paulr33

i know you say it works on the stock ecu and not on the z32 nistune board just check you have a working NTR switch, from memory, VCT (at least on the stock ecu) wont fire in neutral, the car must be in gear (clutch in)

dont forget NTR must be OFF for VCT to fire ie if your in nuetral or you havent wired in the NTR switch, the VCT wont engage from memory #DEFINE VCT 1 func main(void) { if(RPM < 1800 && ! switch(NTR)) { func(VCT); }; return; }; i dont think its speed related at all ?

http://www.nengun.com/nop/power-fc-new-el-hand-controller-d-jetro-nissan-ecr33

more boost

a set..... ? do it take off your std twins and bolt on twin t04z highmount

sik jet http://www.carsales.com.au/all-cars/private/details.aspx?R=11370816&keywords=&SearchAction=N&__Ntk=CarAll&__Nne=15&__Dx=mode%20matchany&__D=evolution&silo=1011&seot=1&__sid=13149558656F&__N=1216%201246%201247%201252%201282%204294966896%204294964597%204294766348&__Ns=pCar_RankSort_Int32|1||pCar_PriceSort_Decimal|1||pCar_Make_String|0||pCar_Model_String|0&__Qpb=1&__Ntx=mode%20matchallpartial&Cr=2&__Ntt=evolution&trecs=16

big single t04z

i've seen drunker

no way in hell you would want to pay 17k for a BNR32 and 20k for BCNR33 i reckon you could get the BCNR33 for 17k and the BNR32 if you can get the BCNR33 for 17k then that should be surely worth sub 15k, even less, its over 20 years old!!! ive seen stock BCNR33s go for 17k in melbourne but, the big but is.......... if you plan to mod the car, but a modified one already you will come out way in front buying a BCNR33 with all the mods vs buying a stock BCNR33 and the doing the mods yourself

yep, if you tune for it (or remap for it) its fine but it will be sluggish and youll be limited to a low amount of boost so if you are ok with that, go for it but imho it would be pretty dull and sluggish

dont go Z32s, no need, go twin nismo's, direct swap and easier to fit/install/mate up go for the one with splitfires if the conditions are roughly the same, one less thing to fail/die (coilpacks common mtbf part in GTR/GTST)

what are you using for boost control the stock ecu has a ton of protection so that if you increase boost, it basically dumps all the timing to protect itself

it wont cause damage thing of the big powered v8s that come with tiny pee shooter exhausts factory

get a lift to where you are going and fix it tomorrow when its not urgent?

good work and all the best thanks again

if they stopped and waited for everyone the service would be always late and everyone would complain

nengun actually offer a special rb25 djetro to suit ecr33 . have a look o o

tps is ok as when its closed for idle, its 0.30v or thereabouts so thats ok but i guess you need to ask yourself when did this issue first start has it started since youve made a ton of changes or has it started without any other changes - ie something has failed? the ecu can only do what it can but the mechanical side of the engine always takes over (ie vac lines, misconfiguration, leaks etc)

yeah 2 minutes is a bit excessive, as gotrice said it looks at 02 feedback to predict engine load, thus to guess how long it should idle for the temperature of the turbocharger would remain 100+s deg for 15min+ of the engine being off, so you arent cooling down the turbocharger, just the bearingsany more than 30 seconds probably achieves zero the turbocharger turbo timer idea comes from cooking the bearings in certain bearing type units i forget which ones, but some are more prone to failure if they have an excessive core temp and then the oil flow stops the oil flow is an essential coolant and if it stops running instantly and the core temp is excessive then they can fail, or reduce their life but this would only occur if you were say doing a full spec rally stage or a series of laps on a track and then instantly turn the engine off and have a certain bearing type. im pretty sure this type of issue was nuked post 1980s with ball bearings etc - they are more resilient now

but as adriano said, its more likely a vac leak in the rubber vac lines this stuff is as old as the car and is prone to splits and cracks etc which cause wonky idea 2 minutes with some plies and youll nuke the high idle

djetro gtr - are your 02 sensors plugged in? are they working? if they arent connected or mangled disable 02 feedback also do you have IDLE-IG under FUNCTION SELECT? try using that

good work and well done looking forward to seeing it

that doesnt make sense "guy at the battery shop said it didnt have enough cold cranking amps" if there arent enough amps its dead obvious, the lights go dim, you can hear the starter motor struggle and it basically tries to start as if something is strangling it's neck that sounds more like the immoboliser is stuck on or something obvious like that there is either enough amperage in the battery, or there isn't its dead obvious when there isnt, lights go dim when you try to crank, starter motor struggles to turn over (you can hear it struggling) the basics when starting air, fuel, spark inputs, water temp sensor, airflow meter outputs, crank angle sensor, injectors, coilpacks it should start without water temp sensor and airflow meter it wont start without CAS, injectors, coilpacks, air, fuel or spark, or power

the challenge you have with going for a larger turbocharger is you will turn up the boost then you need a clutch, fuel pump, ecu and a tune you can always recondition the standard turbocharger to the same specs that is, bascially a highflow (its the same thing) without highflow spec parts

if the battery is at fault and it fails to crank due to battery its dead obvious everything goes dim and you can hear the alternator struggling to turn over