paulr33

and on the same token its much better to make a given power level on the lowest boost possible. it will be much better to drive, less laggy and have a good throttle response, and youll likely have decent compresison. if you need to run 2.2bar to make some good power its likely to be a laggy pos off boost and be a real crapstick to drive

stock car 7psi stock exhaust fit larger exhaust boost rises to say 9psi and you make 10rwkw more if you dropped the psi back to 7psi you would probably still make a bit more power. as you take away restrictions, the engine can flow more air easily, thus reducing the restriction, which in turn flows more air

my bad. yeah the newer models are ok im pretty sure my ecr33 pFC isnt reflashable and it was fairly new, 2002ish but still based on the old powerfc chipset this is my ECR33 from aroud 2002ish http://members.dodo.com.au/paul/docs/power...werfc-board.jpg it has the nec 78p3 processor

manifold turbo housing(s) dump pipe front pipe cat exhaust making any of these larger or taking away restriction is likely to yield more power. ie a dyno run with the gtss and the front pipes dropped unbolted is likely to make a bit more power as theres no back pressure from the cat being there

right so we are talking about 0.01 of a millivolt. whats the problem? its somewhere near 5100mv

as persistant one always gets the answer

i wont be competing in drift for dummies at this stage shagged lsd and tyres are really starting to take a beating

yep sam is cool, very good remapping skills wouldnt be surprised if he could remap a nintendo gameboy to be a powerfc hand controller

i'd be more scared spending another deca weekend away and seeing what brisby gets upto

i did all of mine in 2nd gear i never went into first if you need to rev it a bit in 2nd just mash the clutch pedal and let her rip

no idea. there is no auto tune mode. its simply a self idle learn procedure and its very easy to perform as an end user

what about it ? the afm max is 5100mv

i have the same unit 3 pressure ports on the solenoid i think mine is setup as 1) goes to actuator 2) goes to manifold 3) goes to fuel pressure reg line not sure what order however i could look at it tomorrow and tell you

the switch on the back is for internal gate or external gate not twin or dual actuator

why dont you call them and ask

that answers his question then doesnt it

i don't agree at all. the unit is plug and play. you can even swap the unit over while the battery is connected. i have done this mulitple times on my ECR33 and its fine. i have never had any issues or known of any out of the box issues.

what value ?

it will be the same as last time we went you goose

have added this issue as a work in progress to the FAQ also it should be noted PFC's with NEC Processor 78P3 CPU are NOT reflashable only newer, ie: pre 2000ish are reflashable, they have a 78F4 processor and an onboard connector for reflashing

added replacement screen for hand controller added djetro vs ljetro added firmware optins added bnr32 misfire bug added clicking relay problem

the first time i did DATA INIT was when i had datalogit and no one locally had the stock apexi default maps and settings so i thought bugger it, ill save my settings, DATA init and then copy the defaults in case anyone wants them. whilst i was doing the data init i thought to myself is this 30 minute crap necessary? and skipped it and began driving. once i rebooted the car it wouldnt idle and would install instantly. so i had to do it again

http://members.dodo.com.au/paul/manuals/Ap...r_FC_manual.pdf tells you how to preform the idle procedure in english

i was too, and i tried it, let it idle for 30 seconds and skipped the rest. as soon as i rebooted the car and drove it again it would instantly stall after starting. the manual clearly states the 30 minute idle procedure with A/C and demister

if you dont complete the idle learn it wont idle, make sure you have enough fuel and time to complete the idle self learn make sure it idles correct whilst doing the self learn procedure, ie: if its hunting while learning it will be shagged and wont learn make sure you dont drive or rev it while self learning. note you will loose all injector, IGN, INJ, airflow, water temp, correction values. so be sure to note them down if you have diff injectors, cams, airflow meter etc.