could probably convert the car to a 4 link set up. that would work best. and the nine inch will be very well suited

oh, im sorry. lets see. a diff that bolts up.? or a bulky 1950's based bigger is better truck diff? not that theres anything wrong with them. just try finding one that has a nodular iron case and doesnt use a floating inner axle design. il choose the r220 and perhaps using shortened r33gtr 31spline axles. hks and pretty much any other 1000hp drag gtr seems to do ok worst case just get some "billit axles made to suit the diff that fits? or you could try and cut n shut a 9 inch. dave

i take its a vid of the factory guage? il not bother then first thing to do is get a aftermarket mechanicl one or an electric defi one. one that responds quickly only way to be sure

why would you want to do that? if you want a diff wich is much stronger just use a z32 tt diff. r220. 220mm vs 9 inch 228mm. it will bolt up using gts4 driveshafts and WONT BREAK. not sure about the axels but.

you need the manual tail shaft

check the fault codes

it has been tuned propery hasnt it?

just put a oil presure guage on. theres only one way to know. also blocked turbo oil lines wont cause this problem. do you have a remote oil filter thingy on.? ive seen people put them on backwards so the oil has alot of trouble flowing backwards threw the filter

front db1170ult rear db1252 ult

i recently took mine to the track with 5mm toe in on the rear 2 deg neg on the rear and 4mm toe out on the front. 3 deg neg and 9 deg caster, turned in beutifly, evan with 7 yr old ad05/06 advans it was taily as f**k. so much i removed the rear bar completly and i dropped 3 sec a lap. the above setting were me gently discussing the subject at a recent improved production round at oran parkl to a gtr driver.

cool. first of. softer is always faster. the worst thing i did for my car was buy whiteline swaybars.(not the kit, so there to stiff as ive got "jap" spring rates. getting a gtr to turn in is the hardest thing to achieve, especaly with the wide range of suspention kits out there. heres the settings that i found work very well on the track for a gtr with semis. first offf. 048's run best at a hot pressure of 30-32psi and a front rake of around 10mm (front lower) front toe. up to 5mm out total. (i know of a competative 32 wich runs 7mm out each side!!, but it works front camber. 4 deg neg. depending on tyre temps but camber is usaly the last thing to settle on. front caster max. 8-9degrees swaybar on softest. rear... toe 0-.5mm toe in camber. 1-1.5 degrees depending on the track.(wakefield 1 deg neg, eastern creek 1.5 deg.ie faster track) swaybar on softest. (if you have heavy springs say like over 7kg/mm use the stock swaybars,i threw mine out : ) if its understeering stiffen up the rear bar. if its over steering stiffen the front bar. but worth mentioning is adjusting the roll centres is very worthwile,along with bumpsteer. basicly lowrer/space the outer balljoint of the front lower control arm 75% as much as you have lowerd it. ie.. a 1 inch spacer usaly does the trick from what ive seen. the same for the steering tie rod end. to keep the steering arm on the same plane as the control arm. it all really depends on what your spring rates are. this setup is a good starting point for most jap suspention equiped 32gtrs but its imperative you maintain 30-32 psi max in the tyres 30 is ideal. that is going out with a cold temp presure of around 24 in the front and 26 in the rear. cheeres. dave

is it coil overs. if it isnt. just go over them with a presure pack black spray it black,send it back ftw..

ive spent fark knows how long trying to fix my one doing that. its an old car pretty much. my seems to be getting oil surge in the resovior

yep. db1170 brake pad. 32gtr calipers are intended for 298x32mm thick discs.