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Chris Rogers

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Everything posted by Chris Rogers

  1. too hard (and yes the sarcasm is meant..)
  2. you mean like this: cut that one out about a week and a half ago. thats what 90% of them look like when they try to plonk a timer into an alarm. it DOES NOT look like that now.
  3. kinda pointless anyway. the alarm is probably the one I think and I could probably roll start the car quite easily. leave the timer in there and it will make it a LOT easier for me to hotwire it and piss of with the car. think about what I just said. any car security I do the timer GETS TOSSED. the customer hasa little say in it. I use alarms that will drop 3 or more circuits and are capable of a timer function IF the customer requests it. the ADR is quite correct. that is a defect notice if you get ont eh wrong side of someone. sit with the car for a extra minute - easier and cheaper.
  4. give me the correct part number and I'll look it up. as for prices.. you bought a $90K car (when new) things aren't going to be cheap for it hell some of the bits for my R32 scare me!
  5. same here. funny about those buttons eh been trying to find a sports car rental myself. same idea. tear it down and take a lot of notes. already done the schematic side of it for the local 370 and J32.
  6. the address in my sig is fine. 370Z is a better idea. they are a LOT closer than a J32. that said I would LOVE to see how its been done. especially if it is the same fellow that cut the hell out of a 350Z box to make a DVD fit in the glovebox hole. if somone will toss me a car and a open checkbook I'll do one to factory spec. the key issue that you have though is yours is a single piece. the 370/J32 are two pieces.more to this issue is the connections on the unit you have vs the local one. its ALL different bar the audio out side of things. the later J32 uses DVI the 370z doesn't.. the DVI plug on the J32 is different to what is in the V36. been down this path already with a different nissan.
  7. ok - fixed. I didnt hear anything so I did not know.
  8. not at the moment. quiet season fro the shop so I'm personally watching funds myself. when I have a bit more spare cash I'll start working on it again. I did manage to separate the sump from the engine block last week but thats about it. at some point I'm going to talk to a diff shop and get the actual condtion of the front diff sorted out. stuff that is next to buy: GTR intercooler brackets and plumbing. I have found these bits locally in brisbane and asked the shop in question to hold them for as long as he can. I may get under it with a rag and thinners through the week and do a bit more cleaning.
  9. coo for me. it feels more solid and better built. same idea is probably more correct in your thinking. inside they are very different. if you sit in the rear of a cube you are squashed. sit in the rear of a coo and you can fit easily. I'm 6ft and I can stretch out in the back of it with no issue. Coo is about 5-6" wider as well.
  10. already driven both,measured both ((very similar in size) and stripped the hell out of one. I'm looking at doing a cruise kit for the Coo. its only a matter of time before the Bb comes in behind it. rumour is that there is one already kicking around in brissy waiting for a purple plate.. Coo has more go , feels better and is a more solid car. cube has more rear space though. Coo has blue mood lights as an option. bit trippy in a dark area.
  11. http://www.facebook.com/audioexpress.brisbane and yes I have already started screwing with it in a major way..
  12. probably can help. (IF you still need it.)
  13. I may have a couple of Z11 cubes there that night as well. mate of mine is considering coming along.
  14. check the fuses outside in the panel in the battery area as well. if the light is on then the car should also forget what temp the AC is on and flag a lot more than just the engine light. how did you blow that fuse? as for resetting it. scan tool after you fix that fuse. you *may be able to get away with pulling the battery overnight but last time I treid it still flagged a few things.
  15. so you have booked it with him?
  16. fronts (component) rear (at seats) and thats it. bose used 6x9s as subs. 6.5" all around and who ever does the job will have to make a few things.
  17. yes it did. it was sold and the new owner did not have the funds to operate it. if you are at moorabbin see tower on warrigul rd if you are NE then see stylyn boronia and adam will sort the lot for you.
  18. ok from the top: (quote) turn quote on then turn quote off (/quote) compare that to your mistake
  19. that is literally around the corner from me. I'll walk up there.
  20. ahhh cheers Chris posts should look a bit tidier now. oh and bills, schmills.. ------ fixed. you dropped a / out of the last one. turn quote on then turn quote off
  21. been around a while seriously. (quote) block of txt to quote (/quote) change ( ) to [ ] AND pay your bills first!
  22. it was a bit of a wait. I got word of it sept I think for a job I had to do on it. got the car about jan and then it cleared compliance then I got it late jan/feb. nice toy btw.
  23. its not.. its more the point that most see import drivers as time wasters. now if you simply made a phone call to this guy and asked him if he worked on skylines instead of going and seeing him then you may have a different result.
  24. thats what this place is for - somewhat. good. pay that off first. there are still plenty around. finding a good one in 10 yrs time may prove a bit expensive but by then you will have your head screwed on straight and be able to afford it anyway. same goes with the guys looking for the R32's they are out there just not cheap. the slope does level out trust me on that.
  25. so rohan is essentially saying pay your debts off first THEN save and THEN buy your dream car. I was in your shoes 10 yrs ago. 15k in debt with AGC/GE finance. they were making 25% a month of me until I cried enough and put every cent I had into getting rid of it. you should do the same in my opinion then buy the R34 NUR you want. ($45k btw). pateince is a virtue. in my case (and because I'm capable of it) I tend to build most of my cars now. same idea save and spend my money amd cot the banks. now if you are really savvy and can afford to drive a shitbox for a few years - buy a unit/house clear that , sell it THEN you will have the money to also buy your dream car AND possibly another unit. my 2c on the matter.
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