Chris Rogers

Replacement corner brace. this piece sits between the drivers strut tower and the cowl panel. the right side (this one) is available. the left side ISN'T. I'm going to be very careful pulling the left one off. replacement battery tray and lower inner guard panel (this is the right side one.) they call it hood ledge lower in the parts book. this one is still available as a new part. the left one is 3-4 days behind this one. close up for those collecting part numbers.

yes you could but if you wanted to change radios - that would not work. what I said will work.

use the resistance values for the V35 steering wheel. the FSM is on the net for the G35 and that is the sam thing where the SWC is concerned.

load it with V35 values. that makes interfacing to the deck easier. most of the jap units are 3.5mm input with an external interface for the wheel. and yes I HAVE done it. didnt do a nissan though but a toyota.

whilst I won't disclose my hourly rate I will say it is not far off that amount ($110/hr) . I earn every bit of it and I'm certainly not rolling in money

simon, ta! the new inner guard pieces are on a plane as of now. I have trackng numbers for both and I'll take a few snaps once they arrive. cowl panel is next to buy.

call/go see your local transport agency then. give them the VIN and have them check if its listed or not. if you know the name of the last owner then that will help.

that naem rings a bell wtih me. look up import auto centre. IVS is long gone. why are you looking though? if its been in the national system then you should not have to do anyting.

up to you I would pull the lot my self and write two apps for it. one for the PIC to run everything hardware based and the second to do the display, PC interface to the 'new' controller. getting the cals on the thermistors may be a bit interesting but the rest shouldn't be that bad.

key words - tried.. all fixed now though.

base and top are different between sedan and coupe. this covers all models of skyline. found that myself.

PHATT AUDIO CONCEPTS -> brett 9580 1282 - mention me.

- two real words here. forget about it (sorry 3 words.) the mechanisms are 6.9" screens. they are fully reliant on the DVD rom to operate. the OEM screen is a 3 input SOFTWARE driven screen. when the DVD ROM starts it writes to the screen and sets the input to RGB mode - pressing the TV swith sets it to split mode where the second input is activated and the RGM does the overlays. reverse camera is the 3rd input. all are data driven there is NO physical input of the rear of the screen. as for retro fitting one - up to you I still say no. to do it properly is a harness/cluster swap. non screen cars have nothing there and the cluster will not support the screen if the car did not have it originally.. if you were going to do this my suggestion would be to find the popup mech only and find a suitable LCD screen. whilst you are atit find a suitable touch overlay and set it up as a touch screen

the resulting pile of sheet metal after I hit it with a spotweld cutter. if you are following they left guard is there as well. I took a air saw to that first and removed the majority of it to make accessing the headlight area a bit easier. I only made one mistake on the left side and that was in an area that it will not be seen. drivers side area where the steel guard WAS. the lower riight and top left are overlap spots. lower right has 3 overlapped pieces the top left has 2 overlapped peices. top left was easy to get out. the lower right - a bitch! still have to do the tidyup on this as well. passenger side. no more rough rusted airsaw holes and missing bolts here. panel gone and awaiting removal of the spotweld remnants. Front on showing removed areas. I have a feeling that the left side headlight mount has been replaced at some point as well. spot welds on that side were loose. for those watching- yes those are red GTST guards on it again. tossing up between GTR and GTST front guards. GTR doesnt look in proportion with the rear end of this car. Cowl panel comes out next onceI work out where all the welds are, note the sealant widths and thickeness and work out what font the chassis number is stamped in..

nothing about the product. I'm saying two things for the DIY crowd: you are playing with the main CAN lines on the car. destroy something here and you are really up shit creek as parts get expensive quick. if you don't know what it is - DON'T FK with it. I understand the concept behind the thing. look for the speed address and write another value to the CAN network when a certain point is reached. the issue comes in when it possibly writes to another address and upsets something. the other thing to bear in mind is that this thing maynot suit your ECU. can you back up your findings with ECU part numbers?

RS is not legal here breaks an ADR and makes the car unroadworthy and therefore not insured. as for Oz stds and RS - nup! forget about USDM units - they wont fit the bill either. where are you?

you are playing with the main LAN in the car - good luck also freight from the UK for any reasonable timeframe will be $30-40 AUD.

prices have not moved that much on this stuff. I'm paying slightly less on some of those (bearing in mind I'm sourcing ex osaka and not via a dealer.) good to see I'm not the only one that did a hoodledge frt panel. I'm doing both of mine. anyone know what font the chassis number is stamped in?? my car is done on the old green plate system so the chassis number is used for the car parts side of things and not rego. I need to replace that panel.

left inner steel guard - OUT! now for some tidy up work.

ok front inner steel guard is OUT. starting the other side now. I think I have worked this spotweld bit out finally

and here (see sig) the antenna plug is available also.

have you ever owned or operated a business??

yep but at night they are dead quiet and good places to 'hide' whilst looking at scenery.

maybe..

late night at cootha is a good thing I'm told..