Chris Rogers

care to clarify??

nah, strip it, that is a dealer fitted one. anything will fit that hold EXCEPT cheap chinese. that won't.

gets it in one. part of the reason two ofthe companies I deal with will not drop their prices. one does more export sales than local and the other teh excat reverse. both are still expensive to deal with.

nah yours can swap out for something local quite easily. grey, you STILL do not get it. you cannot do an external screen in yours.. swap all the panel work out like the one above and you have a chance.

I was standing across from the gold VE when he blasted his siren at a the poeple there. that was when I started walking home. did notice a V35 or two do silly things at the lights on the way out.

all this went into the car today. we ended up swapping more bits out when the changeover was done. car had silver centre panel and silver navi controls/screen. those were swapped for black items. the whole layout looks a LOT better.

perfect if you want to use it as an exchange piece to cover in carbon wrap I take it owen has done his thing already?

rear is a bit more than a gate as well by the look of it. the panels under the lights look bent.

locally I know where a gate,rear bar,reo is. if its structural though then it will top a $10k repair bill as who ever fixes it will have to get a chassis jig out. you should be able to slide uder the rear of it and look at teh frame rails. if they are creased then its probably a write off

another image this was a before shot of a crack in the rear lower drivers side door jam. that crack has now been ground and and shows me where a very quick cut/shut was done on the car. for those that are looking at these cars for a daily or project take note of this. if you see anything like this take a 17mm socket to the seatbelt mount and pull that trim off. you will probably find a sectioned c pillar like I did when I started this project. the up side of this crack is that I have to buy a new rear side for the car and that fixes several rust spots along the way. the inner rear guards , paenl behind the fuel filler (where the filler neck comes through.) and the lower inside wheel arch. this also means that instead of using PART of the new sill panel I get to use all of it.

radio removal guide will be a start. whilst putting up a DIY guide seems like a good idea there are too many things to go wrong if a DIY person breaks something on that radio panel. if you are smart enough to get the radio out then you should be able to split the rest of it

panel for the shifter - not really. that comes straight out. radio panel - plenty of drama. FK that up and you lose your AC system.

no problem.

pay the ticket to proserpine.. cal, an understanding would have helped if you do decide to pull that module them the yellow and violet wires are the OEM actuator drive wires. hook those to the added actuator wiring and remove the added one. a bit of fiddling witll net a result as I cannot remember which way they are meant to go. there will be a thin set of wires - white and black. those control the FACTORY CDL module in the dash (S1,S1.5 - passenger side S2,S3 drivers side.) when you pull that module out make sure the circuit stays intact back to the factory door harness two pin plug. if you acheive that then you can reuse that actuator. IF YOU DO NOT UNDERSTAND WHAT I SAID DO NOT ATTEMPT IT!!

do you understand nissan single wire locking?

further point. I bet I can steal that car in under a minute...

yep someone didn't bother to look at all. they plonked another actuator ofver the top of a perfectly good OEM one.. don't pull the module. it will stuff the CDL system up. they usually need a minor rewire when you remove that box.

they have a install guide on the mongoose website. http://mongoose.com.au/media/229903/60series.pdf that should be yours. programming is not in there. mongoose removed all of that to stop people playing with things they should not be playing with. now: disarm alarm , open door. within 15 sec cycle the key from on to off 4 times , lights will flash 4 times to verify program mode. press the smaller button. siren will chirp twice . you are done. wait for the alarm to exit programming and you are finished.

why hte hell was that NOT removed.... I bet you have an added actuator in the door as well.. that is the dealer fitted remote entry unit. the cut wire was the power feed to it. the whole thing needed to be pulled when the alarm went in. they used that on a lot of cars over the years mainly in the R33 series. I have come across the odd 32 GTR with it fitted but they were rare. take a full shot of the door if its still apart. I want to see what they did when the alarm went in.

shoot me some contact details. there is a bit of logistics involved on my side of things. will explain when I talk to you. ASH, sponsor details when you are ready.

yep! and if noel brings one of his its gonna be a blast (and I probably won't be able to keep up!!)

have spare seat need passenger (I'm offfering btw.)

nth side represent! (see sig for mine.)

the ties were the first thing I bought from wurth. they do a couple of nissan variants and I use them in my daily duties. I have a source for the slide on bolt type as well though they are a mazda item. the proper trim clips will be a nissan only thing. whilst wurth do copies the OEM ones are actually cheaper.

nah he's going to cheap out of it by the look of things. -boz- (username) actually took the time to do it properly. he has the EXACT same setup as you do and his works properly now. as for the $200 job - good luck