paulr33

the stock intake piping is accordian style to avoid reversion over the AFM hotwire signal you might find using prefectly curved pipework with a smooth edge introduces reversion which makes the AFM tell the ECU you have whacko air flow meter load, thus it stalls this is common when people change their intake pipe to nice smooth shiny finish pipework (like what you are doing)

wish there was a way to rejig the factory guage to use an external aftermarket sensor or use a replacement quick as all hell sensor i know adam was looking at this but had no luck

yeah that is odd it should work as the EL controller works on every powerfc except chaser auto can you show me a pic of ETC, VERSION on your powerfc if you have another working hand controller? if you dont can you look at what the version string is on the side of the powerfc case? it should a white sticker with ECR33-XXXXXX or RB25-XXXXXX

what ecu are you using? the ecu should tell you why the check engine light is on but if the dash cluster is going spazzo it could be anything given its only started since youve had work done id say thats probably your souce ie loose or shorted out wires etc

when did the problem start what has been recently changed on the car has this problem always been present or just recently is the dash cluster the original or has it been swapped/modified/tampered

the factory service interval that nissan specify is a simple regular hassle free maitenance program take for example my gf's swift. they spec to replace the air filter panel at 40,000kms obviously it can do much more and it looks like, but the spec is to replace to maintain optimum and hassle free maitenance the main sevicing components on the turbochargers is probably the bearings and oil seals my gtst has 240,000 but its far from prefect with the std turbo it blows some smoke on boost and uses a bit of oil (oil seal probably dead on the turbo) so it still works, but its far from optimum i see no issues with factory turbocharger servicing ie at 100,000 but no one does it (including me)

ok ?

its pretty simple really if he drives it, guess what he will try and do? spool it up and see how hard it goes so basically, no dont drive it

im dead serious ive never heard of him i was saying the same thing last night who is he? anyhoo its some rally guy he started dc shoes too apparently still never heard of him

that is the most random reason for turning off a device i have ever heard when the cars running the safc would use bugger all voltage off the alternator i found in my 33 i have amps that run direct to the battery these are what kill a battery in an r33

i still have no idea who he is

agree it makes no sense either use it and install it properly or dont install it and dont use it but if you realllllllly wanted to do that then you would use a pair of relays on a toggle switch my a-lsd is setup like this

yes the only way, if you cant start the powerfc, or have it running in the car is the sticker on the powerfc case if this sticker is removed, you have no way to work out what version, other than with a working hand controller connected to it and viewing etc, version you can read here http://www.paulr33.com/powerfc-faq/powerfc-faq.htm#70 but in summary there are two mainstream powerfc versions the first gen was sold without the hand controller and the model # is the car's engine model ie RB26D or RB25 or RB20 so on the side of the powerfc case it has a serial number like RB25-201022 etc etc or RB26-232221 the second gen was sold with hand controller in a bundle and the model # is the car's model ie ECR33 or BCNR33 so on the side of the powerfc case it has serial number like BCNR33L-4232123 or BNR34L-2321144 The L stands for L jetro ie, airflow meter and D stands for Djetro - ie BNR34D-21211 is R34 GTR djetro now the hand controllers come in 3 batches usually known as FCC, FCC2/3 and then FCC EL (aka FCC4) FCC EL or FCC4 works on every powerfc regardless FCC only works on first gen powerfc FCC2/3 works on first gen and second gen powerfc

try a truck place too, they would have some strong silicon joiners for truck intercooler pipework

no, the Z32 AFM is not better than the stock GTST afm. Both are 3 or 4 wire, hotwire Air flow meters that are 80mm in size. The Z32 AFM allows for a wider tuning scale but it does zero to add more rwkw or average power etc.

if oil pressure was zero the idiot light would be on (assuming it works)

peak rwkw doesnt make a car quick, average power does what does your dyno chart look like and how is it tuned? you can 200rwkw and then you can have "200rwkw" its all in the tune stock ECR33 is 140rwkw the only way to push 10rwkw is to make the turbocharger work harder, or lean out the mixtures, or change your wheel size most are not a good idea, a stock turbo at 200rwkw is pretty much on the failure level already - ie around 12psi ish

the problem is going from 200rwkw to 230rwkw or even 250rwkw is a $5k exercise are you sure you aren't happy with 200rwkw? a 200rwkw gtst if setup properly is pretty quick and should beat most cars on the street you cant really get a turbo for 230rwkw, its usually 250rwkw a highflow or HKS GT-RS will get you there but then to support it you need injectors air flow meter fuel pump stand alone ecu or decent remap so its hard to get any more rwkw without a decent outlay - ie $5k inc the turbo purchase itself if you really really want that power go for it, but its not cheap highflow or GT-RS is about the same result highflow is guaranteed to mate up GT-RS you can sell your old stocker for $100 but then you may have to play around with exhaust to make it fit but then you call your friends you have a HKS turbo both are "new" and no difference as far as reliablity etc

even if the afm is mangled under certian conditions the worst it woudl do is give incorrect load reading, either lean out or richen up (smoke or pinging) it doesnt explain the RPM needle going from 4000 down to 3,500 or 3,000 with the accel pedal still pressed nothing matches the symptom with the problem other than a clutch slipping or auto box toast (if its auto), which is still a clutch no afm, map sensor, intake pipe, external wastegate, blah blah would make the needle slip like that

how on earth do you reach that conclusion? if the AFM is a fault, rev cut is 2500rpm and the ecu does hard fuel cut, thus you cannot rev past 2500rpm if spark is breaking down the engine misfires its ass off but the rev needle doesn't slip if the clutch is slipping or worn the engine revs until peak torque, around 3500rpm (on boost) and slips and then re-grips when past peak torque so i have no idea how you believe its afm or spark but good luck

$80? must be good the usually go for $250

aim for better average power over a higher top end max rwkw gt-ss or -7s would be better suited to make a quicker overall car stay away from the nismo's they are older spec and don't forget a fuel pump

this is what a clutch does when it is warn out and slips it free revs higher then slips and so forth baby it around and get a new clutch if you keep pushing it, it will fail, and take the flywheel with it the stock clutch is pretty basic and not geared up for heavy use

if its trying to crank and it wont it sounds like you tripped out the immobiliser or its stuck "ON" thus she will try and wont fire engine starting is simple equastion of air fuel spark if the ecu thinks its tripped the security or immobolised itself the ecu wont fire fuel, thus no start engine that woudl also explain the red key icon ie ive lcoekd myself out and immobolised

i always thought the NATS system was seperate to the main ECU ie what happens if you flatten your battery at your shops surely there is a way to drive the car again after a flat battery i would try another stock ECU its not different to flattening the battery and the ECU's loosing any non-battery backed ram data i dont think the NATS ecu would have a serial # check to the stock ecu to say hey, your a stock ecu, but im expecting ECU serial ID 104030433, and your seiral id is 23903209932 go away it should work how much is a new stock ecu ?