paulr33

nice videos... - you sound like girls haha

sell it on yahoo auctions and buy a locally supported ecu

there are known fakes and courterfeits when buying the pro version - buyer beware - its in the FAQ if you want to pick a legit PRO from a non-legit one

mythbusters ahoy! the fuel pump sucks from the bottom of the tank so that means there is no magical "dirt, gunk, sediment" etc on the bottom of the tank, if there was it would be sucking it up all the time, not just when its empty and theres a sock filter on the pump, plus an inline filter before the fuel rail so that wont be the cause. running a car empty is fine

they are different - covered in the PFC FAQ in my signature

its a transaxle thats indepedant

booked in for next friday - email out also sent

any brake place can do it - just cos its a skyline doesnt mean it has super special systems etc try brakesplus.com.au - will be resonably priced etc - just shop around

by using the fc load and elec load settings or some other way ? or is it an RPM intercerptor that grabs the RPM signal and caps it to the PFC - SAFC style intercetor >?

im with ash - sunday afternoon

i dont know - ive never setup a djetro PFC but i think it should come from the plenum and i think the boost signal should come from as close to the turbo outlet as possible

sunday pub - gun island near albert park forget the motorshow http://www.melbournepubs.com/v/480/

yeah realise it will be chockers but should be a good night - quite a few people from work coming too. ive got 54 sick days haha

yeah i would expect so typically - but its always better to quote lower and over-deliver then to set high expectations

hi, there are a few versions of the boost control kit for the powerfc. the two mainstream versions are usually known as the 3pin kit and 5pin kit. the denomination of this comes from the socket on the side of the powerfc that's being used on the car. so an ECR33 PFC and BCNR33 PFC will have the 3 pin kit port on the side (white socket next to hand controller port). An RB20 Ap engineering PFC I would expect would have a 5 pin kit port, but it could also be 3 pin kit port - only one way to find out. *** if you have 3pin kit port on your PFC *** The car you are installing it into already had an existing boost control solenoid that is switched by the factory ECU. This is usually a factory dual stage boost style setup that involves a solenoid opening at a certain set of conditions. like on the GTST this is usually after 4500rpm the solenoid opens and it runs more boost - aka dual stage style. the 3pin kit port PFC boost kit that you purchase comes with - boost kit harness (3 pin version) - with 3 wires which run to the map sensor - map sensor - boost solenoid with plug you don't reuse the existing boost solenoid that came on the car, but you re-use the wiring and plug that it has. so on the GTST you simply unplug the std boost solenoid put the apexi one in it's place and it fits to the same plug. no more wiring is required for the solenoid. you then install the map sensor and run the 3 wire loom with plug from the map sensor to the port on the side of the PFC. plug in the map sensor supplied and the boost kit is installed ready for use. if you can't find the stock boost solenoid wiring on the car's harness you are looking for "wastegate solenoid". once you find this wire this will be a switched ground wire that the PFC will switch based on conditions for boost control. you run this wire to the solenoid and then source 12v power from somewhere else for the other wire. if you get the wiring wrong it simply wont work and youll be unlimited boost mode, you can't get 12v and ground wrong, it doesn't complete the circuit. *** if you have 5pin kit port on your PFC *** The car you are installing it into doesnt have a dual stage style boost or a boost solenoid or possibly wasn't turbocharged from factory. It could also be an ap engineering style PFC or a different version PFC that happens to work on the car the 5pin kit port PFC boost kit that you purchase comes with - boost kit harness (5pin version) - with 3 wires which run to the map sensor and 2 for the boost solenoid - map sensor - boost solenoid with plug as there are no existing boost solenoid wires or "wastegate solenoid" wires on the loom the boost kit includes these. you run the two pair wires to the boost solenoid and the 3 pair wires to the map sensor.

i think if a car is setup properly and tuned properly you can get better gains out of a std off the shelf 600x300 FMIC over the a smaller side mount core in the side mount location with the std turbo. i think the main issue with the SMIC is heatsoak once it gets hot and lack of space / ducting to direct airflow through it properly when its on the side and tucked away. i think and this is only theorising that the fmic mashed bang smack in the middle and with a larger core provides a better heat drop across the core and yeilds and better heat extraction. yes this is a noticable throttle response loss if you fit a FMIC and do no other changes (of course, you increase the inlet volume). but if you the tune the car and increase boost etc the gains outweigh the loss in throttle response once setup correctly

ball park is around 260kw ish at the rears the kit would be just short of $3k delivered including all the junk etc you have two rear housing options being 0.68 and 0.87 for the rb25 from memory and previous posts from guys who have used it - most have said go the 0.87 rear you can check the rb25 turbo upgrade thread and look for some users who have fitted the 2835 to their rb25 and their dyno results

nah no callcentre work for me - may even get out of the ISP industry - depends on whats out there my role is technical manager at dodo i run the team who look after all the servers, routers, networks, infrastructure for dodo its a team of about 14 guys who run everything 24/7 so things like disk arrays, email severs, database servers, web systems, core networks, dsl broadband network and so on

not really for public discussion - pm if you like

yeah ive been with dodo since day 0 - they started in 2001 oh ok - who was your mate?

a bit offtopic - for others reading - uas or nismo.com.au have a brake adapter kit so you can use GTR rotors on GTST calipers and pads it just allows you to move the calipers further away so you can use GTR size rotors or DBA 5000 rotors and retain the same brake calipers, lines etc

hey gang my last day is Friday March 14th so we shall be going out Friday night!!! When: friday march 14th after 5pm Where: belgian beer cafe on st kilda rd

hi leon, the ECR33 and BCNR33 powerfc have a 3 pin boost control kit port on the side of the PFC this is for the map sensor for the boost control kit (do NOT mix this up with the djetro map sensors). the boost solenoid gets power from the existing wastegate solenoid wiring which is used with the stock ecu. from memory the ECR33 and BCNR33 had this on the wiring loom as "wastegate solenoid" but the RB20 loom i don't think has this wiring. If it does then you connect the solenoid to this "wastegate solenoid" wire and the ground to chassis ground. If your RB20 loom doesn't have this wire then you will need to run it yourself. The power wire nees to run the ECR33/BCNR33 PFC wiring socket on the actual PFC - check out the wiring diagrams to find out what PIN # it is on the PFC and then get ground from chassis ground. The boost solenoid uses a 12v power and switched ground to turn it on and off - so you can't get it wrong, if you do it just won't work

http://www.mininova.org/det/1214919 episodes 1 to 10 & seeds

i see no need to over-complicate it and modify an intercooler to suit another car/application you can buy intercooler kits for $500 supplied & fitted these days from most workshops that support skylines