Chris Rogers

bugger! ( I do a lot of these cars here in brissy) call tower in moorabbin speak to john or chris - mention me. 03 9553 3054

yes but they are cheaper than he was quoted for the correct items that will NOT earn him a defect and void his insurance and they will impress the chicks why would he not buy them... (/sarcasm)

and you live -where?

justin, not really. one of the first vehicles I had was a 1980 chev el camino. that ended up with a mid 80s camaro front end and interior with a silly 383 and a manualised 4spd auto. . took me 4 and a bit years to build and it was definitely a one off car. I'm used to pulling cars down to next to nothing after 20 yrs. this r32 is simply a hobby gone horribly wrong (in a good way) I found out today that I CAN rpelace that top cowl panel (the one with the chassis number stamped into it) so thats one I'm going to take a spotweld cutter to once my japan guy gets back to me on it. anyone who has a wiper panel ( the plastic under the front wipers) that has BOTH sides on it - I would like to hear from you. mine is missing one small bit on the drivers side edge.

never looked. I had marks car for a week last year and it needed fuel. in the past when I have picked them up from RAWS I usualy stick 91 in them and they run fine. the car is smart enough to work out what it is running on and fold back accordingly.

yours runs fine on 95 - trust me.

+1 though mine will vary with workload. I'll schedule a rep run about that time. done. maybe one with a red dingy if timing works out right. would like more details on the sponsor side of it as well. I already sponsor the QLD club and have done so since 2006. shoot me an email or give me a call during biz hours

also check the sunroof drains as one of them comes out in that area.

anyone ever showed you why these are a bad idea with a manual car?? also 2009 will have a minor heart attack if its not shut down correctly. those are electronic diesels and inthe case of teh earlier patrols a timer would quite often LOCK OUT the reserve fuel tank.

p plater + Vspec2 - hope he's got common sense.

get a broker involved. spares - not from the USA japan only on those. engine is an orphan and used only in japan to my knowledge. that said there are a few places that can get bits cheap for them and nissan certainly can help with parts for them. turbo will need doing at some point as well. bear that in mind.

not a bad idea I still want the right piece though. over all I'm spending a fair bit of time on it and to me that looks sort of half done.

Complete sun roof - 200$ included roof trim to suit ---------- I'm looking for a spare. what condidtion is the seal around the glass in? PS lines - condition ? ABS lines -condition?

front of shot before cleaning. I was dong a bit of test fitting with the guards and noting things that were broke on the chassis. the inner guards are sitting in place with 4 bolts (lower radiator supports) left side though has a stud missing that holds the inner guard in place. front on - fire wall. believe it or not - that is 3 white rags that I turned literally black cleaning that off. for the most part the paint simply lifted off with nothing more than thinners, a rag and a little elbow grease.. more cleaning - left side between strut tower and firewall. the ABS pump sits in this spot and as you can see by the rust - it leaked. I have to work out how to fix that with a smooth finish like the beige areas. right side. this isn't as bad. it still has brake fluid marks and rust where the master cylinder leaked and the clutch cylinder leaked but its better in that corner. the lower area where it meets the frame rail - rust there but its only surface rust.

not bad. gives me a few ideas for tweaks on mine. do you still have all of the boot linings?

workshop comes in hand when I need air tools. the last few shots are at home. I store a lot of the car there though as it has pallet racking. thing being with this car - you get to a point where you want to simply put it back to new. I have crossed that point and I'm still going. seems to be somthing in the air up here. plenty of GTRs being redone properly but very few of the 'other' versions. bucharest. ta!

I'll have to get the two side by side. for a pictorial. the update version of mine is close to the GTR part number but its still different. keep an eye out for one if you can

Trivial thing as well. the bonnet catch support is DIFFERENT between my car and a GTR 62550-01U30 - GTS4 62550-08U31 - GTR given that mine now has a GTR front on it that's one bit that wont work with the GTR bumper I *think* that the length from catch to radiator support is shorter on the GTR one. that said I'm looking for a 2nd hand one. its a trivial bit and one that I can strip and paint easily enough. fellow in TMBA mentioned it when I was talking to him about something else. didnt give it a second thought till I started test fitting/hanging things...

to be honest they were rusted on. I ended up cutting them off with a small die grinder.. I took the same approach you did with them initially and thought that the locks had broken (the part where that M6 stud attaches to) and there must be a way to get at them with a socket. NUP! they were all spinning and it was at that point I said FK it and cut the nuts off in a triangle pattern. the whole lot is sitting in a pile of things at the moment desiginated salvage/trash. seeing as you can buy the pieces individually I'll see what I can save of it. all the bushes on mine are pretty much gone.

will do. I have a bit of panel work to sort first on this thing. I'll flick him a message now via the club site. accurate suspension was my other thought. though it would be better for all if I kept it 'in house' I figure P300, had my last car done at fulcrum stafford. decent guys but want to try someone different this time.

think its called 'insanity' actually. doesn't help that I have a quick way to look things up with prices and availablity either I asked for the avaiablility of that cowl panel ( I know what its worth already.) a few minutes ago give it 30 -40 minutes to come back and that will probably go on the list as well PROVIDING I can find a way to legally stamp the jap frame number into it.

Suns out - pressure washer time. the pressure washer took most of the crap off. the rest was done by hand with a LOT of thinners and plenty of rags. this is the left side before I started with thinners front on. the paint was that worn in spots that the thinners raised it and took it away when I wiped it clean. clean vs dirty. if it wasnt for all the paint coming off this would have been fine to leave alone. not the case so it all gets cleaned and a few more bits replaced. I am trying to work out a LEGAL way to replace the panel that has the chassis number stamped into it. there are 3 rust spots in there that concerne me long term. one of them is tucked under a brace on the drivers strut tower and that has eaten through the panel under the brace. I already have a new brace ($25.) so the panel *MAY* be next. clean vs dirty #2.

dealer fitted option you mean. as the car rolled of the line they did not have it. remove it before it strands you somewhere as those usually have some sort of immobiliser tied in with them as well.

if both of us are correct - $75.

thanks for the tip. concern is with the stuff I'm using. the 'rubber' gloves I'm using are not latex but vinyl filled. latex gloves this stuff LOVES to eat. only made the mistake once. this is what I'm using to strip it. http://www.customaut...s/Stripper.html where do you buy these gloves you are talking about?