Chris Rogers

03-8558-1115 option 3 then option 1. that is clarion oz. call them on tues morn and expalin your story. be prepared to back it up with proff you own the deck.

worst part about todays efforts were the rubber gloves. I went through 6 sets trying to get them on my hands..

Roof area after 1 THICK pass of stripper. who ever painted this car (or repaired it for that matter) didnt bother removing the clear coat from the first layer of paint. it was still there. 2nd pass with another THICK coat of stripper. thats 99% done. the drivers side still needs a 3rd hit of the stuff to remove the body filler and paint on that side. one good thing about the second run was that it got down in the rear window channel and cleaned all the residual sealant/paint out. lesson learned on a FRP wing. strip it with something else OTHER than a razor scraper. there are a couple of nicks in it now that I'll have to fill. the stripper itself is fine on the material. it was my method that was flawed.

two ways: original owner or clarion. what model is it?

find an installer capable fof fitting either and you are good to go. autowatch gets my pick though.

intercooler- you had this on your car at some point? if yes - call me.

shane, will you sell small bits n pieces? shoot me an email if you decide to. need a few things for mine.

got boot trim/carpet?

HAR HAR (yes I walked right into that one.)

as a marker to this: 2001-2003 - PN2414/13 - NO visible door on the CD player 2004-2004.5 PN2613/2614 - VISIBLE door on the cd section and the panel has been modified to suit is. if you get a EARLIER unit make sure you get teh panel with it. the later 2613 is teh better unit as it shares teh same chassis as the 350Z item.

are you sure its not the airbag display for the bonnet? off to nissan you go I'm afraid. that is the only real way you are going to get an answer on it.

its a engine difference inthe sedan variants. Im fairly sure I covered it a while back. PV35 - 3.5 LT - sedan HV35 - 3.0LT - sedan V35 -2.5LT - sedan thats what they mean.

thing being with used ones is that the mounts are usually screwed on them. mine were and a few cars I looked at for bits were as well. if you can find a decent set of frames them a trim shop can rework them quite easily. only thing being with these cars as we both know is the youngest one is still 16 yrs old.

not really. it is was running properly then you should not be able to hold your thumb over it. by rights the pressure should push your thumb off the line. opearting pressure should be 35-40PSIG.

two if you count the sock on the pump. the other one is on the strut tower drivers side. when I tore mine down and pulled the pump the sock was FULL of crap and the pump itself was making horrible noises. look at both.

part number is :285A0-AA400 Price - waiting on a reply from japan.

I'm looking for one thatI can drop the front end of my 32 off to for a few weeks and get it fully rebuilt / tidied up. who do you use for yours? bear in mind this is a street car and may only seek the track once or twice. thoughts?

http://www.nicoclub.com/FSM/rb/ give that a burl.

whilst I agree with the above comments... did you get anywhere near the immobiliser. did you undo any bolts that *MAY* have had a terminal on them. (IE ground for the immobiliser) viper and the ilk will lock/unlock doors without an earth attached and yeils a similar effect on the car. start there as I figure its a wire off somewhere.

it is correct actually. the car does not have an actuator in the drivers door from factory. some of the S2 had a dealer fitted keyless system inside the door. that will help with things if the actuator is there. if not you will have to add one. the only connections you will need are power,ground and in some cases IGN and a door wire. the rest of the diagram will come with the unit you buy.

drop the column shround and find the two wires needed to start the car. both will be black with a stripe on the car side of the ign switch. find +12 ( think its white/? on those.) and short them one at a time. one will spin th car over the other will put the IGN lights on.

already thinking that myself. front on it looks ok rear on its a bit out of whack. I'm going to mention it to the body guy and see what he says. extreme worst case I'll do the bonnet,bumper, grill and lose the guards (I still have the originals.) - we'll see. only reason I did it in the first place was to get the i'cooler in the right spot.

yet to try that one. did try a heat gun (as you do with house paint) and tht raises it VERY quickly. only thing with a heat gun is temp. this stuff has a flashpoint and I really do not wish to find it.

R32-BATTERY-HLDR-CAR-PARTS-LST.pdf R32-LINE-HLDR-BRAKE-ENGBAY-CAR.pdf R32-BATTERY-HLDR-CAR.pdf R32-LINE-HLDR-BRAKE-ENGBAY-CAR-PN-LIST.pdf R32-LINE-HLDR-UDR-CAR.pdf R32-LINE-HLDR-UDR-CAR-PN-LIST.pdf R32-LINE-HLDR-UDR-CAR-REAR.pdf R32-LINE-HLDR-UDR-CAR-REAR-PN-LIST.pdf ---------- thats pretty much all of them and I'll tell you that its a 4 figure sum for that list in clips/hoses alone.

I got an email (with excel sheet attached) from my supplier in osaka today. in short I sent a list of clips/clamps/pipes across to him about 3-4 weeks back. of the 60 odd numbers I gave him 8 came back NLA (no longer available) of these 90% are still available and ready to ship out. the rest are due mid JAN and from there I'll have pretty much all the clips that were used in the car originally for those interested see thePDF files in the next post