Chris Rogers

in my case I ask the people that stripped the car what was on it. the only external thing that I probably dont have is exhaust. t I know where that went (and its in brissy) so all I have to do is get measurements off it. I do have hte chassis number of the car as well. that can be a starting point IF I can get a mate of mine in osaka to contact MINES.

thanks for that!! I have the forward guard that I cut loose a couple of days ago on the way from osaka with a couple of other pieces $275 AUD for those keeping track. ( I really dont wish to keep track of what I'm spending on this car..) The bad news though is that one of the braces that is in the very back of the engine bay is no longer available. this is the one where the cowl panel meets the top frame in the corner. so I will have to be extra careful when I remove it. should have most of the metal removal done by the end of next week. (too much going on at the shopr for me to work on it.) and funds permitting I'll have the other guard panel on the way shortly after. anyone thats following this and tearing a GTR DOWN I need a few of the white plastic rings that sit in the various holes that the wiring/cooler pipes run through..

most of the controls on the car side of things are stepper based. if you can write an app to control that via a serial port then you are laughing. from memory there are 4 stepper motors , two analog temp sensors (A->D these in the board you make and address accordingly) and the fan relay. most of that can be done with a PIC or AVR and some light hardware to get control of it. dependng on the clarion you have it does spit out all of the touch data in a xx yy format on the CEbus lines. if you can translate that into something useable by a PC then there is your touchscreen display. food for thought.

given most shops charge at $110/hr and it would be a 4-5 hour job out/in/machining and we have no idea what you drive - no real idea. I willl say that most are fair and if you pay nix you will probably get a monkey or two..

nope ballymore. brendale put the rent up as soon as there was interest in the building....

yep its going to take me a bit to do. figure if I do all the panel removal it will work out a bit cheaper when it gets painted and goes back together. shop is directly behind ballymore. gets annoying when they change the parking signs.

take a photo of your build plate and post it up. I'll post the build and trim details from FAST. simple.

box of harnesses arrived today. these are all the interior harnesses of a WGNC34 stagea . ECU came with this lot. the engine harness is still on the engine. the engine is due tomorrow. that still has the auto box and crossmembers attached to it. these are for sale if anyone is interested got a bonus! its been fiddled with by MINES. now I just have to work out what has been done to the engine so it runs properly.

picked this up fairly cheap second hand. it will get a polish and put on once everything else is done. until such time it will hang off a rack like the rest of new bits/pieces.

Bought a $9 spot weld cutter today. best tool I have ever bought!! also bought something called 'weld' paint to reseal the panel once I grind the rest of teh welds off. there is definitely a trick to using this cutter. drill too light and you get no where, too heavy and you punch the panel , too fast and you kill the tool. speed wasn't an issue for me. weight on the panel was! google spot weld removal for a better understanding of what I'm talking about here. I started removing the inner parts of the steel guards. both of these are stuffed in one respect. the drivers side (this image) was subject to a battery fire and has been 'dipped' in battery acid and seriously marked beyond repair. the passenger one someone got carried away with a air saw and cut the crap out of it in two places. this shot shows where I have been cutting the welds. at that point I had killed two drill batteries gotten it 90% out and called it a night. that was 2 hrs of low speed drilling to get to that point. in all I stuffed up and punched through 4 times. a welder will sort this out when it goes back together. top shot showing the bottom area separated from frame rail. the hole was already there and when the new panel goes back in place the hole will too. first shot where I started removing the sealant so I could find the spot welds.. note the right side of the shot. that was the starting point for this panel it got progressively harder after that point. finding some of the welds proved hard as they were under 2-4 mm of sealant in spots 90% cut out. I still have to do the headlight area and once that is done this piece will simply fall out. note top area. that one spot I ended up cutting in two so I could get leverage on that panel. to move it. most of the removal was done with a hammer and BIG flat screwdriver once the spots were cut loose. I will hit all of this with weld paint once I clean up the bare areas and remove the rest of the weld. then its onto the other side

also clarify the word rebuild. engine only , body and engine? body will be expensive to do correctly. the front guards are $1200 each new. the cowl panel is a touch over $800. the inner plastic guards are $190 each. front bumpler $600. I can keep going..

no probelm. keep the A/c on 23/24. that way when it does die you will at least have a comfortable climate to sit in. snow mode = 2nd gear start with the VDC program changed a fraction.

front crossmember? do you have the BOV pipe that runs through the drivers side frame rail?

http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/96-Nissan-Pathfinder-Radio-Cd-Player-_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQhashZitem53e6020a7aQQitemZ360341179002QQptZCarQ5fAudioQ5fVideo they will ship out here as well. have used them in the past.

yank yours out and send it to me and I'll fix it for you.

second one is the better pick. teh first is a cheap knock off and the controller is crap as well.

after 4.5 days of fighting this car: more info HERE!

radio is about to die.. welcome the start of a wonderful relationship .. (do a search you will find it is a common thing along with locks and window motors.) if youcan get it out (or are in brisbane) I fix them.

media controls are there in a V35. they are not there in a V36. cruise - neither car unless I put it there.

just a quick note for those that think this car works like a V35. it doesn't. V35 they deleted the controls only and left the wiring in place. meaning you could plonk the controls on the wheel and away you went. V36 - NOT SO. they deleted the controls AND the wiring. so they WILL NOT work without a LOT of fiddling.

not yet. idea is still the same though. still waiting for someone to toss me a navi based car.

ASH, you forgot a club also need sponsor details when you have them please.

nah - different we have garmin navi, a rear camera and a ipod in this one. I still have to sort a few more things on it before I take a few images and toss it on a truck. the owner did not opt for cruise on it.

USDM DISPLAY NON NAVI BUTTON SET: 28395-JK60B - $550 - new. USDM 6CD RADIO/6CD UNIT 25915-JK64A - market value via ebay. AUDM 370Z 6CD UNIT - NON NAVIGATION 25915-JJ55B - $2k. fixes lang/radio reception issues.

OK: NON NAVI: IPOD DOES WORK!!! I won't disclose what kit it is - but it is doable.