paulr33

i guess at the end of the day if you turn the car off unexpectedly or you have to then theres a big risk youll kill the bearings in the plain bearing turbo

something internally is fried, as others have said. do you have the hand controler? youll probably see garlbed characters on the screen. i had this problem with mine from some dodgy wiring experiments. resoldered the burnt track and all was good after that

what was actually wrong with the launch control settting? was it lower than idle or something ? the launch control RPM setting under SETTING is a ceiling RPM limit. it should only really affect it if you hold the throttle down. ie: while the speed = 0km the rev limit is that alternate setting, i gues it would only be a problem of its too low, or under the idle limit.

i can make any dyno figure you like at the end of the day as well stick the air inlet temp up the exhaust and then remove the shootout mode parameters. or even just dial in more manual correction, change the ramp rate and so on. the dyno is useful as a tuning tool and good for back to back comparision when used on the same dyno with the same settings. this is the point of shootout mode, to lock those settings and compensate for airtemp changes. if you have a run and it says RR015 and then a run of RR013 the results will be different, same with AT and IT. Ramp rate intake temp ambient temp

i still dont understand the matt black section on the bonnett is it meant to be there or a painting mistake/error ?

corrected powerfc dongle information added INJ guesstimation for lambda added airflow precentage correction map scaling added updated datalogit version added missing eccs image

http://members.dodo.com.au/paul/pics/q45/q45-9.JPG 90mm opening diamater, they are just over 3.5" outside diameter bright yellow sticker

i posted it up before, 13.7 @ 105.mph was my best with a busted lsd and cold track raction 0.6933 60ft 2.13 et 13.75 mph 105.5 ambient temp 16.1 humidity 60%

it might actually focus some time n effort on the 6000 dropoff i could feel the power drop on the dragstrip at heathcote changing past 6 grand felt slower at the strip.

please do, and ill post it up

if youve just installed it and have no hand controller the check light will be on due to the boost kit not being present. youll need a hand controller to turn it off. i highly recommend a hand controller for every day use and ease of control. after all, thats what you brought a standalone engine management system for. to manage it

http://members.dodo.com.au/paul/ documents; Nissan OEM Airflow Wiring Diagrams; covers the common models and sizes and wiring if someone can kindly send me a gtr rb26 afm ill post it up (need pic and wiring/pinouts)

you could ask on the datalogit forums? are you all (who are seeting the same problem) using the same PFC version ?

3" batmbl split dump, 3" hiflow cat, 3" exhaust all custom exhaust shop crap, no brand name stuff. my average power rocks, my car feels so quick on the street

my afr's are on my dyno sheets http://members.dodo.com.au/paul/pics/dyno/...r33-193rwkw.jpg the tune has been alterted slightly, i have throw in a stack load more timing in the low end 8x8 area and also cranked out the cuirse afr's in the 8x8 area to get some super economy. there is also on avg a 2deg increase on the ign map everywhere. the top end we arent sure why it dies off. ive looked at it, a tuner has and we can't figure it out its a series 2 with 150,000 on the clock. the top off dying has always been there, since day one when i got the car 50,000 with stock ecu

i have read what you said, several times. and i have seen the comments by cubes. both of which i have read and understood. the car hasn't been to the same place, its been to 3 different places and i have done some touch up tuning myself, mainly advance some timing here or there and lean out the afr's more for better economy. so now you think its the turbo or something else causing the lack of power? are you sure? which one is it? its the same in your case. the ecu isnt the only thing that makes power. perhapps something else in your car is different anyway im over it im happy with my ecu and tune, you keep your stock ecu tune and keep ranting about it making the same power. we're both happy

im aware of the top end dropping off. its always been there. so how is the rest of the tune shit. how are the cruise afr's shit how is the low cruise IGN timing shit. how is the max load ign timing shit

ok so how is it poorly tuned please explain what's "poorly" tuned about it

im really not that interested to be honest, i am well aware of the advantages of moving to the powerfc, and the disadvtanges staying with the stock ecu. having used the pFC for nearly 2 years now i see no point in staying with the stock ecu. my best time with a cold track and busted lsd was 13.7 @ 105mph and again, on a dyno all it compares is max power. i do not care about max power, average power makes a car fast. the response makes it fast. lets just leave it at you make x power on x dyno with x ecu and i made y power with y ecu on y dyno. its not like 25 peiople are going to say oh crap the pfc is really crap, so and so can make 200rwkw on stock ecu, damn what a waste of course not. anyway back on topic

a drag run is likely to prove even more incosistent results. and with my car having a busted lsd its likely to prove i have lots of wheelspin and nothing more. a lot of people rate an aftermarket ecu on the max power it makes. max power is probably 1/5th of the main featureset from an aftermarket ecu. on cruise response, throttle response and all the other important bits inbetween is what matters. how often are you on max load on the street? maybe 10% of the time, if that? the bits in the middle matter. i can assure you my ignition timing would be much more advanced than yours in the low areas, and this is where it counts. sure you can advance your timing on the cas and get whatever comes out, the stock ecu is likely to just drop the low octane map when it picks up detonation. also different dyno on a different day, the results are not really useful to compare. i think we also have different ramp rate. higher ramp rate generally yields lower power. so this could account for some of it too but anyway this is way off topic, perhaps there should be a stock ecu vs powerfc. im sure of the results before the thread has even started.

and face lets pretend for a seconds its a true stock ecu and nothing has been changed which i dont believe. whats the benefit in retaining the stock ecu? you cant tune/adjust the IGN timing on the maps you cant tune/adjust the INJ settings on the maps you cant change airflow meters you cant change injectors you cant get real time debugging via a hand display or control unit so you've saved $960 big deal. i would much rather have the powerfc with a well tuned ign map with as good as can be cruise afr's and crisp response, which you only get once youve gone and tuned the IGN points, which takes time. i still wouldnt want to keep the stock ecu, given the choice

its not a stock ecu there is something else about the engine you arent aware of cams turbo ecu airflow meter something on the fuel rail something in the injectors or settings something has been altered to; a) make that power b) avoid the excess airflow protection c) post up afr's that will likely reveal the true answer

post up an AFR graph that will tell the full story i suspect near 12 AFR's which means its not a stock ecu or its been remapped

well what did you expect to happen? do you expect the powerfc would make double the max power? of course it wont. why would it? airflow makes power not ecu code or logic. sure it will most likely make more power, but certainly not double or triple. i think people just assume if you have a powerfc it should be at least 220rwkw as most can make near 180rwkw on stock ecu. and yes my max power dies off, i have known this for some time now. my rb25 has 150,000k's on it. how many does yours have

i know you can make over 200kw with the stock ecu, its nothing knew i am just curious as a stock stock ecu wont make that amount of power, it will encounter rich and retard protection. and usually if you bypass that it will still plummet to mega rich land somewhere near 10 afr's so your power goes out the window. the only way to bring it back into line near 12 is to piggyback fuel computer, trick/hack the afm or clamp it's signal. a piggyback fuel computer can clamp or keep limiting the afm signal to get around the excess protection. its not actually boost cut at all its excess airflow. nothing to do with boost