paulr33

no you would be paying for the HKS combination what ever spec, wheels, housing options etc are on the 3037s Pro there cannot be an equiv garrett unit ie: you cant order a Garrett 3037s Pro as its a HKS locked item, and HKS have exclsuive rights to that combo Garrett do many OEM style turbochargers but they also make turbochargers for HKS any HKS combination that HKS come up with is made by Garrett but you can't buy it from Garrett, it must be from HKS so its likely the 3037s is a well setup turbo for some specific engines, as HKS do the R&D and testing etc and say we believe the combo is spot on for x.x litre engines and XYZ displacement or exhaust setup so we've spent 10,000 hours and spent all the money testing out the combo, so you can have it with the HKS branding

the 3037s pro is a HKS spec turbo so it has the HKS pricetag garrett cant offer the same spec so they give you similar options but with a lower price tag due to branding

actually i do remember a random oi what day was it ?

yeah i know about vpls and vituarisalisation on catalyst switching

thanks ryan - mechanics is not me forte - i can build you an ip network? would it just be easier to order the nismo item - thats what is busted yeah ??

You would be silly to import one, there are so many std R33 GTSTs for sale on carsales.com.au 200rwkw is fine for the standard turbo and most parts. some parts you must upgrade are; - full exhaust - stand alone or piggyback (safc will do) - fuel pump (nismo, tomei, GTR pump etc etc) - cold air intake is OK - boost controller - heavy duty clutch the standard turbo is fine for 200rwkw but its a ball-liner as its bit risky. if you want to take away the risk of it failing get it ball bearing hiflowed $2000 or buy an off the shelf garrett vanilla unit that will mate up to the standard parts etc. no near for a brand name $3k jobbie if a 2k one will do keep some money aside for when things like - clutch - coilpacks - timing belt fail, break down, perform to less than stadard etc - so you have some money ready for when stuff breaks the tune at the end of the day will decide how "bullet proof" so speak to some workshops ask them how they plan to apply the strategy of "bullet proofing" your car for you find out what ECU system they will setup and tune and how they plan to tune it etc

yeah you can try the stock ecu if you like - im not sure it will help you can get your car towed without coverage, it will just cost a bit of $

with the car on ACC (but dont try to start it) on the hand controller goto ETC, SENSOR SW CHECK do you see any sensors highlighted with black background? why not get the car towed back home so its safe... ?

a scan of the dyno sheet showing AFR will reveal a lot of info - can you post it up ?

hi all my clutch pedal is toast and its all wonky and wobbly i had my local mechanic fix up my slave cyclinder and thats all sorted but its still about the same, he said the slave was toast but now he is saying the pedal box is shagged to so its better but the pedal is still floppy etc. ive done some searching and it seems common for the pedal box to die a few guys just weld it up and its ok etc. they want $200 for the part 2nd hand and $350 to fit it to the car the car drives ok, selects gears reasonably ok, so the cluthc itself is ok its just clunky and hard to get it in gear - like the pedal is awkward is this part what i need ? http://www.skylinesaustralia.com/forums/Ni...mp;hl=pedal+box and is it the same as.. http://www.nengun.com/nismo/clutch-pedal-bracket like would it be the whole assembly or just the metal thats toast? logic says to me its just the metal bracket as they checked the master cylidner and bled it etc and said its fine

after clutch pedal box - have you got this ?

i agree with dave there are lots of cars that run bush or journal style bearings and they last 100,000+ i dont suspect the bearing type would cause what you have experienced (unless installed incorrectly etc)

regional victoria has WIN TV just one of the regional names

spotted troy's UTE13B on mickleham rd

horrible compression = flat & empty response

So you all know i can out drink Steve-O - actually i think anyone can.... Thats all I have for now

hi, yes you can, just baby it around and learn how to watch for knocking its covered in the powerfc faq in my signature - have a read of it - will cover most questions

have you brought the cams yet? if not, dont - try the car without the cams its a big capital outlay and you find its for zero to minor gains much like a front plenum change - zero to almost zero gains for $1000 ish

external VCT boxes; http://www.apexi-usa.com/product_gizzmo_de...7&pageNum=1 http://www.nengun.com/power-enterprise/camcon either of those should give you some external VCT control it would probably be easier, cheaper and more reliable to use an ECU that supports VCT out of the box

whats the reason you are going for microtech? ive driven my car with VCT unplugged and its just sluggish and lacks power im not sure it will "kill the engine" it would be unreasonable for the engine to fail if the VCT system is disconnected or fails the engine check light doesnt even come on if the system fails, theres no active check for VCT in the ECU train so its not an essential part ie oil pressure and temperature are and can be fatal, hence they have sensors and throw the engine light on when they fail or an idiot light

before doing anything find the cause of the failure

will the nur spec be there ill only go if we get to see more videos of girls screaming and 100 posts containing the word nur spec

ive got an rb30 one on mine pretty sure