Chris Rogers

I have a few items that are not needed in my R32 build: 1 set of R32 alloy guards - decent condition one black one silver - $250 for the set + freight 1 set of NEW inner GTR guards - these were bought locally at $160 each and HAVE NOT BEEN USED - $290 for both. 1 set of GTR front indicators - these are almost pristine. they will not fit my application - $ 80 for both for a local sale and posted for $90. I will trade things for these items. I'm looking for trim pieces and the like. questions - ask away. piccies on request contact details in my sig

line dropped - [email protected]. you have a rought idea of what I am after.

the unit I have is a 2005 spec from a coupe TOTALLY different unit and different data stream out of the thing.

and how did he determine it was broke? what does it do when you try to access it? does your mate have any clue when it comes to car electrics or was he simply reading off the net?

I must be on a different pricing tier to you locally then. I do not pay anywhere near that. as for RHD japan, I deal with nissan japan on a lot of my stuff. shipping is the only issue on BIG stuff as that sits on a boat for 6-8 weeks.

same with mine. though I think it had a fairly rough life overall. yet to peel the guards off mine. drivers is definitely going as the rear lower area is pretty much shot.

yes BUT, the lower sills are 4 pieces. I have bought them and they were that price locally. the window areas are a different matter and I would look at it VERY well before pulling it apart. some things require removing a LOT of stuff (and we are talking sheetmetal here.) to access them. questions , pop past and have a squiz at mine.

If I have done them - Autowatch. If I have done them by customer request - depends - usually autowatch and usually a FULL tamper proof alarm. back in 2007-2009 anything that went via a brisbane RAW was done by me.

yep NATS 5.0 - nothing else. if it WAS there you would have no lights on start up. its a relative thing. there are 3-4 compliance packs for these cars and it depends on which one was used. it was proven in 2009 that the local NATS 5.0 module used was not the same as the V35. some RAWS were nabbed on it some got away. quit being a girl with the stock NATS system in place if you have a key to the car - its gone. at least with the third party item it has a chance of staying put and also complying with your insurance policy (some specialists REQUIRE a oz stds item to be fitted.) I would rather a extra item in my pocket than having to walk.

terry, got it in one!! its called stress relief and the satisfaction that you built it yourself.

nope. if I added a set of floor panels at $3k then it would be a part car. given your thinking on the amount I posted earlier you would still end up with a rust bucket. rust dissolver - not in the case of these cars.

nah I have the later one. what is wrong with yours?

if its DVD or navi based - don't..

thread mine... there is this thing called a bus and a taxi you know. mobile guys won't havet he correct tools to do it correctly

unless you modify one or build an emulator for it.. I know there are some smart people on here show yourselves

I *think* I still haev one. got a piccie of your unit (or a model)

have a few actually. tower in moorabbin or stylyn in boronia or phatt audio in braeside. all can do that car.

pass. if I wanted a convertible I would have kept a varietta for a bit longer. I have a RAW that keeps giving them to me for a few weeks at a time. thats about as long as I can stand them - no space for anything.

and where would I put the seatbelt anchor points ?

full car or half car? if full - how complete is the car?

yep. thats the way it stays for a bit.

R33 is here: http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h191/hakosukajd/R33dim.jpg R34: http://i64.photobucket.com/albums/h191/hakosukajd/R34dim.jpg thats PART of what I am looking for. I still need more and the points that they use to measure from. the diagram is a bit vague to me.

for those that are looking for the chassis domensions: found this:

it's NOT there. someone worked out a way to fudge ADR 82/00 and yours has been done that way. it was later proven by dotars that this was in fact incorrect. so in short - its not there and if you policy calls for one get it fitted. at the very least you should have a black tag hanging off the key. - no tag - its not on the car. regarding the second key: do you have the metal tag with your original key? No? it a trip to nissan for you. they are the only ones that can look it up for you. NOW if you can find someone with a carmen scanner that will actually pull the code out fo the BCM and allow you to program a key to the car. whilst my scanner will program the keys (I have a launch diagun) I still need the immobiliser codes to access it.

after 10 minutes with a angle grinder GENTLY trimming around the brass marked edges of the roof panel - its loose. and its off. side shot. drip rails (top middle of door frame) still need cleaning out. right side shot right side front corner - the goldish line is brass filling. I still have to clean that up so the new panel fits correctly upright shot. this is more for my reference to mark what the panel looks like. note rust spot in top right corner, rust spot as seen from the bottom. this is the reason I pulled this panel off for replacement. it would cost as much to fix it (and have it rust again) as a new panel would cost. so I cut this off off. my aim is to do this once only. removed panel. the worst part about getting this thing off were the areas around the drip rails at in the top middle of the door glass. they are VERY small spot welds and to get them off properly requires a dremel. angle grinder is too heavy for the job. rear drivers quarter is next once I get my panel dimensions book. until then it gets a car cover tossed over it. I will still be working on it but in smaller ways. all the small brackets are going to be bought whilst I wait for this book to arrive.