paulr33

if your going to get one, get a justjap kit to suit your car at least you will know it will fit properly and be half reasonable

sorry to hijack thread but im looking for a set of std gtst wheels to borrow for week or so - with rubber im getting my wheels powerdercoated etc so need some loaner wheels, happy to pay cash or beer etc to loan wheels

go the powerfc, sorry wins hands down in most cases unless you can afford wolf 3d, autronic, motec it just seems with the other piggyback style systems you need to find a competent tuner then you are back to the old remap style issue where only 1 or 2 workshops can do / fix it / tune it so your stuck with lack of competition, options and alternate/cheaper pricing if i was to do another car , powerfc no questions

best of luck guys - as always if you need anything youve got my number

yeah im still at work till the 18th

nah it doesnt come out of my leave im still on payroll till march 18th then my leave gets paid out

im getting paid to sit at home

ok i think everyone is nur spec'd out

yeah that would make about 200rwkw

at least im pretty sure thats correct

yeah FCC NT or FCC NT2 is the older style hand controller this was for nissan generic before they started shipping them as batch FC + HC but you can't buy FCC NT new anymore as they don't make it they make FCC N001 or FCC X001 N001 is the older style nissan hand controller - this should work - their serial is usually like RB20 or RB25 or RB26 (note its the actual engine code) X001 is the newer style hand controller - for users who have the bundle style PFC - their serial is usually like ECR33 (note it changed to the actual car code) or GTR33-L (BNCR33 l-jetro)

glad u got it sorted - its good to nut a big problem - then you can have a beer and a laugh and say hey we fixed it

swap with someone who has a working PFC RB26 and try it you can't reflash/update it - only selected workshops can and none in aus

ATP

it will be N001 - but get abu to check, on his hand controller should be a white sticker on the back of it or get him to post whats in ETC, VERSION

check the physical loom connector to the PFC as you have been messing around with wires and swapping ECUs check the actual plug is connecting properly most common causes of crap running with the PFC and wierd idle etc is the actual harness isnt connected or is a bit loose tighten the bolt a little too to make sure its straight and even and a firm snug fit. you should do the self idle learn, once the ECU is stable it sounds like the stock AFM and q45 AFM you have are both OK its just you have some wierd idle problem - see above

haha

if its reading 3v like that its toast or the ground is shagged - where is your ground coming from

where there is no TPS signal the PFC goes into protect mode and kicks the idle rpm to 1500RPM

remapped ecu - probably junk god knows what the state of the tune is etc - if your going to use it, plonk it on a dyno and check afr's and look for detonation etc

this has been covered to death do a search and youll find dozens of threads of people trying to fit or who have fitted ebay style front plenums and the issues, results etc

yeah with the Z32 you need to choose VG30 80mm from the menu VH41 is for the Q45 AFM these just alter the load ramp, the Z32 should actually run and start OK with even the stock AFM selected

3v is too high for the AFM not running - unplug it and see if it starts and idles theres no such thing as different model PFC to suit series 1 or 2 - its the same unit and theres no option to choose between s1 or s2

yeah there are some known issues where the PFC wont work but the stock ecu will when doing engine swap style changes - its in the FAQ with the AFM and TPS connected up, turn the car to ON, but don't start it on the hand controller goto ETC, SENSOR SW CHECK AFM-1 should be like 1.0v or somewhere there - and it shouldnt move TPS should be 0.33v or like 0.35v - and it shouldnt move - should move when you mash the accel pedal if either of these arent reading like that, the car wont run/start correctly

debug this with the std throttle body - you have changed too many things, new loom, different car, different t/b, different ECU and so on. go and get the std throttle body - put it on and debug. once you clear the issue. then refit the q45 t/b. i bet the issue is with the t/b using the stock ecu and q45 t/b as a debug point woudlnt provide useful results i would expect so dont bother