paulr33

without a dyno plot its just guess work it could be cams, exhaust backpressure, other leaks in on inlet side, etc etc etc there could be dozens of reassons and so much has changed without afr plot, pressure and power/torque plots its all guess work - take it to a dyno or the tuner and get a power run plot

i expect this would only happen if you floor it in the wet ?

new pfc's are $920 delivered with hand controller from nengun - but 2 month wait

series 1 GTR is 1995 to early 1996 series 2 GTR is 1996 to mid 1997 series 3 GTR is 1998 pretty sure

hi dave, we are just curious what your business does and who the business is ?

have a read of http://paulr33.skylinesaustralia.com/docs/...erfc-faq.htm#61 it shows you how the "LOAD" calculations are worked out once you understand this its easy to understand how the correction % stuff works and where the FC gets and decides the load values from

is that cos its microtech or cos its map sensor thats its poo ?

hi GT, you can use the AFM ramp table to help you do this - each voltage range has a % correction chaning the number applies correction to the final load CALC which reaches the load number - you can see 21321 so it works a bit like this LOAD = (AFM V * lookup value from hidden ramp ) * % correction) so say your afm is 4.0v and on the hidden ramp table in datalogit for 4.2 to 4.4v its got airflow value of 8000 then it will use that work out the "load" calc and then apply correction so say it gives you a final "load" value of 18000 for 4.2v but on the AFM ramp table (on the hand controller_) you have %80 correct for 4.2v upto 4.8v then it will drop that final load value to say 16000 (lets pretend thats %80 of 18000) this is how you shift it aroiund on the load axis - boost means nothing as its ljetro so you its purely AFM load and ramp so in your case find out what AFM voltage its reading when you drop to row 20 (im guessing around 4.8v) then for the range on SETTING, AIRFLOW (press NEXT TWICE) edit 4.8v correction and change it from (its probably %100) to say %90 this will then apply correction and should bring it back down to say maybe row 18 be careful when doing this - because if you move it to row say 18 and that row has been properly tuned it could have unsafe AFRS" or too much timing etc as its using new load calls - so be careful;

a mate of mine got a tatoo up his forearm its pretty big and long it says davison in some cryptic text - only the tatooist did one of the letters upside down so it reads danison the v came out upside down

how much power do you plan to make? 50kw? 500kw?

i have some suggestions 1) debug it with a mechanic / car sparky 2) stop making new threads 3) if the car starts with the AFM unplugged, its obvious the AFM your using is toast- try a new or check the wiring/fuses 4) last run stock ecu DIAG with the AFM connected, what is the AFM voltage with the car on ACC (not started)

250kw is really on the border line of the stock injectors with an FPR they might be ok or they might be on their knees and risk engine safety

i stll don't understand how different octane fuel affects economy is there some "real" reason i - mean 98 from shell and 98 from caltex

ive been with just cars for about 2+ years now they seem reasonable and rates/prices are ok just make sure you read all of the policy items - including the excess's for example for my car its; 1200 for the car 1400 for a male over 25 wheels excess i think is 1200 etc etc so if the car gets flogged its 1200 if i stack it its 2600 for a claim etc also check market value you can list mods to bump up the value, ie GTR seats increases value, stereo increases value, so literally add everything i added to my policy - gtr pump - gtr seats - powerfc - exhaust - intercooler - boost controller - digital speedo - wheels & tyres - stereo - pod filter

no worries the main issue with fitting another 2nd hand jobbie is - its age and likelyness to fail its going to be a 10+ year old plus turbocharger with cermamic wheels etc and theres a chance (minor) that when it fails , it takes the engine down with it, need a full rebuild so sometimes its better to just bite the bullet and pay for a highflow but on the other end of the scale i have my rb25t with 185,000 on it and std turbo with std specs and no highflow / rebuild etc so its 85,000 overdue for a 'overhaul' - the turbo is so i guess you could say its likely to fail - i run 12psi and trash it but i dont "think" it will take down the engine too when it fails - so i dont justify the $ in rebuild the turbo

hi nic when a turbo is "old" the bearings and seals become worn the actual wheels themselves are reasonalby ok so when they highflow a turbo they rip out the bearing kit (known as CHRA) and replace it with a new ball bearing pack they replace the wheels with steel wheelies (gets rid of ceramic and plastic wheels), balance it, and service the lines (oil and water) the only parts that are "retained" when highflowing are the housings and compressors cover as they don't "wear out" they even bore out the exhaust snout to get more "flow" out of it - hence the name highflowing the only difference between servicing a turbo at its scheduled 100,000km interval and hiflowing is they fit bigger/better wheels and bore out the snout exhaust hole to get more flow out of it

seriously throw the to4e in the bin its not worth the hassles, costs and pain and its crap `1960s technology get your stocker hiflowed (will last another 100,00kms) or buy a 2nd hand stocker for $300 a 2nd hand stocker will be better than an ebay to4e

ah yeah sorry forgot 2nd hand stocker jobbie

if its only just strated since you installed the z32 and injectors then these are the likely culprits put the stock AFM and see how it starts, its probably OK - so i would say its the injectors check your injector latency and correction and check the cold start cranking also note the water temp when the problem occurs - it might help, as you can use the cold start cranking to correct it

handy tip hey

isnt that your old 3litre GTR? (same plates) looks good whatever it is

your options are; 1. get the current busted turbo highflowed - around $2k for a ball bearing unit 2. get a 2nd hand aftermarket turbo (hks 2530, hks 2535, trust td05, apexi ax) 3. get a new aftermarket turbo (hks gt-rs, hks 2835) being in nsw ask the guys in the NSW area for a list of workshops, theres probably a list already CRD and UAS are two workshops that come to mind in NSW , no idea where they are from blacktown

no it doesnt fit - lots of fabrication work required and its smaller

find out the full story first - it could have been one of the crap mecahnics on his last doing being a prick - who knows it doesnt excuse the lack of quality controll but the workshop might not have had any idea one of their hack mecahnics did something dodogy

i guess it comes down to quality control and sign off once a car is completed looks like they didnt check it or go over it before customer handover if it was my workshop i would have someone else (who didnt do the worK) check all areas of said work and tick them on a page - to ensure somthing like this wasn't released - then once that sheet is ticked it, stick a copy under the windscreen and ring the customer saying the car is ready maybe i should run my own workshop eh