Chris Rogers

find someone with an up to date launch or the like.

not on the ECU. do you know EXACTLY what engine is in the car? gtr is different.

ash, noted. also terry (since th post was pulled) would liek to know a bit more on the cars. especially if its the car I think it is.

also hurling abuse at them wont make a bit fo differnce. they treat their customers like ther employees - crap.

dunno, gievn that thye screwed the franchisees out aof a LOT of money when coporate took them all back over, I dare say that the corporate office has shut that one down as well. I know the rocklea one (mal meninga) went down in a ball of flames that way. when it went franchise they still expected the franchisees to put their daily takings into the SCR account and not their own accounts. (as you are supposed to do.) the staff at the time lost everything - holidays,sickleave - the lot. if its flood related then you may be in for a headache as they *may* turn it into a phone stall in the main shopping centre. cheaper for them and less headache to refit the store. as for your issue. I sell the cyclops units. is your remote the arrow head or a different one? have you changed the batteries? if arrow head - pull the unit apart and give it a GOOD clean. those had a nasty habit of dying due to dirt. (the buttons are mica based and do not conduct after a while.) if all else fails - toss it on a truck and send it down to me. I'll fix it.

why an aftermarket computer? unless you are going to mod the thing I personally would not bother. you have more pressing issues with that box. if its slipping then NO amount of fluid will fix it. you have 3 real options: fix it - $4k for a jatco 4 spd box. sell the car put a GTR manual box in it with rear diff. if you have a RB25 in it already then you have a stagea engine in there. box will bolt to it though I'm uncertain of the electrics if you are going to leave it as an auto. manual will give you less hassles and the autotrans is not reliant on teh engine ECU for control. the staega ECU will run the trans if its a later one. as for suspension - GTR items.

to be honest I know that the Coo is. I do know that one part of the evidence for it will cost you a left nut. (yes its expensive) as for the bring one in and toss it on the road fee - no real idea. toss Coo into the RAWS site and make a call. I know someone was looking at it and looking at doing the Bb at some point.

google nicoclub ..

indeed. funny watching that car spin both wheels when coming up my driveway (karen driving.) that diff has been doen VERY well and once I get to that point in my car he's doing it as well.

yep. and several members with FAST loaded. some with DEC 2010 versions

ok - found that now- $1kish. need a LOT more info on the car though.

you have yet to tell me if you are paying the frieght or not.. if you are serious about it - call me. as for fitting things - how? I have NO idea where you are.

hit the RAWS website. also - its 2005-2008 versions. not the earlier chevy astrovan knock off..

also rukus = corolla runion. corolla base - different top.

yep its true. see also diahatsu coo. same car - different badge. mate of mine has two of them and it was one of them that was used to clear 79/02. one shop has that ADR cleared and the asking price for it is justified. cars with the engine 3VZ-GE (?) are clear to do. I'm waiting for them to become more popular before I start gearing up on them. ( like most that play in the jap markets I have access to a fair bit of stuff.)

no its a complete sub harness and 2-3 modules. usually tied in with some sort of alarm.

ray, give me a call when you have a sec

drop the radio down a slot. as for moving the CC unit- yes you can drop it but mounting the pocket up top will require a bit of creativity.

yep! assuming the worst scenario with a bose stereo. I have one to do in the morning.

I come back with this: BNR32-001045 KBNR32RXFSLMZG color:KH2 BUILD 8908 HICAS/4WD Version: GTR that match what you have?

not to put a damper on things: 90k. now the last one of those cars was built in 94. that is currently 17 yrs (assuming a Jan94 build) so 5300 km/yr as a round number. if that car comes up at a cheap price I would suspect something is amiss with it. if its a genuine example then the owner is going to want a LOT for it. they are becoming collectors items and the japanese are well aware of it. re hicas: see the post a few back. racecars didn't have it the road cars (or every one I have been under) did. once I get mine finished it will have it functioning as well. its not noticeable until you get up to speed and then the car turns in a bit quicker

won't help - seats went off.

if its stating to fail - pull it out and send it up to me. I'll repair it and send it back. once it fails you have NO control over the A/C at all. it will lock on whatever you last had it on OR 24 deg. stacker is not the cause of the dead unit sydrome..

thing being you will find that the 'explosive' device has died. only way I have found to replace it is by having a 2nd hand seat handy and swapping bits out. new seat bases are stupid in price but the only correct way to fix them from new parts.