paulr33

of course but thats like anything you could go get a 1987 vl and spend 20k and destroy the 34 like wise with an rx7 or one of those rx3 rotaries, spend $xx,000 on them and it will beat the 34 that doesnt make it a better car - just makes it a faster accelerating car i think you can get more acceleration out the BNR34 i think it runs taller diff gears in the rear (3.7 ish?) whereas the others ran 4:11's

what can you afford and how are you paying for the car then you should consider what model you can afford both have distinct advanges, disadvantages, costs, bugs, features etc so until you work out your budget - you got nothing

hi, there could be many reasons for the inflated figure - i would doubt the 238kw with 16psi on the std turbo and std GTST setup i would expect there is something to the puzzle that we are missing, the dyno sheet would help clear up some issues the usual culprits that inflate dyno figures; - 3rd gear instead of 4th - aftermarket turbo when owner thinks std - highflowed turbo when owner thinks std - different diff gears - inflated intake temps (IT on the dyno plot) - different style dyno ie: hub dyno, or dynapack (us style etc). - most people expect dyno dynamics shootout - mixup of shootout mode vs non-shootout mode (you shouldnt compare the two) - incorrect ramp, load, shoot style settings (ie SHOOT4F on 6 cylinder car) etc etc as you can see there are lots and lots of reasons for the inflated figure - sure it could even be a legit 238kw figure but its more likely to fail

i could make 300kw on the std turbo

this friday coming!

hi

also for the original poster get a suitable FMIC, i woudlnt bother with a SMIC given the cost of FMIC kits these days most workshops can do a std style FMIC fitted for $500 and dont even bother with the f-con only HKS dealers with pro access can tune FCON and there would be like 2 in austrlaia go with a local supported - motec, microtech, powerfc, autronic etc etc - ask some local tuners (pick 5) what they can and do support FCONs are a great ecu, just a pity no one can tune them in AUS

are you talking about the turbo timer wires? then if so, i dont know what colour is what

look at your car's engine loom wiring (its on my site in my signature) and then you need to run it to the 02 sensor wire on the car loom

whilst we could all sit here all night and debate compressor wheel speeds and various turbocharger failures etc none of it is %100 guarantee its all based on experience, state of the car, state of the turbo, state of the tune, state of how the car is driven and many many many other factors just cos XYZ run 14psi for XYZ days and it didnt fry doesnt mean that ABC can run 14psi and not fry it. likewise at 12psi, just cos it works for most dones't guarantee you wont fry it. can you afford to rebuild/replace the turbo if it fails? you have option of a 2nd hand stocker $500 ish you have option of a new ball bearing unit $1300+ (gt28 vanila garret etc) you have option of rebuilding to highflow spec $2000 - yes and happy to spend $ when it fries run 12,13 or 14psi and away you go - no but if it came to it, i would find the $ to replace it run a safe (12psi) moderate setting and hope it doesn't fail - no and absolutely cant afford $20 to fix anything run a safe 10psi and leave it at that other info 12psi on an rb25 and 12psi on an rb25 attached to an rb20 are not the same thing, the rb25 engine flows more gas - its not the same comparison there have been known cases where turbine failure can cause engine failure, which means engine rebuild which is usually $2000 ish in reasonable cases heat is the main killer usually, from state of tune or shaft speed too high (higher boost means faster shaft speed) the compressor wheel is rated to a given PSI, after that PSI level any increase results in minimal gains but excessive stress & heat most guys on this forum will say 12psi is about that level for the stock rb25 turbo - so going to 13psi is great, but it might not give you much more power, even though "its more PSI, so it must be" in most reasonable cases, once the compressor is past its effiency (lets say it is 12psi) then you just dial more heat into the engine (as the compressor is spinning too fast) and put excess stress on the shaft and wheels etc. commons signs of turbocharger failure - oil in the intake pipes (oil seal is shagged) - if you see oil in your pipes, wipe it away and check in 2 days, if it comes back, your oil seal on the turbocharger is leaking (note: CATCH CANS HIDE/MASK this issue away, so if you have one, check that) - whinnny / noissy compressor windup can indicate shaft / bearing wear - puffs of smoke, pops and then lack of boost would indicate turbocharger failure (exhaust wheel fail) - small bang and then lack of car power could indicate compressor wheel failure (its plastic on the rb25 turbo) and this can be ingested into the engine (we saw a compressor mashed into bits and stuck at the throttle body on one engine) turbochargers like most things dont live forever, there are things you can do it try and keep it for as long as possible as per the nissan spec (pretty sure) they should be serviced every 100,000kms and i can guarantee most don't do it by service i think it means new bearing kit, balance the items and inspect any other compressor/wheel damage and replace as needed (ie: almost rebuild)

the 02 sensor option on the timer is a waste of time and effort - not worth it seriously

thats probably using brembo pads, fluids and proper service schedule checks etc would also include machining rotors etc so yeah you can probably see why its so much i rememebr someone talking about bnr34 compliance and if the workshop doesnt use the original brembo pads then you have to fork out for a complete new set of brembo pads which is like $1500 or something spastic but yeah any brake place can fit pads and do the normal work heck even abs.com.au can do it - auto brake service, just a mainstream brake place

in for thursday night friday night no chance

call ghostbusters

if you want some info the club, what the members rides are like, DECA info etc check out http://www.sauvic.com.au/

if you want some detailed shots of the engine, interior and driveline etc have a look at ; http://paulr33.skylinesaustralia.com/photo...gtr/page_01.htm i stole them from everyone else - but still worth a look

could be either - give it a few days

Von Dutch

the nissan ECR33 service manual should tell you the voltage range of the sensor - check out the sections covering consult diag - it shows you how to do each diag and what the ranges should be - of course you can't do consult diag but it will give you an idea of what acceptable levels are. the 02-1 sensor shouldnt go past 1.0v its a slow and narrow sensor, it should only go between 0.0v and 1.0v any sensor that is out of range will be highlighted with a black background in the ETC, SENSOR SW/CHECK screen and the engine check light will also be on (orange engine icon) on the cluster

buy a real ecu and get it tuned - powerfc will do the trick

if you start it and it pours out black smoke - just use the temp INJ correct to make it idle semi normally if you want to induce knocking just use the temp IGN adjust to increase the timing a bit - say +5 under IGN then just give it a rev a few times - with UP on 1 CHANNEL, KNOCK, NEXT, then press UP to view top score vodka is the preferred drink

electronic controlling aparatus - so its exempt from import tax

see you all there - this a is key meeting and interested people (members & non members) should come down to have their say and find out whats going on with the club for 2008 and 09

is a BNR34 one a direct / easy fit? could be suitable if you can find it cheap even has a temperature probe built into the core

im in